shizzl Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 what are your thoughts on this flywheel adaptor for holden 3.8 v6's??? do you think itll handle constant revs 4500-6000rpm??? http://www.marks4wd.com/images/products ... 1247-6.JPG http://www.marks4wd.com/images/products ... 1247-7.JPG priced at $395AU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 Interesting.. As long as it's balanced and built as good as a normal flywheel, I see no reason why not. Bolts at least go through it into the crank Cheaper to obtain than a proper flywheel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted July 5, 2010 Author Share Posted July 5, 2010 impossible to find a stock manual flywheel, and would have to get a manual crank with it.. pretty sure it was the autos with the 8 bolt cranks... the adaptor appears to bolt to the stock flex plate by the 3 bolts(more the fact that the flex plate bolts to the flywheel i guess just for the use of the ring gear?), then the flywheel must bolt to the crank... i suppose the flex plate shouldnt let go should it....although it is a holden part Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted July 5, 2010 Author Share Posted July 5, 2010 only thing that really worries me is the 2 of them bolt to the crank (sandwich effect)... engine revving/vibrations etc would possibly cause the bolts to loosen?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 Pretty sure there's aftermarket 8 bolt flywheels, factory are 6 bolt or something.. Guess this is just the same deal, Flexplate should be sweet, flywheel will hold it together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 there are 6 bolt auto and manual in the series 1 V6's - although I reckon that flywheel/flexplate combo will work sweet - would definitely use ARP bolts to give yourself piece of mind... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 alternatively get a series 2 flywheel redrilled to suit the series 1 auto crank.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted July 5, 2010 Author Share Posted July 5, 2010 its finding the flywheels thats the issue.. im sure 99% of all commonwhores were autos.. local ones from the likes of HRP are $695 ish... keen to run a late model motor with the water outlet at the front...vt? i think... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 I can't say like it as a solution, and it's going to make the engine rev up somewhat slower as it's like having a heavier flywheel. that aside if it's balanced it can be OK. My flatmate has a LS2 powered landcruiser using one of the marks adaptor kits to bolt it to the toyota manual box and it goes to 7000rpm ok so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted July 5, 2010 Author Share Posted July 5, 2010 thats the best news yet testament!!! knowing of someone who has used their products and hasnt died yet.. heavier flywheel may actually be ok, as it wont let the engine bog down rapidly from high rpm yeah? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 ^^^ true - but when it does bog down it will take longer to get back up there again.. Being on a stockcar, wouldn't you want the revs up top a lot and if that was the case I feel a lighter flywheel would be better.. but I ain't 100% sure on the science of that.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 ^^^ true - but when it does bog down it will take longer to get back up there again..Being on a stockcar, wouldn't you want the revs up top a lot and if that was the case I feel a lighter flywheel would be better.. but I ain't 100% sure on the science of that.. im pretty sure drift type flywheels are pretty heavy to keep inertia ... but like you says once it loses it, its takes longer to get back up there . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 I don't think a heavier flywheel would offer any advantage what so ever. Flywheels are only so heavy to smooth the power delivery, make it a little easier to pull off from stand still and to keep momentum up when going up hills. None of the above really apply to spirited driving. A car with a heavy flywheel generally feels laggy almost and has a very delayed response to throttle actuation. Heaps of people said not to lighten my flywheel too much because of all of the above but I went as light as I could and honestly, it is perfectly fine to drive. I actually like the engine being so responsive in both directions. And if your motor has enough torque, even hills wouldn't be a problem anyway. What I would do if I were in your shoes, is get someone like this to machine up a custom billet flywheel. Its not much more expensive (if any) and offers a lot of advantages. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 189621.htm I looked into all of these recently for a similar conversion on an auto Opel straight 6 and this was the conclusion I came to with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 I wouldn't get too carried away too quickly - not 100% sure if the ls2 to H55 kit used the same style thing. also some of the other aspects of the kit were a bit mung e.g. the engine mounts didnt work and he had to make his own, and they sold him a modified sump that still fouled on stuff (regardless of which engine mounts were used). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dell'orto Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 What I would do if I were in your shoes, is get someone like this to machine up a custom billet flywheel. Its not much more expensive (if any) and offers a lot of advantages. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 189621.htm I looked into all of these recently for a similar conversion on an auto Opel straight 6 and this was the conclusion I came to with that. I had one made up for my motor, was $500+ gst, same thickness as a stock flywheel but weighs 5kg. Only problem is they need a flywheel to work from, though if the only difference is the bolt pattern then they ought to be able to work out the correct PCD of the bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R100 Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 keen to run a late model motor with the water outlet at the front...vt? i think... VP onwards. Its only the VN that ran the water outlet from the rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 What I would do if I were in your shoes, is get someone like this to machine up a custom billet flywheel. Its not much more expensive (if any) and offers a lot of advantages. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 189621.htm I looked into all of these recently for a similar conversion on an auto Opel straight 6 and this was the conclusion I came to with that. I had one made up for my motor, was $500+ gst, same thickness as a stock flywheel but weighs 5kg. Only problem is they need a flywheel to work from, though if the only difference is the bolt pattern then they ought to be able to work out the correct PCD of the bolts. They'd be able to make it up from the auto ring gear and what ever clutch kit you wanted to use I'd say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted July 5, 2010 Author Share Posted July 5, 2010 hmmmm....may be better off to build a mean straight 6 hemi and get a new firewall and bellhousing made for the hq box.. either way i wanna be able to change the clutch withoput the 3 hour job of pulling the motor out again.. fucking bellhousing is welded to the firewall!! gggrrrrrrrrr.. been having major clutch issues...as in it doesnt work at all.. from what ive heard the jeep cherokee 4l is the same bh pattern as the 245 hemi.... but id still like something thats easy to locate a replacement with like the 3.8 v6...and being a nice short engine it gives be a crap load of room for a good radiator and fan set up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 the AMC 4.0 is pretty reliable but quite heavy. probably alot more available than the old hemi 6 now from wrecked cherokees/grand cherokees. Dunno how the head compares to the hemi, probably not as good. 190hp in the High Output versions with 8:1 compression or something like that. The 265 Hemi was what, 225hp? wouldnt it be easier to just build a new firewall/get a new bellhousing and keep the 3.8v6 setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted July 5, 2010 Author Share Posted July 5, 2010 well ive got a 245 hemi 6 in it now..but i dont think she sounds too healthy,smoke exits from the rocker breather when you rev it.., and the clutch is giving me the shits, the plate is fine, pressure plate appears ok....just doesnt work the cheap jerky 4l would be ok if it could source one fukn cheap so i can compare it to the hemi.. obviously the jeeps head would come off for a bit of a skim for get some compression into it... but then ill still have to sort out the clutch with the 3.8 id have to fit a new firewall, bellhousing,clutch set up, y pipe (cos twin pipes sounds gay) and get the loom converted...but then it would be semi reliable but easy to replace a broken donk.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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