Cazza Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 okay fast losing paitience with the escort. Keep blowing manifold gaskets at great pace. averaging 1 every month-2mths tops. Always seems to be the 4th that blows first. have had both heads re-planed, have tried different seals/ sealers/ etc. I always remember to tighten the bolts bit futher while engine is hot/after getting engine hot for first time after putting in new gasket etc... Last time i even gave up and coughed out $70 for the mechanic to do it (just in case its me doing something wrong!) but its done it again. suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 Both heads re-planed? Is this the exhaust gasket you are having trouble with and are you still using a cast exhaust manifold or extrators (assumes this is a cross-flow motor)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cazza Posted April 6, 2010 Author Share Posted April 6, 2010 yes exhaust gasket. i got a new manifold late last year as old one had multiple cracks, have had the face of that planed and also the engine block side planed as well (mission!) yes crossflow with cast manifold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 Machining the head and manifold faces was a good move. If the head has had the exhaust ports enlarged you will always have issues. I would check three things: 1) If you are using the silver composite Repco supplied gaskets then place the gasket over the head and ensure that the gasket inner edge is not shrouding the exhaust port. If it is you can dremmel out the gasket to avoid a hot spot. 2) Check to esure that none of the exhaust manifold studs are sitting proud. The shoulder of a stud could possibly be fouling the manifold on #4 and stopping it from tightening up properly. If you are using bolts rather than studs then check that they are not too long. 3) Check your ehaust mounts. No bracket up the front of the ehaust system (near to the firewall) can place a fair bit of load on the manifold as it effectively needs to carry most of the exhaust system weight on the manifold studs which will force the manifold downwards on #4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 You aren't running twin side draughts are you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 got a flexi in it? are you using any gasket sealer on the gasket?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 you should actually in theory run the exhasut manifold gaskets dry. no sealer. they're made of out crushable shit for a reason. the only tiem I've put sealer on exhaust manifold shit was on mark's starion one time. I didn't have a new gasket to mount the turbo I did a lego job on, and thought it'd help thing. it jsut burnt away within like 10 minutes. ALl other times I've never had any leaks or anything. I reckon make sure the exhaust is fastened to the bellhousing at the bottom of the first bend as jason said. also, do a test fit with no gasket to make sure it's getting tight on the head face without a gasket, again as jason said, to check that you're not running out of depth. use studs with good split washers where possible. maybe add a flexi just after the aforementioned bracket. I think my bro's old mk1 ran a bracket at the bottom of the headers. no flexi. exhasut was set up nicely on the mounts (none of the rubebr mounts were 'loaded up' when static) which gave sufficient movement. his used to leak at the flange at bottom of headers sometimes if they took a hit when he was going across paddocks when shooting or if he hit a rock or similar on a gravel road when getting from point a to point b in a swift manner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 Pinto time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 i do on average 2 manifolds jobs each week, sometimes 3.. mainly due to broken studs.. but quite often the lower mount isnt done up, or the studs are loose, or theyv hit something.. and if its none of them its because they dont have a front mount and no flexi.. 99% of all manifold jobs i need to plane the manifolds because they warp.. and depending on the gasket material i use proper industry sealer, not that maniseal shit found at repco...applied in some instances not all... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UTERUS Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 loctite in the head studs? Pinto? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 yea that maniseal is good for nothing! a good sealer like 3bond works fine on exhausts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 the shit we use doesnt set like concrete...it stays semi soft and doesnt blow out.. ill have to get the name of it tomorrow.. ive found nissans are the worst for popping studs, and toyotas blow the gaskets aswell as crack the front pipes... ive learnt a sweet trick to removing broken studs without using a drill and easy outs, so fucking quick and easy i cant believe i never thought of doing it before, although id never had to replace broken head studs before..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 ive learnt a sweet trick to removing broken studs without using a drill and easy outs, so fucking quick and easy i cant believe i never thought of doing it before, although id never had to replace broken head studs before..... go on.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 ive learnt a sweet trick to removing broken studs without using a drill and easy outs, so fucking quick and easy i cant believe i never thought of doing it before, although id never had to replace broken head studs before..... go on.... tack tack tack .................tack tack grab with vicys and undo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 grab ya self a welder,( i have the mig set to 3/4 power) zap the centre of the broken stud, keep zapping (spot welding onto the weld)to make the end of the weld come out from the head,(your basically trying to make a new stud out of mig wire ) find a large nut and hold it over the slug of weld with some long nose pliers, then continue pulling the weld out from the head(yes, you will have to aim inside the nut), it will eventually weld to the nut, give the nut a couple of taps with a spanner/hammer or neighbours cat, let it cool down or spray something on it if your impatient like me... then slowly ease the stud out by undoing it, you might have to work it back and forwards a bit like tapping a thread or your mum... you might break a few nuts off but itll come out eventually, just keep putting nuts on and working the bitch.. generally if you arent waving the torch all over the show you wont do any damage to the head regardless if its cast iron or alloy... also works on flange studs... enjoy... could be usefull in tech archives if anyone thinks its relevant.. peace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cazza Posted April 6, 2010 Author Share Posted April 6, 2010 i replaced all the studs 2 gasket changes ago..and installed flexi and had exhaust rehung to avoid excessive downpull force on #4 ..so yeap ive tried all those!! okaaaaay so im guessing my next option is to try the no sealer/ your recommended sealer then! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusted Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 Then add Chem-weld aka JB Weld, when you have truely at wits end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UTERUS Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 Where exactly does it leak from, do you have a pic of a previously toast gasket. If not, i will allow you to ms paint a picaso type rendition in 1/3rd scale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 weld the manifold to the head... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 Brace your exhaust to your bellhousing, it can make a huge difference. I had issues with an older set of extractors on my old van that kept snapping within an inch of number 4 port, I added a fairly heavy brace to the bellhousing which cured the problem. I also had the same prob as you with blowing the gasket at number 4 with brand new extractors, again a brace solved the problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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