nothingsfree Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 All this talk bout POR15 not sticking to smooth metal has brought up a question for me... Iv got a Rx7 subframe getting sandblasted at the mo, will POR stick straight to a sandblasted surface, or is there something else I need to use. Or any other procedure youd recommend? Needs to be hard wearing, and not too expensive, its only a subframe after all... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 from the documentation I read if you prep it properly per instructions with metal ready it should be ok - but I've only done the metal ready so far on the 131, haven't painted any por15 on yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 You genreally need an etch primmer with all bare metal surfaces.. Even if its smooth as fuck an etch primer will sort you out. I wouldnt be surprised if POR1 is a type of etching primmer. Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 depends on the grade of media they use, itl stick to a coarse blasted surface, but if they use a fine media it will still bond but not as well, if the surface of the steel feels like a sheet of 320grit sand paper then your good to go tbh id just use crc black zinc cus im a tight cunt and it seems to do the job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke36 Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 i used por15 on my diff housing and my control arms scoured the fuck out of both and it worked well on my arms but it has chipped off in a few places on the diff like people have said it does sandblasting should be sweet for it to key into, best ur guna get id say Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock-Lee Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 I had a paint stripped sump and I used metal ready and it has stuck fucken hard to the sump which was almost perfectly smooth. I dropped it onto an anvil the other day and it dented the sump but didnt chip the paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick_m Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 I used por 15 straight onto sandblasted suspension bits, worked sweet. Just try not to get your oily fingers all over it But you'll be sweet with sandblasted components. The main thing to remember with POR 15 is you can't use solvent based anything near it or it won't stick. The metal etch they supply is water based for that reason. Its can also brush on with relatively good results (not show quality but fine for under car etc) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 general rule I use with por 15 is the shittier the surface the better it adheres - Ive seen it put onto freshly stamped hot rod chassis rails and it peels off in sheets after a year or two.. sandblasted surfaces should be ideal for POR15 adhesion.. use the UV resistant shit if the paint is going to be exposed to sunlight.. also after opeing tin make sure you put a film of gladwrap between the tin and lid when you close it - will stop it forming a skin and going off. 2nd also - don't get it on your skin - it will only wear off over a few weeks - its near impossible to clean off.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nothingsfree Posted January 14, 2010 Author Share Posted January 14, 2010 Sweet, yeah its an industrial sandblaster doing the work, so imagine itl be good an rough. How much is that POR metal prep? Is it worth cleaning it down with that first, or will something like meths be fine to wipe it down with before painting? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 hot water and a salt free detergent is the go for por15 isnt it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 I used the metalprep and it seemed to work real well - think its $30 for a 500ml spray bottle of it.. don't quote me on that though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 its got some phosphor/zinc shit in it - seems to work pretty good, bits of the 131 I treated with that months ago and still baremetal/no rust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nothingsfree Posted January 15, 2010 Author Share Posted January 15, 2010 Nice, sounds good to me. I take it a 500ml bottle will go pretty far? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 Nice, sounds good to me. I take it a 500ml bottle will go pretty far? heaps far brew.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 Nice, sounds good to me. I take it a 500ml bottle will go pretty far? heaps far brew.. And its reusable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nothingsfree Posted January 15, 2010 Author Share Posted January 15, 2010 Nice, sounds good to me. I take it a 500ml bottle will go pretty far? heaps far brew.. And its reusable Explain? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 Any leftovers just pour back into the bottle (filter any shit out) and its good to go again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 Sweet, yeah its an industrial sandblaster doing the work, so imagine itl be good an rough.How much is that POR metal prep? Is it worth cleaning it down with that first, or will something like meths be fine to wipe it down with before painting? Cheers 'POR15' is a whole system, for best results use it for the whole job. 1, marine clean to clean it 2, metal ready to etch/etc the metal 3, paint with por15 Whereever you buy it from should be able to supply you all the info sheets as to how to use it. Its good stuff, just has to be done right otherwise don't waste your time using it. Its all I use now, have done a whole floor with it, and it looked like new 1-2 years on. (then sold it) All 3 stages of the job are about as thin as water, so coverage is huge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 Sweet, yeah its an industrial sandblaster doing the work, so imagine itl be good an rough.How much is that POR metal prep? Is it worth cleaning it down with that first, or will something like meths be fine to wipe it down with before painting? Cheers 'POR15' is a whole system, for best results use it for the whole job. 1, marine clean to clean it 2, metal ready to etch/etc the metal 3, paint with por15 Whereever you buy it from should be able to supply you all the info sheets as to how to use it. Its good stuff, just has to be done right otherwise don't waste your time using it. Its all I use now, have done a whole floor with it, and it looked like new 1-2 years on. (then sold it) All 3 stages of the job are about as thin as water, so coverage is huge. Ditto Use gloves too, dunno whats in that shit but the place i get it from has a big sign saying 'Please take a data sheet if buying POR15 products'. Oh and the proper mask (i just set up a fan blowing towards my head last time but will get proper safety shit next time). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 i helped rebuild a tr6 a few years ago and the frame was sandblasted on that we just wire wheeled it and the por15 and it stuck like shit to a blanket. dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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