Simon Posted April 1, 2010 Author Share Posted April 1, 2010 Just out of curiosity doesn't that coilover need another ring/nut on the threaded tube to lock the one that the spring sits on? Good spotting. But actually they have an nice little allan key screw that tightens them up tight. They are also a very coarse thread. Which is also good for fast adjustment. I do have another two if the cert man doesn't like that but it's much better than locking two together if you ask me. Much more grip area. Thanking Bubzgoose profusely for those nuts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 What's the chassis rail height in those pics? ... They are going to be some super short shocks. Is the insert spaced up to the top of the strut or has he shortened it as much as possible? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted April 2, 2010 Author Share Posted April 2, 2010 What's the chassis rail height in those pics? ... They are going to be some super short shocks. Is the insert spaced up to the top of the strut or has he shortened it as much as possible? Yep the shock body has been spaced up about 30mm. So will biff the spacer and shorten them as much as possible. May even try get him to weld them back on with a bit of camber to offset the difference from using MX73 struts. Will have to see how he feels about that though. Its about 55mm from front chassis rails in those pics which are lower than the sump and cross member. I want to find some RCA's. CBF making them but will if I have to. Also want a set of standard 14 or 15" wheels to put on it. I had to give the cressida ones back. My standard 13's don't go over the brake calipers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted April 4, 2010 Share Posted April 4, 2010 keen for in on the 225 40 r14 deals! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted April 4, 2010 Author Share Posted April 4, 2010 keen for in on the 225 40 r14 deals! Sweet, do you want me to ask him if it will be cheaper for 8 tyres? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted April 4, 2010 Share Posted April 4, 2010 yeh man. ask if will do a sweet deal for 10, keen for 6, for obvious reasons . would have to sus out getting them up to whangarei tho will create some new fitment issues. but guess it'l make cert man happy and the car move in forward direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Calico Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 hey Si, where'd you get the cusco top hats from? b.new or mates/deals? on sale on 41.co.nz for a pricey $437+ship... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted April 11, 2010 Author Share Posted April 11, 2010 hey Si,where'd you get the cusco top hats from? b.new or mates/deals? on sale on 41.co.nz for a pricey $437+ship... Shit!! I bought them off trademe for $55 They don't fit the holes in the strut tower. Just drilled more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted April 11, 2010 Share Posted April 11, 2010 You can still get carina/corona/celica ones brand new, I got a set second hand from Japan for $100 or so a while ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Calico Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 You can still get carina/corona/celica ones brand new, I got a set second hand from Japan for $100 or so a while ago. yea that site has them (cusco ones) for old odd models like ours too. so fuckin' expensive though. $100 would be mint Shit!! I bought them off trademe for $55 They don't fit the holes in the strut tower. Just drilled more. $55 be even better.. if bolt spacing was correct too.. Didnt Markku say a little while back (in this very thread actually?) that re-drilling the holes isn't a good idea? does/would he (Markku) know if the HSD AE86 coilovers will fit my gx61 with little modification?? Offset RCA's? some info I've found, from club K.. guessing some of it applies?? maybe pointing to a 'no' regarding ae86 Coilovers in x61..? ke70 wagon brakes are 9" and so are ae86. so going to ae86 with vented disks will improve fade and performance but wont do too much for stopping quicker to go into some ideas read further depends which struts you have.. theres two main types of ke70 strut. the later ones are interchangeable with ae86 brakes.. the earlier ones are like ke30 struts and aren't. ke30 and early ke70 = 87mm bolt spacing at bottom of strut late ke70, te71, ae85, ae86 = 85 bolt spacing. another difference between the strut is the spacing of the wheel bearings. the 85mm type have bearings wider apart and the hub/disk bolts are from the back rather than from the front. so yes hubs are different too which is why ae86 vented disk wont fit the early hubs. probly find the backing plate bolt pattern is different too. if you have later ke70 strut and want to swap to ae86 brakes. you'll need the calipers, caliper mounts, splash shield and disk. the disks at least can be bought new. in my ke70 ive used ma45 celica/supra struts which have 10" solid disk and bolt up to the 85mm steering arms. it adds to the track width but gives a little bit more positive camber.. add to that tt132 or ke30 lower arms and brings the track out more which puts the camber out to neg 1 degree at around 2" lower than stock (roughly). find some suitable springs and short stroke shocks (ae92GT) for it and if you can get all that on the cheap then its worth it. i happened to flat spot my front tyres at 160k down the back straight of the old taupo track on this setup so they definately work ok over std brakes. they get hot reasonably quick on the track though. you wont be able to run decent rwd offset rims without flares doing this combination tho. (15x7 0p). 15x7 +13 fits nice. Prepared to make my own aswell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted April 14, 2010 Author Share Posted April 14, 2010 Oh man, If I were to do it again I would definitely buy some and do a little modification rather than build them. Took my man a long time and if I were paying it would have been nearly as much as new ones. Markku doesn't know shit. Lol ok, he does... But nothing wrong with re drilling the top hat holes. I wouldn't slot them though. So mount them 180 degrees out. You could just get AE86 steering arm things and bolt them to your ball joint. Then the base of the strut would bolt up. Then just re drill the strut tower holes or buy some top hats that fit and sell the 86 ones... Buying new top hats would be the better option. I'm pretty sure the rear will all bolt up no problems but I don't know. I'm not running coil overs in the rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Calico Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 true..?? making them doesnt look that bad? found a mean guide on the net of a guy donig it to (ae86?) old toyota shocks, cant remember where i found it. He just cut off old sprind mount, cut the shock in half there, took 20mm off either end from that (not the ends, to keep top thread etc) , had good reason for this, eliminating the need for a sapcer at the bottom of the shock, when using ae92 inserts. (he was clued up on the reasons for what he did with diagrams etc to explain) and welded on the sleeves. bobs your uncie... even used alloy sleeves, used a skilled welder friend for this though.... wouldnt ae86 steering arms pull/or push them out though? (change the geometry) ae86 rears do go straight in. wow it'd get expensive quick.... new coilovers, new tophats to replace new tophats, custom rca's or new lower arms.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted April 14, 2010 Author Share Posted April 14, 2010 true..??making them doesnt look that bad? found a mean guide on the net of a guy donig it to (ae86?) old toyota shocks, cant remember where i found it. He just cut off old sprind mount, cut the shock in half there, took 20mm off either end from that (not the ends, to keep top thread etc) , had good reason for this, eliminating the need for a sapcer at the bottom of the shock, when using ae92 inserts. (he was clued up on the reasons for what he did with diagrams etc to explain) and welded on the sleeves. bobs your uncie... even used alloy sleeves, used a skilled welder friend for this though.... wouldnt ae86 steering arms pull/or push them out though? (change the geometry) ae86 rears do go straight in. wow it'd get expensive quick.... new coilovers, new tophats to replace new tophats, custom rca's or new lower arms.... Nah, mine have been made to keep the strut case all one piece. No cuts / welds in the case at all other than welding the threaded sleeve on the outside. He then turned the thread into the case for the shock nut. Also it's better to have a spacer and shorten the case just enough for you to get the right amount of travel. In NZ we have to have bumpstops to pass a cert (even though my car will never get on them because the springs are so hard). But the cert man is going to make sure the car hits the bumpstops before the wheels hit the guards or the cross member hits the ground etc no matter how hard the springs are. If the case is really short, you will have to have a super long bumpstop and thats gay. Also if the case is real short the top support of the shock shaft by the seals is further away from the top of the shaft. Giving it more leverage and ruining seals quicker. Nope, 86 steering arms will bolt on and keep the same geometry. You will need a wheel alignment maybe. But you will need that anyway. Yep shits expensive when you do it properly. So is getting fines and or killing people in an unsafe car. If I were you I would do this. Buy new 86 coilovers. See if you can get them minus the top hats. Buy top hats to suit your car. Get a pair of 86 steering arms. Or any car that has the smaller bolt spacing. BOLT THAT SHIT IN! Mush nicer when things are bolt in. And cert man will be much happier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 Markku doesn't know shit. Churr! Don't think I said that though - I've recommended re-drilling to others in the past . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Calico Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 Markku doesn't know shit. Churr! Don't think I said that though - I've recommended re-drilling to others in the past . lol sorry Markku ,your right it was a small comment directly above one of yours Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Calico Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 Hey man, which ones would be better to use? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 228096.htm (w/out stub ax) http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 228096.htm (with stub ax) and think this is me ha ha... http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 083289.htm Any Progress on C'rona es'say? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted July 3, 2010 Author Share Posted July 3, 2010 You linked the same auction lol But i'm guessing the ones with stubs are a lot more expensive? If so just get the ones without and then get some place to weld your ones on. Easy as pie. Haha yeah, I'v been watching that W58. As far as corona progress Ill hint that I'll need a W series box for a rather wide motor coming from Japan. Also the tyres that were supposed to be here are going to be another 3-4 months away. And it's only two coming. Gah, so annoying but they going to be cheap so wont complain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted September 4, 2010 Author Share Posted September 4, 2010 Some of you may have followed the diff thread I started with wild ideas on swapping diff heads. G head into T housing is never going to happen after having a proper look today. F into T looks like it would work but too much mucking round for gay ratios. So looks like I will be shortening a G series or cutting the middle out and putting it in my T series. Diff conversions are gay. Would rather do an engine haha. Turns out the G series diff I bought is probably not even 3.7 but 4.something. Will have to calculate it but I can't be bothered at the moment. Came from an 1989 LN61 2WD diesel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted September 6, 2010 Share Posted September 6, 2010 Still reckon you're better off just keeping an eagle eye out for a factory corona/celica/carina F series live axle. So much less mucking around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted September 7, 2010 Share Posted September 7, 2010 slap some irsesings up in there earthquake put the poos up me and made me start doing some work on sunday, im still slacking and im already onto remaking my floor pan/tiding it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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