Vintage Grumble Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 Watch out, they will make you fit a $2 shop pirate flag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 Mines fraying quite nicely now. Its that salty Ohope air that does it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyfive Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 Yay arrgh I'm a pirate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 TBH, I took mine off the instant you guys left, the shame was just too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 Well youre no fun Mr grumpy britches Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 So its in the panel place this morning getting some steel hot-glued to the floor. Looking forward to the results tomorrow. On a side note, how do you change CV's on a live axle? Wonder how much they cost too. Need a pair of fronts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanfels Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 CVs on a live axle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 This is a cv from the front axle of a hilux, its a solid front, so guess it would be called a live axle? I see no problem here? This may come in handy when/if you go to do it Benny wenny: http://www.hilux4x4.co.za/simon/overhau ... /index.php Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 CVs on a live axle? Birfield joint? Lol at Thomas. Im reading that exact article now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/toyota/diffs-axles/auction-423426753.htm LSD duff 4 cheep and its lowcal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 air locker plz. also cv kits (migth as well do bearings too) can be had through various sources. if you're keen as a bean for some I can get a joker at work to source some for you. he's a bit of a 4x4 guru (and he's kicking himself for not buying this before you did hah). seems to be doign a fair few landbruiser front end bits at the moment which are surprisingly cheap IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 CUNT! Not you cam. Electrical things. Charge light back on after a cold start. Im thinking fucked diodes in the alternator. I get a 12v DC output and a 35v AC output from the alt battery terminal. No idea if thats normal or not since i dont own any other externally regulated stz. Chur for parts offer, will be looking at rebuilding the front axle after Christmas. Until then ill put up with a bit of clunking and massive amounts of diff oil leakage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 ballah. i doubt anything will break, unless you're all super mega off road rough cunt spec, in the mean time also, my criz has/does give me all sorts of electrical faggotry regarding the alternator and regulator. still haven't got to the bottom of it with multiple units, new parts, checking of wiring, and rebuilding and triple checking of alternators. they're essentially the same bits. i used shit off my dad's old rn41 one time to get me to welly and back hah. the only reason i haven't (yet) updated to a generic internally regulated alternator is because my car doesn't have a charge light, instead it uses an ammeter. once I can be bothered fettling the wiring to keep this setup i'll be using a much better alternator. I would suggest you do similar as the whole setup on these is just outdated old muck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 also slam me a bell if/when you're ken for front end steez. mint. also slam a chinky airlocker in the back for max win. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 also slam me a bell if/when you're ken for front end steez. mint. also slam a chinky airlocker in the back for max win. Bell would rage with jealousy if i slammed an air locker and mud 33's on that thing. Will re-do the alternator to battery wiring tomorrow as its all corroded and not up to my standards. Then i can look at ripping the alternator off and changing things. The regulator is much better than the old one so at least i AM making improvements. Also the tacho, temp and fuel gauges are all piss poor inaccurate lumps of excrement. Im hoping this is to do with wonky voltage issues. Even the stereo which is also a lump of excrement seems to be taking offence yet battery voltage is above 11 so i would expect it to run better than it does. With dwell and injector dead time compensation, the wagon will idle smooth right down to 9v Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/toyota/diffs-axles/auction-423426753.htmLSD duff 4 cheep and its lowcal I R bidding on that. Hope it fits. EDIT: Also, just went for a bit of a ride round town in the tray, key bangers are this things forte. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 key bangers are this things forte. QFT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 Ok ive been poking this thing all morning and im still fucking mystified. Took the alternator off and attempted to strip it down, 2 of the casing bolts were solid i didnt get any further than that. Put it back together and still wouldnt charge. So i got the multi-meter out and prodded various things. Was checking for good grounds and such. I was fumbling with some wires when i heard a click, so i tried starting it and it charged great. I re-fucked around with those wires hoping to get it to die again but no luck. Of the 3 terminals on the back of the alternator labeled E, N and F, the F terminal receives voltage from the regulator as you would expect to energize the windings. The N terminal im assuming is the ground for the windings which the regulator uses to control voltage output, this was showing about 6volts when it was charging. The E terminal doesnt really seem to do anything at all - doesnt make a difference if its connected or not. I dont think its a diode problem anymore since the alternator is clearly capable of producing a good output. Also diodes dont generally tend to fix themselves overnight. It cant be a regulator problem since ive tried 2 of them now. My thoughts are a dodgy relay or wiring problem somewhere but fuck knows where. When it wasnt charging, you could unplug the regulator with no noises or any reaction. After it started charging again, there was definitely current flowing to/through the reg as unplugging resulted in a little arc in the plug contacts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
governorsam Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 f is field e is earth n is relay control bit, 6v is fine. unplug 3pin plug, put 12v "+" to "F" and that will bypass reg. start up, not reving too much, check voltage at batt. should be 13.8v and upwards as you rev it more. not too much, as the reg has been bypassed. go over 15 volts, you will start blowing bulbs and boiling batterys. if all good, turn everything electrical on full - wipers, lights on hi-beam, heater, etc. run above test again, this will load test alt, wiring and belt slippage. put volt meter between batt "+" and alt"+" under full electrical load, and rev up a bit. no more than 0.5v same from batt "-" and alternator body. report back findings when done. go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 Edited title for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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