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l20b fouling plugs


Brock-Lee

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yuh, but with these same plugs in it it was running perfectly, then suddenly it wasnt, I wanna figure out what caused the problem.
Start a tech thread and I will do what I can to help

To clarify, It was running perfectly and then overnight it ran like a bag of sweaty ass.

I replaced a perished section of fuel hose and cleaned out the carb. Replaced the cap rotor condensor plugs and leads.

Checked the timing and compression. Checked the points gap, had to file a "lump" off one of the contact pads with a points file and then reset the gap to factory settings between 18-25 thou.

Car ran perfectly for about a week then it gradually got worse and worse till the point where it was undriveable again.

Now I have to clean off the plugs(using a wire brush) before it will run and within 200m of driving it has returned to running like poo again.

Help would be greatly appreciated

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also, screw the idle enrichment needle right out, and take it off the carb (just be careful not to lose the spring if it has one). I could never get the 124 to idle worth a damn and had some similar fouling issues when I had the original solex carb on it - i took the needle out and found it was bent! heck knows how it happened. Then I put a weber on it off one of my 2L motors and now it goes sweet/idles/starts easy enough.

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Does it foul the same plugs over and over - ie number 5 mainly and number 1 or 2 every so often??

I say recheck that the distributor shaft does not have play in it - it took me nearly a month of fucking around including lending my car to Unka Jake for a weekend while it was fucked to figure out that it was a worn distributor shaft problem on mine.. exactly the same symptom as you describe (well the local sparky and an oscilloscope figured it out - not me)

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it is an l20b which is a four cylinder. It fouls all the plugs over and over but mainly number 3. I am pretty sure it is a fueling issue, will borrow dylans carb and see if that sorts it out

Oh OK - still reckon check your distributor bushes - tis so simple to do - put the points rubbing block at the top of the distriibutor cam and then wiggle the rotor firmly left and right and check if the points gap opens/closes - if you can see it move with your eye - I'm pretty sure it is fucked..

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