Truenotch Posted July 20, 2010 Author Share Posted July 20, 2010 Not enough coolant to the back of the engine? It's possible. The gauge was reading normal (sender is at the back of the head) and it didn't boil or anything. I would have expected the head gasket to blow before it got hot enough to melt one piston though... There are a couple of things that I've noticed are wrong since pulling it apart: - The radiator cap wasn't holding pressure - could have lead to cooling issues. - The alternator wiring had caught something and snapped off the charge/exciter circuit and the main positive power terminal - which may have shorted to the body and spazzed the injectors for a second. Apart from that it seems pretty kosher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 Has the coolent inlet and oultet locations on the engine been modified from standard. (ie the rear return plumbed of the front?) I dono iv just heard debatable advice that it can do naughty things to 4 if this is done to FWD - RWD engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 - The alternator wiring had caught something and snapped off the charge/exciter circuit and the main positive power terminal - which may have shorted to the body and spazzed the injectors for a second. aren't links quite sensitive to having a lush power supply? possible it was the link that spazzed and leaned out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted July 20, 2010 Author Share Posted July 20, 2010 Has the coolent inlet and oultet locations on the engine been modified from standard. (ie the rear return plumbed of the front?) I dono iv just heard debatable advice that it can do naughty things to 4 if this is done to FWD - RWD engines. The cooling is set up the same as the old gen3 FWD engine. aren't links quite sensitive to having a lush power supply? possible it was the link that spazzed and leaned out? They won't run with less than a certain amount of voltage, but that should kill the spark as well? I've had the charge light wire die before and the car ran sweet until you gave it some load - then it would struggle, splutter and stop. Having not had that happen at high RPM or load before, I'm not too sure what the effect could be... It makes sense provided the fuel pump stopped before the ecu eh? It's broken 3 wires off the alternator and my battery no longer stores any charge (hadn't got round to buying a new one), so a sudden loss of voltage could have slowed the fuel pump but continued sparking for a short while after = expensive bbq... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 it was tuned on 14volts. if it wasnt charging and you raced it on 12volts it will have been running slightly less fuel id say???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted July 22, 2010 Share Posted July 22, 2010 http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 259742.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 /mind asplode You put your gen 3 motor back in? Good work on getting it running again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 another beams was slammed in there I believe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted August 15, 2010 Author Share Posted August 15, 2010 /mind asplodeYou put your gen 3 motor back in? Good work on getting it running again! Found another beams for reasonable coin, bought it and inserted. It lost power on the dyno from not being as good as "the" beams... So the plan is still to rebuild the dead one (and add a few bits). It's still a lot of fun and does skids. Also, we've always dyno'd my car in 3rd gear on the rolling road (as opposed to 4th that most tuners use), so all of my readings have been low. I'll get him to do a pull in 4th next time - then the figures will more more comparable with other dynos. Slammed the front by 30mm yesterday because a few of us were bored. It looks a lot cooler with a little bit of tuck, but I'll have to pull in more caster and cut the flares/bumper to make it work. The rear shock mounts are going to need a bit of massaging to allow the heights to be balanced and the 4-link needs to be played with to get the pinion angle set right... Unsure if I'll bother doing this before the next round of racing, but am quite keen to have it lower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 Aaahh okay sweet. Up and running is the important thing! More power can come later. Do you know what kind of car the new motor was from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted August 15, 2010 Author Share Posted August 15, 2010 Yeah, it's a greytop Caldina beams with 190k on it that came from a wrecker (and fellow racer). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted October 7, 2010 Author Share Posted October 7, 2010 Does anyone know what's available in the way of aftermarket pistons for Beams 3SGE's? I just pulled my old engine apart and all 4 of the pistons are rooted from detonation, which sucks cause I wanted to use them for the next incarnation engine. I'm going to price up new replacement pistons from Toyota tomorrow, but don't like the chances of them being cheap. Even standard-spec aftermarkets will be worth looking into if they're available - will get more compression by planing the head. May also look into fitting the Gen3 pistons that are sitting on my bench but will need to do compression calculations and make sure they will clear the valves. Also, if anyone has (or knows of) any rogue beams pistons that aren't being used then they can send a message my way. I think I only need one (have another set of 3 that are ok) but would prefer a set if possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Flick Mac from 41 a pm on TS, will only be priced retail/marked up but will at least give you an idea of what is out there. Any difference between dual and single vvti beams pistons? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted October 7, 2010 Author Share Posted October 7, 2010 Nah they look to be the same. That's Auto dual-beams compared to redtop though - it's possible that the manual ones are different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Edit: Beaten I would guess manuals different? the extra compression in the would come from the pistion, and possibly bigger cutouts for the bigger valves. I would advise against planing the head on an engine like this too much as it really effects squish and combustion characteristics negatively. Oh and don't use Gen 3 pistons! I don't really know any aftermarket pistons for a N/A Beams that don't cost moon beams. There used to be toms or tomi that did a set but the price was crazy. Pretty much the best/only option is Glenns piston and rod combo. Gives you a better rod ratio for revs, and its a proven package. Will set you back a couple grand, but any piston/rod combo thats any good will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted October 7, 2010 Author Share Posted October 7, 2010 Though that might be the case. Could easily kiss goodbye to 4K and only have the basics to start putting it together. brb, gonna go sell myself on the street. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Different comp ratio between auto and manual? really? Got specifics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Bro they have titanium oversize valves on the manual and a wee bit more compression, go google it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Sorry, thought you were referring to the single vvti with different comp ratios Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted October 7, 2010 Author Share Posted October 7, 2010 Got my Toyota man pricing up Manual Altezza pistons now. Might go to 86.5mm but not too sure yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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