Yowzer Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 Sweet as. Fixing the fuel leak wouldn't be a bad idea either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 Sweet as. Fixing the fuel leak wouldn't be a bad idea either. yeh thats true. but that wouldnt take 5 mins to fix though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 Re: Question you txt me (I'm out of monies on the cell) I'm fairly sure you can use Skyline wheels on Z's and vice versa but if you want me to be extra sure I can take one of my spare wheels around to my brother's to try on his S30Z, it might be a case of correct spline but indicators being all up the fuck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 that would be chur. as i have a nardi wheel i want to fit but finding a boss kit for a 240K lol. but you can get these http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =404328027 so was trying to figure out if it would fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 Solution. Either, buy one from YAJ. Or, like me, use YAJ to browse the part numbers of the bosskits. HKB Bosskit to suit C10,C110,C210,R30 Part Number: ON-05 HKB Bosskit to suit S30,S130Z Part Number: ON-05 Bingo? (They're both roughly $35NZD 'Buy Now' Purchase Price, though there's also some listed for roughly $29NZD) It seems ON-05 also fits 510-910 Bluebirds, so there's another avenue. I should have known that already given I used my spare steering wheel on my old 910.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 why did i not think of this, well it looks like it would work, wonder how much shipping would be, YAJ prices are so much cheaper haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 I need one too. Tell you what, after I get paid I'll sort it out. Forget all about it, you'll receive yours in the mail in due course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 your far to much of a GC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 I think a bronze or a copper colour (without going too orange) with silver/chrome holes would rule. Could do the lip silver/chrome to match also. I can;t find an example of what I'm thinking, but I'm sure something came out factory with them. Crowns maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 might need to google that haha. yeh i think a dark bronze that most paint their Watanabe's could be a goer. dont know if im keen to go all 2 colors on it tho. keep it simple spec haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toucan Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 The brownish bronzish colour they are looks mean, wouldnt go black Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicT Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 Dope soldering skills. Buckling manifolds suck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 cheers man, is pretty easy once you sus the right temperature for the alloy solder to take to the base metal properly. took it for a small drive round the factory where we rent our shed last night, was tempted to dort up the road but there was to many people round as it was only 7pm and my co driver didnt turn up to operate laptop. its running pretty rich like 11 AFR when rolling round at like 2000rpm so needs some huge work on the VE table front. i have mostly sused the idle now, my idle advance was way to high, 15 deg is massive for a 6 cyl it seems, all it needed was 8 deg and slowed the idle down to 900 rpm. has a strange issue where it will be idling away at like 15 AFR then it will just go pop in the exhaust and stumble a bit and the wideband will just drop out to 20 AFR for a second, like its kinda not burning all the fuel but at the same time might be burning it in the exhaust, what would cause this? also have some wack issue with my radiator, i found a tiny slit in the radiator which would explain why when i keyed off and radiator hot zones rised it would hiss out it so i took it out and fixed this, poped it back in and started it, started warming it up then water just streams out of some where near my repair not like super fast but at the speed where you turned a tap on that it was a constant stream so i was like wtf and turned it off. Tried to quickly remove the shroud so i could find the source but by the time i got the shroud of it had stopped as it ran out of water. So there was no pressure in it so i poped radiator cap of and filled it again to try get it to do it again so i could find hole. but nada, nothing came out at all, got it up to temp, held temp fine, drove it round the factory, still fine, parked it in the shed and still nothing. so im stumped, how can water piss out the radiator quick enough so one would think there was a solidly sized hole in it, then next time round nothing, so confused at it right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 are you talking about base timing plus 8 deg advance at idle or total? car will run cooler at idle with some decent idle advance. Of course the idle will rise with the extra advance, you should then just knock the idle back abit, seriously I have run 18-20deg of idle advance in plenty of cars. Can't help with the water issue, but mean that this thing is rolling, get a tune on it and post up a vid of it on full song haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 8 deg BTDC at idle, thats all these things run factory according to my book i got with the car and it has defiantly helped the high idle speed. before it would idle at 1500rpm and if i wound the butterfly stop screw any further closed it would just die cause the butterflys were fully closed. and if cut the fuel back any more it would just die also so all that was left was the idle advance so i cut that back now and it mostly behaves so i dunno, seems to have worked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 Yea factory spec is 8-10 deg on plenty of cars, it is just a personal preference to run more, sounds like without and decent idle bypass air setup you are going to struggle to run any more which is fine. buick runs ~18deg at idle and it helps allot in standstill traffic in the hot weather here, factory spec is 5deg which was a BS way of getting past emission tests of the time. Anyway go tune it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 nah shit house rain and no door seals on the car at current so not keen to tune right now, plus its kind of missing all the bolt on panels so driving it on the road is a bit of a no go at current haha. but that may or may not stop if darkness is used Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted September 17, 2011 Share Posted September 17, 2011 PM your address. Those items will be en-route in the next few days (to my house but I'll send yours on.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 If you need a hand for tuning, lining the doors up or any of that other crap just give me a text bro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 cheers man, will give you a bell next time i need a hand, usually yowzer is always about also. turns out your ecu temp sensor in a radiator tube is not a working option. top or bottom tube it just doesnt warm up as well with the engine as i had thought, so im looking for a EFI L series thermostat housing as this is where the factory puts the sensors so hopefully this works. also figured out that wideband in the end of the exhaust on bolt on adaptor is not good enough to tune idle. its always lean as i think its getting outside air interference. so im going to have to weld the bung into my headers so i can get a more reliable readings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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