hey boyz what the hell would these help with

[KKtrips]

Looking at the photo I would check the alignment between the vertical centre of the diff flange half of the UJ and the vertical centre of the g/box output half of the UJ.

It looks like you have the diff nose tilting downwards and I would guess the back of your gearbox tilts downwards as well?

What you need is those 2 angles as close together as possible when the suspension is in its neutral position. (sitting on the ground and settled)

check out my sweeeet MS paint skeels

Nice MS Paint skills auw.

The purpose of the diff nose pointing down like that is to reduce axle tramp on acceleration. I guess it could result in an increased tendancy to skip on decelleration but I would need to think about it for three or four months.

Filthyone - you have never said if is this a new problem or an issue since the car was built?

by also having a 2 link to the bottom of the diff which will prevent axle tramp on acceleration plus excessive pinion angle down would make it 10 times worse on decelration would it not?

^ genuine question I am not trying to present that as a fact.

[Unclejake]

[

by also having a 2 link to the bottom of the diff which will prevent axle tramp on acceleration plus excessive pinion angle down would make it 10 times worse on decelration would it not?

^ genuine question I am not trying to present that as a fact.

That is exactly what I thought too so earlier in this saga I suggested he took both arms off. He did and the symptom got heaps worse by the sound of it.

[KKtrips]

Solution = 4 link with coil overs

TUFF

KTHXBAI

[Honda Ass Dragger]

Solution = 4 link with coil overs

TUFF

KTHXBAI

Or a 2 link and watts set up

Or go real crazy and irs it, like the old boosted performance ke26

or jsut tub it with a 4 link and coil overs

[Unclejake]

^ A watts link ain't gonna help this problem.

Nothing wrong with leaf springs IMHO. Something is wrong with what is in this car. Perhaps it is a front end problem with too much dive transfeering too much weight to the front of the car on decelleration.

I would like the symptom and history explained in a little more detail Filthman. Does it happen only when you hit the brakes of is it driveline induced (i.e. only engine braking causes it)? How do you know it is happenening? Can you hear the rear tyres chirping or are you feeling a vibration that you have put down to the rear axle hopping?

Yuh.

We are a helpful lot

[filthy one]

man you fullas a good fukkas!!

Na its done it from the start I put the link arms on it helped a little but I also made a few changes at the same time which is whay i took Gaz's & UJ's advice & took the 2-link arms off but no luck set me back the where it all began ...

The nose of the diff is perfectly paralell with the gearbox {spirt level on the d-shaft bubbles spot on} when the cars on all 4's.

What it does is only under drive train load no issues when braking. Only engine braking!! It makes the car shudder/vibrate {kind of like riding a bike with a flat spot on the rim like bouncing fuck what a discription}With the wagon up on axle stands with body weight sitting as if the wheels are on the ground on de-acceleration the diff head bounces the gear box or engine don't move.

The rear shocks were new when the car was built {monroe gas) the leaf springs were re-set & nolathened out I even welded the u-bolts to the diff just to make sure it wasn't twisting there..

I did notice there a lot end float in the diff i can spin the diff flange almost half a turn before is bites

Thanks for all the help boyz

[Unclejake]

Shit mate - if chicks could give that kind of sensible and detailed description about their unhappinesses we could fix everything.

Me = going to have to have a think but I am starting with rear gearbox tailshaft bearing or driveshaft universals ATM.

Chur. Lemme think

[filthy one]

Shit mate - if chicks could give that kind of sensible and detailed description about their unhappinesses we could fix everything.

Me = going to have to have a think but I am starting with rear gearbox tailshaft bearing or driveshaft universals ATM.

Chur. Lemme think

Your going for all the optons now UJ all of the above are new replaced when built

[Unclejake]

I am not in the best brain position to think straight (beer) but I did gve a mate a diff head once and he came back bitching about how much it vibrated.

I would need to check with him as I can not accurately recall if the diff nugget was in fact the problem in the end.

It was an Anglia van with a Cortina diff head

[sholdowa]

Like UJ I do worry over the state of the diff. If that'd been ok, then my first check would be the gearbox mount, given what you've said. Mind you, and I shit you not, one of the worst vibration problems I've had was caused by a rubber band jammed in the tread of a rear wheel. Although that was a Renault 16, and you just can't trust those Frenchies, can you

[Jase]

i would be real careful at this point,

how much travel have you got left onto the back of your gearbox spline?

was your driveshaft custom and did they weld it with the bearings in ie i had grease nipples put on all my universal bearings,

check your differential see if it does it on stands without the wheels on as it will take heaps of

inertia away that could be magnifying a lash problem,

are your wheels all balanced no tire gunk in there or nething

pretty much check check check is all i can suggest

if its done it from the start i'm thinking it hasn't been set up bang on from the start or it was

an existing problem from the start ie dodgee diff (not a locker is it with a shit load of weld on one side)

i've broken a driveshaft universal at a hundred k it ain't pretty ripd a hole in the floor and absolutely shat myself gearbox x member broke on decellaration dropd box down 3" bound driveshaft which ripped the universal bearings out then further bound the gearbox and ripped the ass off the gb then it whipped up and through the floor thankfully it locked the diff up at this point and i wasn't carrying passengers as it coulda ended real bad,

driveshaft loops from now on

[filthy one]

Check this out small vid of the issue

http://www.livevideo.com/video/57D3DBCF ... c=13265872

Sorry not all that clear but you'll see the diff head twitchn

[kpr]

as others said. i'd be looking at the diff backlash first.

[RUNAMUCK]

That backlash does sound rather a lot. I've had (numurous) diffs shit the pinion bearing, (Not saying thats what you've done, you'd hear it) and they rumble like fuck on over run. When you're on decell, the pinion flange it driving the rest of the drive line around.

Or maybe your leaves are just really old, and not up to the job.............

[slipsittin]

Silly thing but are your lowering blocks in line with your springs or accross them??

the gearbox isn't touching the tunnel is it? my MK2 did that till the porta power got involved to fit the celica box.

Also all the leaf springs are around the right way aren't they? If they aren't fitted the right way around in the pack it will cause huge tramp problems.

The last thing is what angle are the shackles on? they should be facing back at the bottom no more than 2/3rds (about 55-60 degrees)

Hope this is some help.

Corey

[Unclejake]

What it does is only under drive train load no issues when braking. Only engine braking!! It makes the car shudder/vibrate {kind of like riding a bike with a flat spot on the rim like bouncing fuck what a discription}With the wagon up on axle stands with body weight sitting as if the wheels are on the ground on de-acceleration the diff head bounces the gear box or engine don't move.

I think you have just ruled out a suspension issue. A new diff head might sort it - but I would have thought you would have had issues under load too.

Sorry - I can't be of much more help.

[drftnmaz]

sounds to me like your crown wheel & pinion are worn... (the whole not engaging straight away comment) "i can spin the diff flange almost half a turn before is bites" it would deff be where i'd start, the more i think about it the more i think its the noise your trying to discribe

the only other thing is if your driveshaft is too long, if you dissconnect the rear UJ the shaft should be able to slide forward into the g/box about 20mm (with wheels jacked up, i.e at ride height)