filthy one

This bad boys in the latest NZ Rodder mag along with my Pontiac

sup been a while been out of contact but have doen a bit on the rat Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Made a bit of progress this weeks shortened the chassis & mocked up the well side . Also got the cab pretty much where I want it to sit it will raise up by about 50mm after its mounted Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us got the steering column semi mounted too talk about a mint fit its exactly the right length

Not much of an update been working on the Pontiac more of late fitting new 3spd trans & floor shifter etc . But i did strip the paint off the mooneyes discs i scored & started stripping the roof gunna get back into it more next

Yep $97 to reg a new {homebuilt}trailer that includes 6 months reg then you just need to get a wof easy as bro

bet Barts happy about that mate. The sedan not being complete that is..

righto stripped my th350 thismorning to find rooted clutches in the direct clutch Im happy cos at least there was something fucken wrong with it .. Not to bad to strip down cost me $130 for a full overhaul kit ex US {I already had this } & im guessign about 6 hours laboru to assemble it.. Fucked if I can see how the trans shops wanted a cool $1100 to fit my supplied kit . Not to many bit in bobs in one of these babys You can see the linings are gone completly look like a brake disc after its been running with worn pads I scored another trans that I 100% know is ok so gunna run with it for now & rebuild this one over time shiftkit it etc

yep fries tyres first & well into 2nd but 3rd just goes weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeyeeerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

yeah mate it selects 3rd sweet as now but its slips real bad

na think its fucked . I found out its got a manual shiftkit fitted so I disconnected the vac hose & now it shifts into 3rd smooth but slips . As in the engine revs but the car doesn't pick up speed then it kind of grabs hold & will drive ok. It drives fine cruising in 3rd but try to speed up & she slips .. Talked to a mate who works for a trans shop hes suggested a bottle of Lucas trans slip fluid apperantly its bloody good & because the trans has been sitting for a couple of years he said it may have a shitty film on the plates & need a bit of use etc ..Might as well try it i guess only other option it take the fucker out again .. I have a full rebuilt kit $300/400 so i guess it not the end of the world .Just such a shit to take it out again

Yo anyone no if low fluid would cause my trans to not shift into 3rd ?? It goes from 1st to 2nd all good in drive & manually shifting but not into 3rd.. its all good other than that but mmmmmmm not happy & I ran out of light

Not much of an update this week been busy sorting out the trans in the Pontiac instead. Started making mounts this week but i did buy some mooneyes wheel discs they are alloy & some noddy has painted them so i'm gunna paint strip em & leave the skinnys on there. They only stung me $30 I thought they were copies but they have the moon stamp on them so score. Gives it the whole salt racer look..

okay got the TH350 checked & itrs a minter B&M shift kitted & all so I decided to pull the Powerglide out last night what a mish but got there . Pulled the pan off the TH350 to fit new filter & pan {the old one had a few dents & repairs}.. Also learnt the factory coloum shifter wont work due to not enuff travel to select all gears & also decided to fit a trans cooler instead of using the factory bottom of the radiator shit idea Those ideas resulted in the below purchases might have to mod the crossmember slightly but thats it everything else will straight swap over

mint cheers na leaving tha can on the tilt will come down a wee bit in the front after i mount it

Guys I need abit of info Sits real nice height wise but I want to shorten the chassis as it was a nissan kingcab chassis its way to long . I have a model A wellside I want to put on it .Now my question what size plate{thickness} is regulation size{if there is one }to use to plate the chassis after I cut the section out. You can see from the pics what im wanting to do!!! standard length after blocks fitted The white lines are my rough cutting points taking out the yellow section Giving this as a result any advise wil be great Also on making up a subframe for the floor of the cab/trans tunnel etc was thinking 25/30mm box . Thoughts ??

Small update brought some 3 inch lowering blocks & some new engine & trans mounts heated up the drivers door hinges & removed the rusted pins hung the door with new ones Fitted the blocks they sat the bitch right down low & man I love it. Still got 70mm of travel & thats without changing the bump stops to shorter ones next week going to mount the engine & trans & shorten the chassis

got the engine sitting in today fit primo got a bit of work to do forthe trans mount tho sits on the torsion bar bolts channeled the body down a bit more too looks mean as got a seat outta the old mazda 1200 ute i wrecked it will also fit primo.. Also had a fuck round with photoshop roof choppin it like it to the baddest but not sure if I wanna do it just yet going to dhop 400mm out of the chassis to shorten it up..

got a bit involved thismorning & at lunchtime. sat the cab on the nissan chassis fuck me it nearly fit purrrrrrrrrrrfectly chopped out the fire wall wee bit more to go . my only dilema is the f-guards cos they dont line up . I like the look of them but to make em fit they will need cut a lengthined but if i do the it may throw the look of them off so yah bit stuck like the no guard look but not too sure there either & i'd have to wait til I can apply for a exemption.. For nor gunna channel the body down to where I want it to sit mount the engine & trans & go from there.

began work on it 5am thismorning stripped the cab off the nissan got a bit of chassis work to do to make the old ford body fit etc trial fitment of the guards & grill not to bad should have a cool stance when done.. going to cut through the blue lines & remount the Stabilizer Rod mounts in the red circles will have to shorten the Stabilizer Rods aswel as re-mount them this is a rough idea of what i'll do up front

then Bart my friend that was a score LOl.. Mate not sure i will prolly use what I can wiper mech, pedal box, seat belts but theres a 5 spd box & the engine in it {possible burnt valve] talk to me if you keen on either..

Okay not much progress on this baby been to busy finishing the Morry trailer had a big yarn to Wayne martin {certifier} yesterday about plans etc for the beasty. It was well worth it cos he said theres no way it would get road legal using the factory chassis even modded it was way to light . As far as body mods go for you life was pretty much his statement.. So new plan brought a 84 Nissan ute for $150 today{mean score } its on it way down from Masterton already. Makes my job even easier late brakes ,steering even got a later model LSD diff & cos its a complete ute I can use other bits off it. It will have to be reg'd as scratch built which means its needs 2 spd wipers, retractable belts & lock type door catches everything else pretty much free rain.. going to body drop it for sure but gone away from chopping the roof.. heres a couple of pics of the ute

All done yall Not to happy wif the color wanted more of an army green oh well it was free only things left is door panels gunna make some MDF ones & cover them in some weather proof shit finish the table & reg it .. Thinkin about putting a stereo in there & running it off the aux on the trailer plug .. All up owes me $80 + reg of $97 & 12 hours of time

thats what was in there but i did'nt like em

yep did think about it but dont wanna buy one its been built spending $80 including purchase price so na fuck it.....