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Help with slammage!


nobumps

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are you sure?

how much of the rod is sticking out of the shock when its bottoming out?

if the answer is nothing then shortening the shaft wont do jack, but im sure ive got the wrong end of the stick here.

im sure you mean something other than what i think you mean :lol::lol:

sheepers.

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If you mean travel in compression, and the car is bottoming out on the bumpstops then shortening the shock isnt going to do anything. If the car is bottoming out on the shock rather than the bumpstops, something is up. maybe you have removed the bumpstops? Normally you only need shorten your shocks if your springs are not captive at full droop, rather than compression.

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are you sure?

how much of the rod is sticking out of the shock when its bottoming out?

if the answer is nothing then shortening the shaft wont do jack, but im sure ive got the wrong end of the stick here.

im sure you mean something other than what i think you mean :lol::lol:

sheepers.

Good point. If the shaft is fully retracted when it bottoms out then shortening it ain't going to help. Nobumps will need a shortened shock body (if that makes sense).

If there is two inches of shaft still showing with the shock has bottomed out then shortening the shaft two inches will give you two more inches of compression travel - and the expense of two inches of rebound travel

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If you mean travel in compression, and the car is bottoming out on the bumpstops then shortening the shock isnt going to do anything. If the car is bottoming out on the shock rather than the bumpstops, something is up. maybe you have removed the bumpstops? Normally you only need shorten your shocks if your springs are not captive at full droop, rather than compression.

Look at my name...

i lowered car to desired height (sitting on the bumps) i removed bumps to see how much travel was left.. Shit all so i want to shorten the shaft to get back some travel then i can replace bumps with smaller ones and have the best of both worlds, Im certain the shaft still has a fair bit and max compression will check tonight

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whats the setup front and back? if its mcpherson stz and its got no travel shortening wont do shit but keep it captive, you need to shorten the strut and run a shorter shock to get more travel. If wishbone just get shocks with a smaller body/travel obviously

is it like this?

Jetta_hub_strut.jpg

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yea so mcpherson boe most of those type of front tugs setups run a sealed front shock as in when you buy a front shock it has the spring perch etc on it. So suss if yours is sealed or not and go from there, if it is try find something that is has a shorter body and fits or can be modded to fit. If its not sealed crack it open and look at shortening the casing and finding a shorter shock

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does it have a top nut boe? otherwise find an alternative thats factory shorter. If you were really stuck and its sealed wet insert you could butcher the top of the shock off find a shorter shock that fits cut the strut to suit re thread the top of the strut for a suitable nut and bam its the last resort I guess thats what we have to do to phill boes eterna. looks like you'd have tyo find a real short shock though could be interesting

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Yeah single nut top, hmm fuck dont wana sacrifice any height turning out to be a pain and not keen to spend much cash onit, maybe ill just mash a small bump stop on there so at least its not a harsh ride when it bumps out, just watch out for me on the road what a fuickin menace.

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lol

Ok so what spence is trying to figure out is whether you have shock inserts or just a one piece setup. If you have a big nut at the top of the shock outter casing (not at the top of the pin/shaft etc) then you might be able to put in a short dry insert, like we do with cressidas/soarers/mark 2's etc

This is a dry insert. You'd need to find one that is shorter that yours to put in and cut the top on the shock down to allow more travel and then retap the inner thread so that your nut still retains the shock inside.

StrutInserts.jpg

You could then retain your standard spring perch if theres still enough "meat" left or you may have to go for coil overs to give more travel, like philboe is doing.

e12_450lb.jpg

OR, you could get a whole new shock setup that is short and allows a full range of travel at that height and then just modify the bottom (read: weld your low mounting flange on) so that it all bolts up nicely and articulates well and then modify the top hat etc to work.

Heres an example of something that may work (the fronts not the rears obviously).

63958d1147913672-review-kyb-gr2-kyb_group2_md.jpg

Either way it will be a bit of fiddling around getting it all setup right and could cost a little bit of cash depending on how you go about it.

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is there a big nut on top of the strut body itself (not talking about the shaft)? if so;

option 1.

the shock insert can be removed from the strut body and a replacement shock found thats shorter. then say the new shock is 4 inchs shorter you cut 2 inchs of top off the strut and rethread in lathe.

option 2.

and if space allows with tyre clearence and under the shock body, disassemble shock. carefully cut off the mounting plates on bottom of strut where it bolts to hub. reposition further up strut body being careful as to insure correct position/angles ect.

weld back onto strut

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