Ke36 Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 wanna get some rca's machined up for my car so it doesnt mess with the handling so much when its lowered how big should i get them 2 inchs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drftnmaz Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 normaly you just get them big enough to get the lower arm straight, the ones i run in my ke70 are only 35mm big, they are from toytenco tuning and i think thats the only size they make Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 What are Rca's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 roll center adjusters I think - it attaches between the strut bottom and the ball joint I think and basically spaces the bottom of the strut out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 yea helps sort the geometry and get the steering arms back down after lowering to reduce bump steer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 in a perfect world you want your bottom control arm on a downward angle from the car/crossmember to the wheel. about 10 deg is good. there's plenty of things that may make this imposable, but the closer you can get the better. you can make/buy offset roll center correctors which also give you some camber as well as fixing you roll center. sheepers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 yea sheepers is on to it most cases the size you need just isnt possible, I hate MacPherson strut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 Ahh I see. Was wondering if there was any way of fixing that. My car has it pretty bad now ive lowered it more. Wouldnt spacing out the bottom of the strut just give you camber tho? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 Wouldnt spacing out the bottom of the strut just give you camber tho? Goes onto the bottom on the strut/hub mounting surface to space the steering arm attachment down so as to retain as much downward angle as possible. I always wondered what they were for haha That might help. And toyota (mcpherson strut) ones usually look like this I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 ^^^^those are the buggas!! i made mine with offset so i got camber as well, but those are what your after. you should be able to get a 50mm RCA in without too much of a problem, its really only your wheel that youve got to clear with the bottom of the arm. sheepers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RT Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 hmmm thats really what I need for my capri.. where does one get em? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drftnmaz Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 i've only ever seen them for sale for toyota's, anything over 45mm or so and you need 15's and up, my 35mm ones put the lower ball joint greese nipple pretty close to the 14' rim (i could always loose the nipple to go bigger) so i'd say goto your local engineer with the steering arm and strut, explain what you want and get them made. -note how they align/locate like factory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RT Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 good plan.. I have a few engineer mates who could prolly fabricate something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy_rich Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 its a pity old fords have the steering arm and the lower control arm attaching in different places on the strut, means we have to fuck with them separately, the lower ball joint doesn't just bolt on either, we'd probably have to machine up a sleeve internally tapered on one end, externally on the other, but then the thread on the taper on the control arm wouldn't be long enough. for the steering we'd need adjustable rose joints on the end of the steering rack. does anyone know of any common remedy for the old skool fords? I've always been told not to go too low, or too firm in the rear if i want my capri to handle properly. meh, low is sic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 yea helps sort the geometry and get the steering arms back down after lowering to reduce bump steer They're not there to reduce bump steer... They're there to return the 'centre of roll' of the front of the car back to the height that it should be at. Where the roll centre is in relation to your centre of gravity affects how the car handles, RCAs change the roll centre to suit the lower centre of gravity. I'm pretty sure that it's the length of the lower arm vs the length of the rack ends that determines whether you'll get bump steer or not... and offset of your wheels vs. what the suspension was designed for I think. I've got some fairly beefy RCAs in the front of mine, with 35mm offset each side, spaces out my front track quite a bit.... Gives a few degrees of neg camber, enough so that the outer 15-20mm of my tire doesnt even touch the ground. I'll probably reduce the camber though for road use, when I get adjustable tops for the struts. (And flare my gaurds out a lil, so the wheels actually fit under them) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WDE_BDY Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 DELETED Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke36 Posted January 8, 2008 Author Share Posted January 8, 2008 sweet ill just try some 35mm ones not worried abnout offset ones etc as gotta get rims in guards gotta be better than nothing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 im running 50mm rca's in the kp. ball joints clear 14" rims. but not by much. best to measure up before you buy, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke36 Posted January 8, 2008 Author Share Posted January 8, 2008 im running 50mm rca's in the kp. ball joints clear 14" rims. but not by much. best to measure up before you buy, ok wat am i measuring then? just get it at the height i want then measure how much i need to drop the control arm by to make it atleast horizontal, or even try get it similar angle to wat it is now (stock height) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RT Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 its a pity old fords have the steering arm and the lower control arm attaching in different places on the strut, means we have to fuck with them separately, the lower ball joint doesn't just bolt on either, we'd probably have to machine up a sleeve internally tapered on one end, externally on the other, but then the thread on the taper on the control arm wouldn't be long enough. for the steering we'd need adjustable rose joints on the end of the steering rack. does anyone know of any common remedy for the old skool fords?I've always been told not to go too low, or too firm in the rear if i want my capri to handle properly. meh, low is sic. of course.. I wasn't really thinking it through properly. I have heard of people raising their steering rack to get the geometry back.. but I think bump steer is more caused by the track control arms. They need to be on an angle.. mine are almost flat as the car is so low so that I get some bump steer. Kinda sucks sometimes but it looks cool so I put up with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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