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Oil Coolers


zep

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turbos make stupid amounts of heat.. I ran water and oil lines on mine, the water is good for turbos as it helps prevent 'coking' after you turn the car off. I wouldn't remove them.. otherwise the turbo is just gonnna get extra-super mega fuckin hot.

I ran a 19 row oil cooler on my 2L turbs. Worked a treat.. you don't really need to worry aboot running the oil too cool with a turbs.. everythings too hot with a turbs lol. :lol:

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^ agree.

also, plumb it into the top heater hose outlet if it's at the other end of the engine perhaps?

Heater is gone gone. I think I'll plumb it back into the heater hoses somewhere tho, better then above the temp-sender.

Brad: I'm not sure about it fucking with the temp, as it does seem to keep an alrightish temp when moving, jsut at idle (when the turbo isn't in use but I guess the water is still getting pumped through there.

Gaz: The gauges are shite but the overflow bottle is going hard so not sure aye, and the engine bay is hot as fuck!! I'm going to buy one of those turbo-beanies and heat wrap the dump pipe to keep the temps down a bit... my bonnet turns orange above the turbo when the car is runing!!

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I'd say that the heating is just because of the fans on the radiator. You did say that its fine when the car is moving aye - that implies that the radiator is the correct size. Biff the extra 10" fan on the rad and that should fix it.

But also do the oil cooling. Its tuffer if its oil has to be cooled :P

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Brad: I'm not sure about it fucking with the temp, as it does seem to keep an alrightish temp when moving, jsut at idle (when the turbo isn't in use but I guess the water is still getting pumped through there.

Remember that hot exhaust gases are always flowing through the turbo even though thats on the exhaust side. I'd say even the compressor side would get to near exhaust temperature at idle - perhaps even hotter than when its forcing all that cool air through it, or am I thinking about it the wrong way?

my bonnet turns orange above the turbo when the car is runing!!

:lol:

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Another thing is that my turbo water return drops in after the thermostat just above the water-temp sender. It might be a good idea to shift this I think. Would it be best to try and route the hot turbo water so it goes in to the radiator some how?

sounds like a culprit. like they said, temp sender should be in head or at least on head side of thermostat. just moving it upstream of the turbo outlet would be a good start though. sounds like you might be seeing turbo water temps when the rest of it is running sweet?

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Yah... I'm gonna move my water return to just before the water pump which should make a difference. Although yesterday I went for a drive it seemed to stay around 80C so that's not too bad.

I found AutoGauge Gauges worked shit, and flicked up and down etc.

Either get a original gauge or a decent after market one.

Just what i found.

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Yeah agree bout shit gauges. Go for Autometer, autogage series, prob the cheapest of the good brands but does'nt miss a beat.

even the autometer stuff is pretty average. just well marketed. they dont even have accuracy specs on their site. maybe vdo or something more serious? or a DVM and electical sensor. not pretty, but accurate.

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managed to get this, not as much use as i had hoped, but potentially interesting none the less.

as i said, i have no water lines to the turbo, but i do have a water-oil cooler like this diagram

the water oil cooler is fed with already "hot" water from half way down the side of the head and is returned into the heater return and into the place where the radiator returns to the block for the water pump to scavenge.

the turbo is done the same way, but the cooler water from the lower jacket on the block is fed to the turbo, and it returns to the heater return just like the oil cooler.

both of these work via a pressure differential introduced by the water pump pushing against the thermostat (another reason why you should always use one) and the consequently lower pressure on the other side of the stat.

heres the pic :

f2tcoolantturborouting.png

hope that helps.

fred.

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most of mazdas f series engine have them, and many other mazda engines too. turbo or not. just the size differs. the one i have is from my twincam na engine standard, and its bigger than the one found on the f2t turbo model (pictured)

some skylines have the same style of cooler on their filter too.

its good because it allows faster oil heat up too (water heats oil during warm up), and keeps oil and water temps closer together.

oems arent silly buggers, there is a lot to be learned from the way they do things. they just might not have done it on your car like that :-)

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a point of intrest on the turbo waterlines. hundreds of factory turbo rotary motors get/got put in early mazdas and noone bothers with the waterline.

the added thing to fail, make it an extra bit harder when you have to take the turbo off as its normally in the way of the last bolt you need to undo for any job.

summing up. waterlines are gay as.

unless you plan on using your car as a taxi and doing 600,000k+ and 680 hot shutdowns a year.

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a point of intrest on the turbo waterlines. hundreds of factory turbo rotary motors get/got put in early mazdas and noone bothers with the waterline.

the added thing to fail, make it an extra bit harder when you have to take the turbo off as its normally in the way of the last bolt you need to undo for any job.

summing up. waterlines are gay as.

unless you plan on using your car as a taxi and doing 600,000k+ and 680 hot shutdowns a year.

x2 same thing happens with mitsy turbo conversions

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depends how hard you are going to run it. if you run it hard, it will not last like oem, and if you run oem turbo cars properly hard, and i mean properly, the turbos are only good for 100 - 200kkm anyway. maybe less.

for track use, i'd say its a goer to have it setup correctly.

i've got some TT plans in the works eventually, the small turbo will only do anything under 5krpm, so it will probably be left without water lines hooked up. under heavy use, it will be above that speed and a non issue.

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Generation 2 3sgte's have the same thing a water collar that goes before the oil filter to provide cooling to the oil, ive jsut ripped it off to help with space for exhuast manifold, but am going to run a mitisbishi pajero oil cooler should do the job and was only 9 bucks from pik a part, the lines and fittings and remount filter mount kit were about 200 but hopefully will help the 3s last

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