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dylan
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Im eventually going to paint the Marina. Its going to have patches of new metal welded in, and plenty of old original paint. I believe Durepox brushed on is what i should be using to seal/prime the new metal, but what do I do with the old paint? Do i just scuff it up and hit it with some normal primer/high build and then paint over it? Do I prime over durepox to blend it in with the other primer or just paint right over it?

I don't need it to be a show paint job, and its a non-metallic colour that I will probably get in cans from the local bodyshop supplier. Its just a tidy up to make it all one colour.

I've also read I can use durepox as a weld through primer, or should I get a specific weld through primer?

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see last page for welding durapox. i clean off the area around it tho (1cm ish square with my finger sander for spot welds, it wont strike a good arc if its painted on any thickness and welds way better cleaning the bead area off, i found i had to do that anyway with "weld through" primers, and still got a worse result)

 

if you have a gun blow the durapox on, mine always ends up with a bit of a texture but i do try put on about 3 full layers, I dont think i have ever tried top coat directly on it

 

If i were you, i would scuff the whole thing with somewhere between 120 and 600 depending on how the original finish and repairs are, and then i would blow the whole lot with primer because there is always some shitty old paint repair that bubbles up and then you have to sand and prime that panel again anyways

 

 

*but i see you are doing it with cans, so just scuff the thing with 600 and spray it on. You will still get a good result with a small compressor and a half decent gun

 

 

On 12/03/2021 at 18:18, NickJ said:

Appropriate techniques and tricks for panel&paint in confined workshops?

Looking to attack the rust and panelwork on the Datsun this winter, minor but needs attention stuff, sill, bottoms of gaurds etc, only catch is I don't have a massive workshop, one bay for the car and half for workbench etc. Painting the full car is not really possible inside as I don't want overspray everywhere, but I could make space for a door at a time.

Is there any best way to go about the job? Thinking one panel at a time to be able to refit and check lines, hoping this comes with the added bonus of not having too much space taken up for storage for long periods?

Once all panels are straight and primed, set up a temporary spray booth in the car port/driveway to finish the topcoat?

I spray in my shed and honestly never have much of a problem with overspray, just the clear leaves dust on everything so i cover the other cars with a movers blanket.  Better to just spray it all inside in one go. Put some painters plastic over the walls if you want it will only take half an hour with a big roll + that means all the dust is stuck behind the plastic

 

i can do it literally in the space of the car plus enough room to walk around it - big stuff means my elbow rubs the wall as i spray lol, but it comes out fine

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  • 2 weeks later...

Playing around with aliexpress pigment $1 a gram to my door for chameleon Always wanted it as a teenager going to hose my scooter with it with a black base. Not as trendy these days but should look sweet.

1 litre owes me about $50.

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37 minutes ago, Muncie said:

Let's shop together on AliExpress with new user coupons
Your NZ$ 1.46 in coupons are here!
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKjLod1

Appears you get a discount... my only advice is upgrade postage or it'll get lost 3rd attempt, bought 3 vials of 10g to give enough for a litre.

Cheers ears. Did you put the pigment in a binder?

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35 minutes ago, Bellicose said:

Cheers ears. Did you put the pigment in a binder?

Yeah some shit i bought ages ago when i was doing custom painted furniture its an automotive product. I used to do crazy pearl coffee tables and stuff seemed to work well getting particles onto objects.

Probably doing it wrong but its cheap enough to learn with again (been 20 years since ive painted anything other than buildings) 

Im actually a trade qualified vehicle restorer......

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29 minutes ago, Muncie said:

Yeah some shit i bought ages ago when i was doing custom painted furniture its an automotive product. I used to do crazy pearl coffee tables and stuff seemed to work well getting particles onto objects.

Probably doing it wrong but its cheap enough to learn with again (been 20 years since ive painted anything other than buildings) 

Im actually a trade qualified vehicle restorer......

Cheers. Yeah i'm a car painter, been in the trade 35 years.

Reason i ask is iv'e seen people put the pigments into already made colours and wondered why their fancy pigments do f all lol. 

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7 minutes ago, Bellicose said:

Cheers. Yeah i'm a car painter, been in the trade 35 years.

Reason i ask is iv'e seen people put the pigments into already made colours and wondered why their fancy pigments do f all lol. 

True, yeah my mix is just a clear base nothing else apart from the 30g of pigment.

What colour would you recommend under as a base over the primer Black? silver? Its going on a bike frame so ill just keep hosing it on till its even, wanting depth so was going to go dark base with 2-3 clear coats.

Sound right?

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4 minutes ago, Muncie said:

True, yeah my mix is just a clear base nothing else apart from the 30g of pigment.

What colour would you recommend under as a base over the primer Black? silver? Its going on a bike frame so ill just keep hosing it on till its even, wanting depth so was going to go dark base with 2-3 clear coats.

Sound right?

Definitely over black. Just use black base coat. You just put the binder/pigment mix on like basecoat, it's easy as.  

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@kws what colour are you doing your marina in? I may suggest sanding back all the old paint, as it may react with the primer you're putting over it. I know you don't want a show finish but if it's like black I'd suggest high build primer over everything not just the repair and block the whole thing down. 

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2 minutes ago, 87creepin said:

@kws what colour are you doing your marina in? I may suggest sanding back all the old paint, as it may react with the primer you're putting over it. I know you don't want a show finish but if it's like black I'd suggest high build primer over everything not just the repair and block the whole thing down. 

The same colour, Bold As Brass.

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  • 2 weeks later...

In my experience nowhere near as much. 

Basecoat (not 2k) I sometimes get old repairs ripple up, I assume they use cheap lacquer. Chrisrs ute was giving me shit in a few places where brake fluid had already lifted an edge so new lacquer on top was getting under it and lifting more

But 2k primer over that seems to work just fine. 

Best bet is to do lighter coats and let it gas off longer so the solvents don't react. 

 

Don't think I have ever had clearcoat do it to anything even cheap shit

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I've just been trying to temporarily touch up some spots on the anglia, but the primer is killing the old dodgily applied paint in some places. Whenever this has happened to me in the past it has just been a never ending cycle of sanding back more and more and more until there is nothing left at all.

Haven't encountered that problem with 2K paint the few times I used it though.

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