dylan

PAINT THREAD

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Hammer and shrinking first if you can.  Then bog it up, then high build only for blocking to make it super slick not to fix problems. Bog is pretty fancy these days and isn’t the devil.

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Go watch old hotrod garage, Boyd had some high class paint guys in there at different points in time and they skim bog whole show cars to get them perfect lol.

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i aim for a finger nails thickness. its for finishing not for shaping

 

 

but needs must tbh

 

the primer filler currently in paint cabinet is carmaster cp-6120 high build, and primer filler carmaster cp-8550

both were much of a muchness tbh, both sand well and cover fast. I wet sprayed the base over the 8550 and had good results.

 

over durepox or existing paint, and covered with protec base and clear

 

paint hasnt fallen off any of the cars yet

IMG_20200826_085956.jpg

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Does bog actually take a few days to cure properly? I fill a ding, block sand it flat, but come back a few days later and i swear its shrunk down into the depression 

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if its very thick

if you are not using enough hardener

if its very cold

 

some bogs have noticeable shrinkback tho

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26 minutes ago, tortron said:

if its very thick

if you are not using enough hardener

if its very cold

 

some bogs have noticeable shrinkback tho

hmm, in this case it's only a mm or two thick, not sure about the hardener but it's generally getting difficult to work with after 5-10 minutes so I wouldn't say I'm being overly stingy with the hardener. It's mid winter, but northland mid winter, so it's note what I'd call 'very cold'... I'm always willing to blame the product so maybe it's my Repco bog. If shrinkback is a thing, do you think I'm best to just let it mature for a few days before smithing it?

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Yeah never buy any body work gear from the auto chain stores, they just sell you crap and don't give a fuck. Go see you local auto paint shop get something like evercoat (lite-weight or rage) its the shit. With the good stuff you should get basically zero shrinking, sands like a dream and no pin holes.

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i use the evercoat liteweight. pretty good, never had it shrink back

 

 

and it comes in 10L tins

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1 hour ago, tortron said:

i use the evercoat liteweight.

Me too.

 

1 hour ago, tortron said:

and it comes in 10L tins

That must be for the big jobs!

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Not surprised with how the Mericans' tend to bog a whole car before paint.

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I need a bit more epoxy primer, so figured I could get extra and do the underside guards, and areas that aren't seen. Is it legit to just slap a couple coats on and leave as is? Really don't see the point of top coating something never seen if a decent coating of epoxy will be fine.

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From what I've used:

3M gold? = expensive, okay ish, not really my favourite to use as it's super runny. Nice to sand though and you generally won't need spot putty to fill holes etc. Used at fancy pants work 

Evercoat blue tin = good stuff, bit light, nice to sand, not as runny as 3m, what we used in course. 

Roberlo maxi fill = heavier filler, bit different to get used to as doesn't sand as nice and may need to go over with spot putty if high build primer doesn't fill holes etc, bit harder to feather edge, but an experienced panelbeater I knew loved it for bigger repairs and it was cos it didn't shrink much and was nice to use with the larger spreaders. 

Repco = I used it on my sills of my subaru that were smashed in. Sucked, always had giant holes. Good thing I used Underseal which filled it easily. Ain't fell off yet and I used amounts that would probably get me fired if I did it in industry lol 

Septone metal fibreglass reinforced = okay ish, hard to work like with most of this type of bog, but if you do it right can run magnets etc over the finished product and will be harder to detect bog due to metal filaments in it

I'm in my 2nd year of being in the panel/paint industry so my opinion may not count for much :)

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On 11/08/2020 at 22:00, markw said:

This is a long thread and I'm having trouble finding a place where stripping a car to bare metal is discussed. Is there a decent thread on here on the topic? Most interested in sanding (disk grinding with paint removal attachments) and media blasting.

Would I be right to say that using a DA sander with say 40g or 80g and an interface pad for curved areas be safer than using abrasive wheels? I mean less chance of digging ugly divots in the paint? Believe it or not my dick face tutor advised us to grind the paint off with a grinding disc lol. At work we use DA sanders with 120/80g for the more difficult jobs. 

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On 25/08/2020 at 20:46, Spencer said:

Hammer and shrinking first if you can.  Then bog it up, then high build only for blocking to make it super slick not to fix problems. Bog is pretty fancy these days and isn’t the devil.

Had a sunroof removed a while back. Paid good $ for a craftsman panel beater. Once the insert was tigged in it went to paint. The painter only used high build primer, no filler at all. Then a metal flake paint so it had to be spot on. Makes me lol watching the yankee hot rod shows. Fabrication is finished now it's time for body work, out comes a big drum of bog. Lol.

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The dream is you do metal repairs and go straight to primer and done, not many of us have those kind of skills :)

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Just now, Spencer said:

The dream is you do metal repairs and go straight to primer and done, not many of us have those kind of skills :)

Totally. And there's no way I have those skills, but that's the level of workmanship I wanted on this car. Took me quite a while to find the right guy.

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Are you supposed to do any further prep between priming and topcoat? I hear it should be wet sanded but I hear it needs to be scuffed but I hear to get a topcoat on before the primer is even dried.... 

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You can do either. There's a time period that you can do wet on wet, outside of that you need to scuff

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