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Gaz mk2 goat


Alfadog

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It seems to have sorted itself out aye. Im not sure if it was just new bits bedding in or what but seems funny.

Brakes still a bit sticky so need to pull master out again and check. Right now have other shit more important like cert... then WOF... then oil pressure.

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^^ Yeap had figured something like that. haha.

Brake pedal is sticking a bit. Ive done new Master pistons/seal. Every now and then itll stay on a tad, not alot just a bit. So when you use them next time the pedal goes further to the floor before working. I figured it was maybe something in the bore?

System

4 pot JRZ fronts, some kind of aftermarket pad with heaps of meat still, new fluids, rears adjusted and sweet pad thickness. No booster, single master.

:P

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The complicated version could be the master cylinder is too small and the tiny amount that each piston moves when you multiply by 8 front pistons as opposed to the factory single sliding callipers (or is it twin on a Mk2??) would increase your pedal travel - a bigger piston would increase the required braking effort but increase the volume shifted and reduce the pedal travel.

Could be as simple as

air in the system

or

badly adjusted rear brakes

or

sticking caliper seals - causing the piston to return too far and having to be pumped out again.

I would try clamping off each brake hose successively and see if you can trace which wheel it is or at least whether it is front or rear. Then come back to me.. :-)

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The complicated version could be the master cylinder is too small and the tiny amount that each piston moves when you multiply by 8 front pistons as opposed to the factory single sliding callipers (or is it twin on a Mk2??) would increase your pedal travel - a bigger piston would increase the required braking effort but increase the volume shifted and reduce the pedal travel.

Could be as simple as

air in the system

or

badly adjusted rear brakes

or

sticking caliper seals - causing the piston to return too far and having to be pumped out again.

I would try clamping off each brake hose successively and see if you can trace which wheel it is or at least whether it is front or rear. Then come back to me.. :-)

If it was a volume issue would'nt it do it all the time rather than just sticking on odd occasions? I did think of this but semi cancled it out.

Think mk2 is single. (never had any, dont know lols.

Could be air in system tho its been bled alot of times.. Wondering if a pressure bleed would help. However if it was air then it would be spongy all the time rather than on occasion.

Rear drums are adjusted tight as

I have blanked off the brake pipes already. I think the prob is in the cylinder. Its just catching possiably on the seal like you say. Might have got some shit in there when I put seal in.

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if you are using a master cylinder designed for 2 x single piston callipers (front wheels) and 2 wheel cylinders (rear wheels) but using it with 4 piston callipers, the sheer volume of brake fluid you will have to move to get the pistons to clamp will be substansially more - as explained in a diagram I cranked up for you.

comparesinglevs4potpp2.png

Increasing the overall caliper piston area will increase braking power but you will have to push the brake pedal further towards the floor to achieve braking - it will feel spongy but will pump up to a certain extent which sounds like what symptoms you are describing.

Increasing the master cylinder bore size will decrease braking power while reducing brake pedal travel and make a firmer pedal

Decreasing the master cylinder bore size will increase braking power but you will pay with longer brake pedal travel and a softer feeling pedal

My recommendation is you go for a tandem master cylinder.

I am not sure of this but I believe one with 2 sizes - larger one for the rear brake circuit and a smaller one for the front could be the go

Or possibly a master cyl of the same size bore front and rear with a brake proportioning valve.

Uncle Jake may even know of the top of his noggin the correct car (make and model) to obtain a master cylinder from to near bolt in for the ol Snort-inas..

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My recommendation is you go for a tandem master cylinder.

I am not sure of this but I believe one with 2 sizes - larger one for the rear brake circuit and a smaller one for the front could be the go

Or possibly a master cyl of the same size bore front and rear with a brake proportioning valve.

..

Started replying to this other day but then got sidetracked.

Anyways I looked into new masters a few weeks back. Good thing is the cortina uses the same as trailer ones and they come in huge amounts of sizes and fittings. That was an option... but.. Ive pulled master out and it was jammed a tad. Putting back in tonight so id say thats the prob for the sticky pedal. If it passes WOF with the brakes as is then therer would be no need to change master unless I was unhappy with them. So time will tell.

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Project update? hows she look n for new years? what ya gotten done/still need to do?

Wheel alignment at 11:00 tomoroooow

Cert recheck straight after

Wof straight after (prob wont pass)

Things to do for cert recheck still.

Make/bodgy up some kind of speedo cable.. (making two from one pretty much)

Chuck spring on brake pedal

Wire wipers up to column

Find why front left cator not working

The end.

Gaz

Tell ya 2moro how it goes.

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roffstz, can you tell Blair works in Brakes and Clutches??
^^ Yeap had figured something like that. haha.

Yes But for how much longer???? Fully fucken sick to death of brakes/fly wheels/shoes/calipers/clutches and shit.

but.. Ive pulled master out and it was jammed a tad. Putting back in tonight so id say thats the prob for the sticky pedal.

Looks like you may have found the problem, but as always keep us updated.

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