Valiant

The sad thing is someone will have paid a lot of money to get their sill smashed in like that. How do you find tig welding rust repairs?

This project has been a few years in the making between a friend and I. We've been scrounging parts and looking for bits and talking shit. The plan is to make a good splitter for as little as we can get away with. It needs to be a trailer mounted, with a WOF and rego, upright ram, with a nice big table, good motor, fast cycle times and good force. So here's where I'm up to. All the steel has been recycled and or dragged out of skips around and about. So far I'm quite pleased. It's very heavy, too heavy to weld successfully with my little Mig so it's out with Arc which is rather satisfying. More later.

Good work Chris. It looks too nice to get it muddy and crashed!

What day/date?

Yep. Saturday.

I have a 1940s/50s ish bike in Christchurch if you're interested.

Any updates on this?

I think the wire on the coil neg and/or wrapped around the coil lead are signal for the fuel lock off valve on the liquid line to the convertor. That's how mine works. Wickmyster would you consider a LPG carb on your 250? It might save you some trouble.

Often the they get gummed up with shit in the cooling system. Take the two coolant lines off the carb and blow through the two hose tails on the carb with compressed air, take the radiator cap off and blow air down both the lines to the carb and make sure it blows water out the radiator. Top the coolant up and see how it goes.

ta63-1uzze, The thread says earlier that the cam is mild and that it has just slightly less vacuum at idle than a stock one, suggesting again the cam is fairly mild. That's a good point about the cruise manifold vacuum. I've always found that a mechanical gauge will give a reading at engine speeds above idle on side draught style manifolds. Took too long writing that one.

Good work. It seems a bit odd that you have no vacuum at cruise speed is all. I'd be curious to know why. I wouldn't worry about your booster it's doing what it should, they use a bit of vacuum per brake application. As people have said above disconnect your vacuum advance and set your total timing for around 34 deg.

Have you fixed the manifold vacuum leaks you were having trouble with?

I've come across people jacking the inner guard/top arm mounting points back out and seam welding them as they can collapse inwards over time. Personally I'd look to buy parts locally due to price plus shipping.

Progress progress. Are you going to get the same goon to give those chambers a tidy up? I came across someone in wellington who makes custom length pushrods / I'm sure you can buy them from USA in the length you need.

350 time...

I had similar problems with an alternator, it had a broken wire in the rotor up by the slip rings when it got hot it expanded, opened up the crack and stopped charging. It could be that they have a bad batch of alternators with poor soldering?

Cool. it's not a huge job to get an LSD in your car. You'll be glad of it with your new motor.

Good yeah but there is about 3 different types of Borg warner. 74/75 and 78. some bits interchange and some don't.

You need to know a bit more about your diff. It should have what type it is stamped on the crown wheel you can see it if you take the back hat off. That VL diff will be a 75 series. it seems odd that it is a 4.11 to my knowledge the lowest ratio VL diff was 3.45.

Where's that?

So back to this. Time to look at some hydraulics to get the blade moving. I had one original ram which was a basket case. It was good to have to help work out a size. With a bit of wheeling and dealing I've managed to get this lot together. Two Victor rams, one new one used but both the same size. One used 11cc per rpm hydraulic pump. A new control valve. And about 6m of good condition used hydraulic hose. The new rams have a shorter body than the old ones and slightly less stroke which has worked out well. The blade didn't come up very high by my calculations, so it would have been a prick to put onto a trailer etc. I've moved the mounts back and now it has plenty of travel up and down. This is where the carriage will sit with the blade on, on a level surface. The carriage and associated mounts have been fun in them selves, who ever made them wasn't worried about using all the steel and arc rods.

Take it to the radiator shop. I think they bung the filler and put a bit of pressure in them.

You might have to pull the tank out and see what is going on. Could be a pin hole in the top of the tank etc etc. Cool looking car!

So how's your OCD coming along Clint? Put the motor all together, exhaust and intake manifolds, sump, alternator oil filter, starter motor etc. Lower it into the hole and start moving it around until it all fits. The centreline of the crank needs to be as close as it can to the original but if the motor is a bit offset or on a lean it won't be a problem, with in reason.