Valiant

Hi Matt. Good to see you moving ahead. What's the registration status of that old shell?

Are the tappets set properly? they can be kind of a difficult if you're not used to them.

Cactus!

Three Gal. Three.

What a mess, it looks like it was harder work to do it wrong. Have you had panels acid dipped before?

Hi Matt, I saw you were selling all your X flow bits off and wondered why. Personally I wish I had gone that route with mine to begin with, it looks like some one should get a good deal if they buy it all It's interesting to see that those Milton steering arms are not legal in NZ. The guy that runs 105 speed is adamant that they are, and if they're not then stiff.

You can't tell with only half a car.

I think the science behind the J pipe is to attach a turbo to your motor with the minimum effort and cash outlay. I'd be tempted to make one up with a 1kz or similar turbo as mentioned above and see how it goes. Add an intercooler further down the track if it's working well.

Good stuff. How much more rust is there left to fix?

Do you think you'll be able to sell it after all this work?

Yeah sweet they are pretty hefty old things. Buy the whole car and I'll throw the diff in for free!

Hey Josh, on another note I saw the Datsun @ your work yesterday. It looks fucking sharp. Good work.

Hey Dan I have some Princess calipers we could do a deal on if you want them.

I've been working hard on this and it's starting to look the part. 11hp Honda to power it and an old LPG cylinder for a hydraulic reservoir. Table's all framed up too. Industrial accident is just around the corner!

The sad thing is someone will have paid a lot of money to get their sill smashed in like that. How do you find tig welding rust repairs?

This project has been a few years in the making between a friend and I. We've been scrounging parts and looking for bits and talking shit. The plan is to make a good splitter for as little as we can get away with. It needs to be a trailer mounted, with a WOF and rego, upright ram, with a nice big table, good motor, fast cycle times and good force. So here's where I'm up to. All the steel has been recycled and or dragged out of skips around and about. So far I'm quite pleased. It's very heavy, too heavy to weld successfully with my little Mig so it's out with Arc which is rather satisfying. More later.

Good work Chris. It looks too nice to get it muddy and crashed!

What day/date?

Yep. Saturday.

I have a 1940s/50s ish bike in Christchurch if you're interested.

Any updates on this?

I think the wire on the coil neg and/or wrapped around the coil lead are signal for the fuel lock off valve on the liquid line to the convertor. That's how mine works. Wickmyster would you consider a LPG carb on your 250? It might save you some trouble.

Often the they get gummed up with shit in the cooling system. Take the two coolant lines off the carb and blow through the two hose tails on the carb with compressed air, take the radiator cap off and blow air down both the lines to the carb and make sure it blows water out the radiator. Top the coolant up and see how it goes.

ta63-1uzze, The thread says earlier that the cam is mild and that it has just slightly less vacuum at idle than a stock one, suggesting again the cam is fairly mild. That's a good point about the cruise manifold vacuum. I've always found that a mechanical gauge will give a reading at engine speeds above idle on side draught style manifolds. Took too long writing that one.

Good work. It seems a bit odd that you have no vacuum at cruise speed is all. I'd be curious to know why. I wouldn't worry about your booster it's doing what it should, they use a bit of vacuum per brake application. As people have said above disconnect your vacuum advance and set your total timing for around 34 deg.