mjrstar

That lump in the road upset the rear of my car something wicked too. Ended up driving around it on the r/h side for the rest of the day..

So I would like to make some headlight blanks for my racecar, as there does not seem to be anything available off the shelf. The problem being this is totally foreign to me. But I am keen to learn a new skill. Now if I wanted a rough finish could I potentially just lay up some carbon fibre directly over the outside of the headlight after applying some form release agent? What I thought may work better is splitting the lens off the housing and laying the cf inside the headlight lens to improve the finish? Can I get the bubbles out without a vacuum setup. I do have a hand vacuum pump but assume this would be painful /gutless? These do not need to be show finish naturally. Is there any good noob site to visit to figure out what the downfalls are.

If it's' any consolation my wife's merc was in this week for replacement TPS under warranty. 4 days seems a bit long considering I wrote them a note which diagnosed bad tps. /euro life

At least you know what the vibration is. Maybe bad fuel pickup when low on fuel causing poor running?

Any ther mods you are considering? Like seats, wheels (lowering perhaps) that should be sorted pre-cert?

Fuck Yeah Should be a sweet little sleeper!

years ago I had a later model black 2nd gen 30M diamante, it wasn't a bad old barge went semi hard (for what it was), perhaps a bit ahead of it's time being mid 90's with a 5 speed tiptronic trans. (i think my 2004 wagon still has a pretty similar trans too) Interior of your machine looks pretty similar to how I remember mine.

had near identical issue with the ones in my pos racecivic, turned out they were earthed to a point in the drivers kick panel area and there was a loose bolt, they went from very slow (poor earth) to not working (no earth). tightened up earth bolt and good to go. Could be worth checking, I had assumed they would have been earthed on brackets in the doors but that was not the case.

Looks like i have made technoligy work. Central locator is raised rather than recessed and deeper full width sprocket because twin cam? Pretty sure there is a plate somewhere to stop the belt from walking off the pulley.

@bonkas I have one here but can't upload a photo for some reason. 32mm bore round tooth profile, 30mm thick 44mm dia locating lip. 5mm wide keyway. OD is around 72mm.

I probably have one.. ha

Where in the waikato are you. I can post it or you can pick it up if you wish. It's 12mm ID and from an evo 4 engine I have in bits.

pretty sure the oil thermostat fitting / orientation is fitternt on the DOHC turbo stuff between 6 and 7 bolt, and where the sump meets the oil pump cluster one is flat and the other has a curve or something - its a while ago since I did my VR4 sump mods for the mx5... those pictures don't show enough cam pulles.

Is that drive gear /pulley definitely for the oil pump and not a balance shaft one? Let me know the dimensions of the pulley you need and I will check my stash tonight.

Sounds a bit like fuel pump is giving up the ghost.

I ran my evo in the mid 16 afr's at low load cruise rpm (between 2600 and 3500 rpm) I believe this helped with turbo spool, but that could have been my imagination. It had 4 or 5 counts of transient knock showing on the datalog when you climbed into the throttle in 5th gear but I never lost any sleep over that.

should not need grease - probably crap quality spherical bearing if you can physically feel looseness, a good quality bearing on its own is probably going to sting you $80-$90, it will have a teflon seal and generally last pretty well, although there will be a noticeable jump in road noise and vibration compared to rubber, I ran a set of spherical top hats in my evo and a set on my kp starlet never had any issues with bearing noise. Are you sure the through stub on the shock is the correct diameter and the shoulder on the end of the strut is seated nicely, also did you get a tapered nut or washer for the top side to seat up against the bearing.

Kinda surprised this didn't happen sooner given wheel sizing. Hopefully no major damage to yourself and your motorscoot.

Yeah read that thread about AR1 pity they used a wider tyre in the comparison. I have not had tyres move considerably on the rim, with match marking to confirm, maybe too much lube or big radius on the bead seat area?

nice, When I was running 17x8 38p on my evo 4 I found that anything more than a 225 semi slick caused rubbage in the rear, athough I had only a minor guard lip roll. I will be interested in how the AR1's perform, i have recently splashed out on a set of new NT01's for my hillclimb civic - it was a toss up between them NT01 and AR1. on the turbo side, I ran a evo 9 based TD06sl2-20g and retained the factory exhaust manifold and evo 7+ dump pipe, then into a 3 inch exhaust. this spooled really well with the kelford 264's and still idled nicely, Also I reckon evo 8 wheels are a good look on these things, here is a pic of my old one on the E8 wheels. as you may already know the brembo swap is super easy - i definately recommend upgrading the master cylinder at the same time to a 17/16 unit from and evo 5 + (or mitsi GTO they are the same), plus you will need to trim the dust shields to clear the bigger discs. Pic of my old Evo. http://iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=2t3nvk0u.5lv.jpg

Battery sharn, Dude was throwing out a lightweight 315cca shorai lithium motorcycle battery that 'wouldn't start his bike' Quizzed him on what he replaced it with, oh yeah new battery wouldn't start it either.. heh an electrician you say? Yip I'll have that. Took it home, had 14.15v, left it on the bench for a week, still had 14.14v nice. Internet suggests that ~ 14.1 volts is over 95% capacity remaining.(14.34=100% and 13.3=90%) So yeah new battery for pos racecivic is 1.3 kg's. Starts the car better than the aged full size battery.

I have found your car's long lost brother? I wonder if the issue you have with brakes is perhaps pad choice?

Should go well in that lightweight body if the stock b18cr in my caged ek is anything to go by. It sounds pretty solid in the mid-range before it jumps to the high cam, presumably the off vtec lobes are a bit more aggressive than stock cams which is where good gains can be made. In comparison my ek sounds like it tapers off a bit before vtec kicks in Good stuff.

Be prepared to chock and leave your car in gear. I saw a hydro handbrake race car take off at an event a couple of months ago. Luckily next to a bunch of people that were keen enough to try and stop it.

Had a similar issue with my link, using just the pull to ground for the fuel pump relay would leave some form of earth loop through the ecu when powered down. This is a common occurrence. Adding a +ve switched feed from the ign on position fixed it.