mjrstar

What you are saying is that you have the parts to do a K swap yeah?

I have been using these for a few years now : https://www.amazon.com/DeVilbiss-802342-StartingLine-Gravity-Spray/dp/B000KSTFJO Which have given me pretty decent results. Small gun was handy for hard to reach areas such as the rollcage too.

If you are trying to get down into a tight spot with your mig you can trim down the shield on the tip. Or alternatively have a crack with a stick welder to get the last inaccessible bit.

I have melted brake master cylinder plastic at about that proximity. Also is there a smaller diameter booster readily available. Most cars are over boosted from factory in my opinion.

Chart is broken, it says you can't put a 205 50 15 on an 8 inch rim.

In theory you should still get charge (if the charging system is working) with the engine running if you disconnected the battery and threw it into the bushes.

Sounds like a wire building up resistance when hot? This wire could be the starter terminal if it's hidden under a set of extractors? This wire could also be inside the alternator, or more likely a voltage regulator, which is most likely also inside the alternator. Check alternator plug terminals for corrosion / swap alternator. Check battery terminals, engine / body earth. But first of all check wherever the positive from the battery heads off to.

Does this mean you now have an unconventional belt run? Occasionally if you have pulley diameter which is near to belt free span length (just a pair of pullies not 3 triangulated) harmonic disasters can happen, I have seen early evos repeatably shred a brand new power steer at a certain rpm on a modified belt run. May or may not be related to your bolt coming undone rather than just an rpm thing.

For sure a decent plate lsd and sticky rubber will transform the car, in the dry once above ~30kph my honduh will pretty much accept any throttle postition in any gear with whatever steering angle you wish to apply without a hint of wheelspin.

I seem to recall someone on here used to work there.. I'm interested in a stolen recovered vehicle, but it closes tonight and I can't easily make it to Auckland today to kick the tyres. Wouldn't mind talking to someone about it that has more than 1/2 a clue..

Fun times.. Take a good look at Hans angle requirements, even if you don't currently intend on running one decide on seat position before commencing the cage build. You'll need to Decide if you are going to fully gut the dash and run a dash bar in the cage or not. Then you get deeper into steering colum mounts, maybe eliminating the til column etc. Run the harness bar in the main hoop, not off the back stays if at all possible, it reduces stretch / movement in the shoulder straps. Have a think about how easy it is to get in/out especially how high up you intend to run the junction of the upper door bar and the A pillar bar. The higher this is the more impossible it becomes to get in and out.

If it doesn't need huge flow to operate I'm. Thinking maybe some form of additional oil pump too. Either mechanically driven or even better electric on demand. There will heaps of options for low pressure, (like trans /diff cooler on race car) probably less options for high pressure single state dry sump pump,but I reckon something would exist. Oil pump shimming - Ideally a heavier spring constant of the same free length is technically better than shimming depending on the seat arrangement.

Hey, A work mate of mine had dramas with British spec R154 in his supra, he added a vent as it seemed to be over pressurising as he would go through 1/2 a litre or maybe more during a track session. That fixed his issues.

Yip, went to school with Kade and Dylan. My mums place is maybe half a km from their old place.

Le bons bay, things are looking pretty dry judging by the photos.

Looks like great weather - couple of the photos are pretty close to where I grew up.

Are these single piece buckets? I have a container of over shims /inserts to suit 4age/1ggte (somewhere) When I measured mine up I found that using the smallest shim to feeler gauge the clearance was easiest, it sucks when you install all buckets and there is zero clearance on some because you don't know how much smaller to go..

Yeah possibly not, if only there was some means of forcing air in there a bit faster, perhaps under pressure.

I think someone in Australia did a bunch of work years ago on the old 1ggte cylinder head including cross sectional surgery.. Basically the outcome was the port area yielded next to no gain, small gains at the valve guide transition area, but it was really livened up once some larger valves were added to the equation.. I'm not sure if the same rings true of the 4age, although they would be of a similar Era to a boat anchor 1ggte so maybe the same dude from yamaha/ Toyota in Japan penciled down the initial design?

Crikey that doesn't sound ideal! Bracket wise I thought something like this would have been not too bad to set depth and height.. https://www.tiperformance.com.au/products/ea-eb-ed-ef-el-au-falcon-barra-accelerator-pedal-bracket-for-dbw-throttle/

Probably anything with a Barra. So 2002-2003 onwards? Or ford territory too I guess.

Later model falcon could be worth a look?

Aah right that one I can't get from my Mitsubishi parts stash.

I have a brand new mitsi one in a bag, which you can have so long as you replace it. But yeah these normally last pretty well in a standard application even with a good dose of boost / heat behind them. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/mitsubishi-japan/lancer/CN9A/sngf/intake-exhaust/turbocharger-supercharger/22499 Did I maybe send you a used gasket with the other turbo bits...

Have you tried doing down to a smaller diameter tungsten? And grinding to a very sharp point.