phatt20

ferecla g3 is the cutting compound i use, its mint.

Orbital polishers are shit unless it's for the waxing side of it . As said above get a good rotary buffer, foam pads are cheapish at super cheap, can't remember the cutting compound I use but it's a good one from a bodywork supply shop, I'll have a look tomorrow and post the brand. Microfibres clothes are awesome for buffing afterwards. If the paint is nice and thick , use a 1500 grit Velcro backed disc on a foam backed disc on a festool / decent orbital sander , use heaps of water . Then buff .

loving the attention to detail, nice work.

what was the static comp ratio and duration of the cam out of curiosity ?

high static compression ratio, lower dynamic ratio depending on cam duration.

45s will be ok, its the size of the chokes that will make the difference. looks cool bar the spoiler. i used to have a set of wards on a starlet i had, cool wheels. much rust?

any direct injection petrol engine ive ever had anything to do with has been absolute rubbish.

iv always used the plasticine method , dummy assemble engine with plasticine, coat valves in oil to stop the dough sticking, wind it over a couple of times (carefully) , strip it, cut the plasticine thru the middle of the valve imprint, and measure the thinnest point with verniers. built proly a hundred engines this way and they have allbeen fine. some have been pretty tight tolerance high comp engines (5k with flat top forged pistons/twin squish head @ 13.2;1 sorta thing)

sounds the tits, fcrs make a difference?

looks tidy. how much did the extractors cost to get hpc'd?

7a bottom end? or one of those mrp 9age kits. assuming your a millionare.

sounds like ill be heading up. if you see a red ke11 come say hello

if ya bring it to work ill chuck the scanner on it for you? / gay car dane.

could be keen for this.

nice starlet, guna look real clean. good to see stuff done properly. /should of kept a k in it. lol.

crank looks like its had some work? any pics of the combustion chambers? what size valves is it running? any cam specs? if ya get stuck for any parts i build heaps of these so got most stuff lying around.

should sneak a 5k bottom end into it .

cool car man, gutted bout the engine .what did the motor go like while it was going? know much bout the specs? did it start smoking when it was dying or perhaps just something silly like tight valves/you proly already checked the basic stuff.

sounds like vacuum leak or unbalanced carbs to me, being cv type they idle very smooth even with large cams/cold starts in my experience. they almost never go out of balance unless someone has been fiddling /had carbs split etc too. not to the point of making it idle on two cyl ish like it sounds.

just rebuild the 4afe. i would bet money you can still see hone marks in the bore at 250km . valve stem seals dont usually give too many issues with these its more likely a ring issue. seen a few that dont get serviced enough / short running etc and the rings get all gummed up. got a few customers with these with well over 4-500km on the clock . well serviced they literally go forever.

ill be keen, child/work dependant .

google billzilla

yeah iv fitted a few sets of cbr900 and r1 cv carbs to a few cars and iv always just done the drill thing, its usually close enough is good enough. iv fitted a set of 41 fcrs to a previous toyota 5k build and the throttle response is amazing over cv types. 41 was a bit big for the wee 5k tho was hard to get the jetting crisp right down low to mid. recently got a set of 39 fcrs for my next 7k build so hopefully spot on size wize. be interested to see the gains you make with the swap, im betting they will be pretty satisfying, glad to see you sticking with carbs. look like a tidy set of carbs too.

fucking cool. love how its got carbs, were they much of a hassle to get jetted right?

has moreys got zddp in it?