smokin' joe

is existing cage homologated?

the garage opposite the pub could be worth a shot. i believe he used to be at Turbo Tech in CHCH??

whip them out and run 12v across them, if they don't glow up within about 15 seconds.... they fuxxored. if the vehicle in question is a ford/mazda, i would go out and buy a new set, they seem to last only months in the couriers.

http://www.stuff.co.nz/marlborough-expr ... travaganza really need to get my arse into gear and get the Imp finished. it's our long weekend, and may need all of that to get up and back !!!

therefore leaning it right out ?

wouldn't that method just restrict flow??

this is what i am fuelling twin 40 DHLA's in the Te71, although probably dosn't really need the reulator, if using a return line ( I am not ) http://www.fuelflow.co.nz/FF_cms_03/esh ... gory_id=28 http://www.fuelpumpsonline.co.uk/sytec- ... r-30-p.asp used to have a Facet Red pump in the car, and had similar issues with bogging on acceleration, these may have been prevented with either a regulator, or a return line

looks like one you would use on an EFI set-up. what pump are you using? is it a facet or similar

would have got hold of you, but auction had closed. heading down to imbred town this afternoon.

so, if it is poverty spec, will it still have vented front discs?? 14 or 15 " steelies??

custom engine and gearbox mounts if using 20 spline box. K wiring for gauges all the same. heavy..............very similar to 4age, lighter than 2tg. trim the head, clean the ports, cam it and put a Weber on the 3t cost you stuff all and go as good as a standard 4age

which is fine and dandy if you have a diegrinder to make them fit nicely. hence the reason it started to make them, when the one i bought off him didin't match the manifold and i wanted it to be a clean flowing passage into the head. i would very much doubt Phil can supply the one that is required in the picture above, as the adapters he brings in are usually a four bolt mount like the run of the mill Japp downdraft carbs, as opposed to 2 bolt British carbs

Develo (spl?) used to supply them, and i believe they were made by Bob Homewood. i have one in the shed, but is one of those 'may need it one day items. quite easy to make if you have tooling and don't want it super high. Have made a few Weber to Toyota adapters as well as Weber to Falcon adapter to suit restrictor plate.

coming down for the Palmerston stages, may come futher south, but don't have too much spare time. i see they took the ford out of Shag Valley stage.......... killjoys, just cos an S2000 took a gulp of water!! Westy to win, Ayson in Classics

there was one for sale on Trade Me about 3 years ago in Q'town. coulda, woulda shoulda bought the bloody thing, but as per usual, have too many projects already

was qouted the thick of $2K to get my 2 trailers licences signed off, as all the truck work i have done was rigid body, but already have 3/5 learners licence

vaccum lines need sorting

Hawea + Easter = fail, unless wanting to watch Warbirds 6 weeks ago, i would have picked it up and delivered for you, but alas, am working 50 + a week now.

if you can't buy decent s/hand ones, i used to remove the factory pin bore out and fit D21 navara pins and bushes, but the nissan kits could be spendy now? this is what i used on some, not all toyota hinges. another option is to get 'self lubricating' bronze bushing from an engineers supply and fit your hinge housing and drill to suit the pin

what day was it on?? there were heaps of Z cars on the road between Timmers and CHCH, and a bucket load of MG's cruising around CHCH yesterday.. plus a heap of other cool of stuff cruising in the sun

a certain stockcar owned by a certain forum memeber, had the same issue. but in this case there was a limit screw added to brake pedal, that stopped the pedal from coming back enough to release front brakes. or, there isn't suficient free play in the pedal

used bars leaks for the same situation on the rally car last weekend. good temproary measure, but have to take box out (fuxxored 3rd synrcho) and clutch (fried), if it asks me nicely i might replace frost plug then.

Dave Mc Cahon at MSmotorsport........... if it don't fit, your car is bent

unsure on your logic here, a track car is exposed to far more loads and risk than a road car should be?? logic there is for a track car you do what you want and make it strong, scriutineers call if you pass... this is a road legal car so concerned with rules to pass the cert, and also a way that looks nice that pic is a random, car is bare so i have a clean canvas to work with.... still cant see your logic. track car = hori but strong road car = nice and pretty for cert??

i wouldn't use a riv-nut type arrangement for holding the seat down, in the event of a crash i am unsure whether they would handle they load subjected to . they are perfectly fine for demountable items like radiators /catchcans etc but i personally wouldn't use on seat or extinguisher mounting points. unsure on your logic here, a track car is exposed to far more loads and risk than a road car should be?? if that picture is not the car in question, i would use the same style of crossbars and use a crushtube with the nut on the bottom, or use thick walled tube and tap a thread into it.