Bling

Pretty sure I can make 1st Saturday, 3rd, not so much. Do you need any tools bringing along?

I feel like there should be at least a dozen progress photos between those two. Post em up!

In regards to the clunking, are you sure the piston rod nuts are all the way home? I've had it before where the piston hadn't locked into the top hat correctly and so the piston was turning when I thought it was locked in place. Meant clunky noises. Popped the nuts off, and realigned the piston rod into the top hat (it had a cut out, hadn't noticed it at first), this locked the piston and allowed it to be properly tightened. You've likely already got that sorted, but just thought i'd mention it in case. Or your setup may not be the same. I'd just check by tightening it and checking the piston isn't turning.

Got any tech questions? Spam thread is that way ->

HAH! I just came to post that. Nice work man, I can't even keep up with the updates, let alone that work rate!

No can do tomorrow, will PM.

I'm probably a bit late to the party then. Only just unpacked down here. Keen to try catch up at some stage, Sunday might be easiest? Will pm you my cell if that's cool, in case deets aren't updated in here as to going onwas looking to detour through Wanaka if things were heading that way.

How far are you based from Lake Hayes?

Impressive build!

Yeah in many cases the suspension on super low cars is setup for looks, so performance isn't the main priority. With the likes of weld on sleeves, the springs used are much smaller diameter, so they can sit much lower than factory perches. 30mm of extra spring length will always be good. If I was going super low, i'd go weld on stuff for sure, you can set it up exactly how you want. Using factory perches does limit you quite a bit in comparison. From the photo, it looks like you could even get more than 30mm lower if you went aftermarket weld on sleeve option? Just my opinion though.

Paint it black

That's all good then, should be able to come for a squiz before I go back to work. Will see how house chores go here.

Got a water heater location sussed? (chuck a pic up) Good idea to have a bunch of timber in the wall for fixing for that. 200mm wide by 1m or so, to allow for the height to be adjusted to suit, water heater will be 600mm high roughly. Pics look good when clicked, a lot of work involved eh!

Keen if I can kick some tyres.

I'm going to be in the vicinity of Queenstown at this time, what is happening outside of said car show? I'm down for the concert on the same day. So it rules me out of the car show attendance. But might be able to skive off after concert / or at some point Sunday before heading homeski.

It will be sweet. We have that drill at work, goes hard 4 wot it is. Legit. 2ah is fine too. I use 1.5-3ah at work, all do the trick. I only have a brushed version at home, and use it for all sorts. 18v is way overkill for small home odd jobs. And yeah it does normal drilling. Two speed / Three modes, drill, screw (clutched) and hammer drill. I'm a fan of their gear. With that said, you can get some decent DIY level gear for less moolah from the likes of bunnings / mitre10 these days. So it could be worth seeing what options they have. I'm not talking ozito either. Milwaukee is great if you plan to buy other tools in the range though, I probably have 5-6 tools on the m12 system now.

Are you talking about on a chassis or something you can't put in a booth? I had a supercheap handheld gun in a cabinet, never had any issues with it. IT was just a basic pistol + suction pipe setup. If you're doing it outside, then you'll want to have some respirator half mask or similar if using sand. I had some pink garnet in my cabinet as I don't think it's as bad for you as sand. But it was a sealed booth, so don't take my word on that. tl;dr even basic sandblast tools work, it's just sand blown by air after all.

Forgot to add, either get a local hookup, or try Amazon.com for much cheaper options (same brands). Either try find one with direct shipping to NZ, or bang it on Youshop. Would need to try one on locally though for sizing.

Good and cheap won't exist. By good, I mean one that stops it getting into your eye balls as well as lungs. You only get one set of each, so look after them.

Not OE anchorages if you're adding diy'd bits to them. IMO. Who is to say they are up to the job if a certifier isn't checking. I'd say money well spent getting it certed if safety is the main priority. Just my2c though.

Built a wheel polisher years ago. Had mechanic I use turn up an axle I swapped off someone. A couple of pulleys, a belt, a section of steel beam, some bearing carrier things and bobs your uncle. Used it to polish one wheel. Most expensive polish ever. Have since moved it between three houses which isn't fun given its weight. Plan to polish more wheels in the future.

I was just surprised to be honest. As for if it matters, I doubt it will. Unless you have an off and the car is inspected by insurance.

Wat

Could you trim both to be symmetrical? Frame will need adjusting obviously, but that is easier / cheaper than remaking one side perhaps?

I started fixing some rust like that on my old Corona. I stopped grinding the paint back when I got half way to the other end of the car... Sold it for parts. It's only metal though, if you have the time, patience and skills, it's fixable. Miss that car, I just lacked the space and skills to fix it at the time. I didn't find the rust until after I had shelled out $$ for less rusty bolt on parts. Sold it to someone on here filled with all the spares for cheap. That's my shitty story