flyingbrick

I ended up getting rda slotted and dimpled discs as they were simply the best value for a disc that was properly heat treated and coated etc. DBA were next on the list but 2x the price.

So here is the brake disc after approx an hr. I wet the other one so they were both wet (it was easier than properly drying the already wet one) I thought that the rust removal was only line of sight but it seems not. To be honest I don't know how much further to go? Does the black disappear along with the brown? Here is my first attempt at the floor rust. You can see the balloon of gas there (like when you fart in the pool and ur togs fill with gas lololol) and then with scotchbrite And then after approx 15 min (And now I realise I had taken no more photos.....I went and got takeout, got back, marveled at the amount of sludge and then cleaned out the water etc because iz too scared to leave it going in shed over night without ventilation etc) It is mighty impressive! Plug the power in and it instantly starts fizzing. And I have read realised the rear patches are nowhere near as well glued in as I thought.

Exactly he issue I had. It ballooned the fabric up. So I changed to scotchbrite just to keep anode and cathode separate. Success. Pics soon..it's only been going 15 min

http://www.rickswoodshopcreations.com/miscellaneous/rust_removal.htm

So I have heaps of rusty parts for the ute and have found that there is lots of surface rust/light pitting in my floor SO my interest in rust removal has tripled in the past few days. Why don't more people use electrolysis! I have a bath with brake disc bubbling away outside and I honestly can't believe how quickly it's happening! Cost isn't an issue- you need about 50c worth of Washing Soda (super easy to find eg bin-in) and that's about it! I was using a charger but that was 1a max- now using a 19v 3.5a laptop power supply (cheap) with some alligator terminals. The disc is simply to satisfy my curiosity though. I REALLY want to know if electrolysis can be effective if you don't have a bath of solution.. I'm thinking wet towels soaked with electrolyte sitting in my floorpan with the anode laid on top. I guess it depends on if the electrolyte needs to be free to circulate. What if I made an electrolyte jelly or paste? Yes grinding would work but this is so much cooler.

Sure metal prep is just phosphoric acid and thinners. The acid is like $20 for 1l from a chemical supplies place. You should Google for a recipe if still struggling

Man, a+.

Did u sort mig issues? Did you go to 1.6mm contact tip when you changed the wire? Car looks to be going great!

I'm sure the NRV has everything to do with it.If it leaks it won't bleed air back past the pistons- it will leak out the unload valve before it gets to them That's what I remember anyway. They are right up there - the unload valve stays open. It's the NRV spring that often rusts to shit and causes issues

Oops

So I have done this and am happy with the result, now looking at my firewall and the multitude of holes that need to be patched - could I just cut out the whole firewall-excluding the hard bits like wiper and brake booster mount locations and replace with a clean sheet and a few rolled beads? I could either buttweld the new panel into place OR (easiest for me) leave an inch boarder and plug weld the new sheet every inch or so.

Lol. Ian has draughty holes.

Can you throw up a link to the relevant pages on a forum that works? I'll just watch it elsewhere hehe

Iv seen a shit fan blade that would pull forward with revs and scuff radiator.

My WB and my hz had windscreens glued in using vastly different adhesives. I'd be cautious about leaving any of the old stuff behind as a primer layer just incase the new stuff isn't compatible with it (or incase he old stuff is absolutely fucked for some reason . has to be a reason the screens come out.

Man it's turned out so nice! Those recessed sliding doors are great-imagine normal doors in there lol. Those container doors look like a bit of a pain tho?

Man that speeduino thing is neat. I didn't understand the idea until I saw the prices- pretty bloody good value! I guess it's filling the position MS used to have

I wonder if you could have one half grooved and run an o-ring between the halfs.

Cleaned up all the sharp edges and went back to bare steel on the important glued faces then painted everything in epoxy. Finally glued into place. There's also rivets top and bottom where they can't be seen. The washers were glued onto the new panel so that the two edges were easy to align.. I'll knock them off when the glues dried and all the rivets are in.

I know I have seen this setup on TV before- there was a race (I'm sure it was to do with Bathurst) and the undercar cam showed it in operation- I think they said it was as far as they could take that axle setup to stay within class rules. Driving me nuts because I can't find more on it.

All loctite iv found has softened with heat. Just smash it on there and if ya struggle later then wack a torch or heatgun on it.

No doubt possible but I'd make a bolt on adaptor if I was you. Edited.

Why not check out the sr20 forums. They use single and quad throttles on the same basic motor and I bet you can find heaps of threads about it. As David has said- the time taken to empty the plenum is SFA...but even if it WAS a significant difference, who cares. Ditto with the engine sound thing. Once the motors running you won't care two shits what it comparatively sounds like. Basically, don't end up like ME stressing over numbers on a piece of paper. It's a downward spiral into huge unfinished project territory and I owuldnt wish it upon anyone

It's all gone for me too mate and gone from the Hamb too Hosting is on http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk

Did they remove the spear from the shock somehow?