flyingbrick

man you did a good job of repairing that hood damage! I wouldn't have known where to start

Oh wow, that motor is HUGE. I vote minibike frame

I wouldnt go wasting loctite money on loctite superglue. Been using all different brands for 20 years and havent seen a cyanoacrylate of any price fail to work as intended. And yer its great for sticking rubber!

Very sad Chris. Edit, But also hope you are all good.

If that was a new bike available off the shelf I bet it'd sell well

I highly recommend jeremy at cullen engineering at tearoha if ur bits small enough to have them send

Mine isn't that flash compared to others out there., I think mine was reduced to around 900$ from $1200 but guys spend many times that amount. Like everything else though- My skills cannot match its abilities so buying better is no help. I just like that i can practice at home in the city. Cant do that with guns

Its not a laser pointer but a (nearly) zero parallax red dot sight. It projects a red dot onto a curved piece of glass and the dot stays on target regardless of your heads position. Absolutely brilliant on bows.

I made this red-dot mount for my bow.

You got it right in my opinion

I heard installation was a breeze

Where do ya buy ur stuff from to do that for $1? (sorry to go so off topic chris)

Hey man. Should just use an arduino nano. Probably cheaper and infinately more variable.

damn that interior looks comfortable!

I do hope this doesn't happen as the melting temp of the glue is around 150 degrees

I am REALLY happy with how this has turned out. MY PCB/little relays work as they should and its all been potted in hot glue and tests A+. I ended up using a little LM1084 voltage regulator and some little capacitors and tiny prototype board to get down to 5v. The relay PCB is wired to the arduino using little wires salvaged from a broken USB cable Basically- the wires coming out of the left just get connected to switches in the vehicle (like the handbrake or gear indicator switches) and the wires on the right get fed 12v to close the relays switch (eg, 12v from the headlights ) I used hot melt glue because it was cheap, fast and easy (pretty much my life motto). It looked like shit until baked in the oven for 10 minutes at a low temp. Its an awesome thing to do on electrical shit like this and its turned from being a fragile heap of shit to a robust heap of shit.

Bought some solder paste and cooked things on an element. Probably got it all too hot but wont know until i test it All the connections and tracks work

definately try running it first before you go bore it larger and fuck it LOL

I do know they wear very quickly. And are expected to go out of tolerance fairly quickly. I worked with a guy who raced nitro buggies. To save on rebuild costs he had machined a tool that would accurately crush/ squeeze the liner to get the bore back into tolerance. Seemed to work pretty well! ( He also machined his own heads with huge heatsink fins so he could run more aggressive fuels)

Thanks Ned! Hope you are well

Looks like its only for TFT displays which (in my opinion) are fuckin terrible for auto application due to very narrow viewing angle (on the few that i have seen anyway) . I'm not sure if large OLED screens are even available but they are really the only type worth spending money on The slow processing speeds are not really a problem if you design your interface to compensate- EG make the information to be sent as small as possible.

I used Circuit Maker but then sent it to work email as a PDF, then imported into CAD, resized it to scale and then printed. To be honest I must have tried about 5 programs and all of them seemed difficult as hell to use. I understand people might need auto routing and 1 million layers etc but I didn't and the complexity sucked. I couldn't even work out how to change track width so ended up with these tiny lines that could have been 2x the width. About ironing on the laser print- I tried about 5 times- my first attempt was half adhered. My second attempt is the one i used. My 3rd, 4th and 5th attempts were worse than the first despite trying every single tip I could find (getting the copper super clean, scuffing with steel wool, water, soap, dipping in acid etc etc etc) Am a little tempted to send the file to a professional and just spending the $$ to get it done nicely with pre drilled holes etc.

I made a little PCB!! This one is the result of my second attempt at ironing the transfer to the copper. it was not perfect but good enough for me- unfortunately my sharpie has a thick tip so was hard to touch up any missed bits. This will hold my 6 little relays.