flyingbrick

Why didn't I think of that

Did he paddle out to point of splashdown with a tape measure?

Agree!

Ratshit. You OK?

That's shit. Too much power for ya friend?

Did ya find out what went into the engine? Good ya got that rust dealt to. Was that an old repair?

Fuck it looks great now! Man I'd kill for that as my daily. Where are ya working on the car? Is that a Ferrari I see?

More pics

Perfect

What's it say? Too high is OK, helps impress all the ladies

How accurate is the HP thing? Does it measure based on vehicle weight/ acceleration or injector duty cycle?

tyre swans are not suitable ornaments for the safety conscious fireplace operator.

Nothing wrong with a little toe

Maybe dumb q but why's copper better? Just coz weaker ignition system?

Yep done cf. Vac bagging is cheap. All you need is the plastic and a pump plus a catch can for the resin. Fridge pumps are perfect for this. The vac infusion method is cool BUT you can still end up with dry spots. Just as easy to wet it out by hand and then place in bag. The bag ensures that everything is sucked tight into the mould and only the bare minimum of resin remains. You really need to vac it to get the layers of cloth and the fibers really tight together. It also must be hard separating the two rigid moulds from each other with your part in the middle!

OK so the mould should be sanded smooth then sealed with a durable paint/epoxy then sanded, then polished with finer and finer grades of paper and polish till its like glass. Then million coats of wax and buffing. Then.. Ditch the underside mould and get some mylar and a vacuum pump (like a fridge pump). Apply a layer of resin/ gelcoat with a roller or spray gun and let it go green before you lay on the cloth. Do the cloth and resin thing then place in a mylar bag that you made earlier.. Seal up any holes with duct tape and tape in a hose to ur vac pump. Have a vac tank catch can thing inline so any excess resin is caught before it goes into the pump. Sorry if telling you to suck eggs but vac bagging is really the only way you will get a light and strong professionally looking piece.

Fuck yes looks like a tidy little thing. Don't see many round that's for sure

Good point its stayed polished. Nice. Hurry up and test fit wheels

Looking good man. I'm damn impressed with ya valve cover paintwork... Looks professional as! Easier than grease may nave been just running a file over top of fins when paint dries?

Happened to be at farrels and asked about your bearing. He made some calls and was like BADLUCK

Give car a vinyl racing stripe. Line stripe up with weld to cover it. Lawl

Fuck lost post. Just Google 6206. Very common bearing.

Can you measure old bearing to find C1 and D3 in the drawing above?

Fuck lost my post. Kicker is right a 6206 is your best bet unless you can find the genuine article. Engineering shops should have no issue with the sleeve. The only issue I see is with C1 in the drawing.. It looks like it extends inward of the inner race. You need measure your old bearing to see if that step and extended outer race can be incorporated into the sleeve or if a fixture will need to be made to grind a recess into the outer race

Personally I'd be using thicker ply and cutting lots of slots on the inside of each bend. That way you will get flat areas and curves exactly where its wanted plus the ply will be much less resistant to warpage from the glass. The curves will be made out of lots of flat lines but 5 minutes with a sanding block will fix that.