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Testament

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Everything posted by Testament

  1. more complete info which I think that stuff in the first post must have been got from. pity the link he quotes at the beginning for the original source appears to be broken http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/showthread.php?65106-R154-motor-compatibility
  2. Yeah that was what got me looking at some things, it pretty much similar price between new r154 and a used t56 marlin crawler has some good info too http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=3ac7a8abafd82e14ee1f71673e444f18&topic=2972.msg23634#msg23634
  3. Came across this in my travels across the interwebs. might be useful for someone to know the r154 matches up to quite a number of things potentially. A340 is similarly used behind a bunch of different things you probably didn't realise
  4. Testament

    PAINT THREAD

    just ask yourself, what would pwestonlmvd do?
  5. VSS signals? any pro or con to having more or less pulses per rev? the hubs I have for the drag car have abs tone rings I could use as is, or I could cut them down to a smaller number of teeth if I had to. planning to use something there plus some sensor picking up the bolts on the diff head flange or something like that to enable speed based power management/launch control/traction control.
  6. having to recert isn't the end of the world. I think people are more scared of it than they should be. but maybe selling your 304 and buying a chev would not be all that different cost wise and less work to do. if you want to tweak things more later I would definitely be considering chev, more stuff available etc. but maybe you prefer the sound of the holden motor, or just would like to have a holden with a holden motor? basically you just have to decide what you want, neither is right or wrong.
  7. much jiggery and pokery and measuring all of the things with the axle at different heights to check and recheck what length to make the arms to have enough adjustment as mentioned previously and not have the axle hitting c notch before bottoming out on bumpstops. which i ensmallend as I could tell that was going to happen anyway...... then in a burst of motivation following sunday night tacos i threw the front suspension back in to get it on the ground. so on bumps rolls easy and nothing rubbing or touching. will put some blocks under it tomorrow to set it at ride height to sort pinion angle stuff and maybe drop the motor and gearbag in to measure for driveshaft
  8. Testament

    PAINT THREAD

    what about seam sealer?
  9. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_Hand_(Serbia
  10. put shocks and original lower arms in so i could position things to figure out length of upper links. cant test with the original uppers because changing from the clevis type attachment with bush in the diff to a rod end. found diff flange hitting floor so cut out that bit of the tunnel sketched things up to avoid fuckups since the 4130 tube is not for the wasting, and need to ensure rod ends have 1.5 diameters of thread engagement. This means even with things being adjustable you still only have about +/-8mm which isnt a huge amount when split between needing some part of that to square the rear axle, some amount to set the pinion angle and some amount to set the fore/aft position of the wheels in the wheel tub.
  11. keen for 130 sedan or coupe, full 1970s mafia spec
  12. no updates for a while but plenty of work going on welded swaybar mount in fully and finished welding fuel tank frame fully built a sheetmetal folder, something id been thinking about doing for a while started making up some of the new sheetmetal to fill in the giant holes in the back of the car then realised i needed to know there the top of diff etc would end up to know how high the piece infront of the shock mount needed to be so better get onto the diff mounts. being triangulated 4 link the uppers are pretty tricky, exacerbated by the fact that diffs are almost inevitably asymmetrical so no part of any of the brackets is the same left to right etc. had to make up a bunch of bushes for the rod ends to set the width of the mounts. much mess and nearenoughommerty on shonky old american lathe more precision cad work twelve hours to make upper mounts over 2-3 days, less than one hour to fit laser cut kitset lower mounts shock mounts tacked on and test fit of wheels, all seems to clear so far 11pm - time to test fit to car fuck. solid race swaybar is in the way. 11:15pm - no spiders to be taken to prison for rogering, bugger the neighbors this time, out with angle grinder all the way hard up into the c notch 11:30pm fuck yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee ground clearance present, wheels turn and dont rub. all that measuring and trigonometry magic did actually work. so much work still to do but gotta take the feelsgoodman.jpg for the moment
  13. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/shop-tools/2530753-400-cdn-cnc-plasma-table.html
  14. i wouldnt blame the zinc primer too much - tig welding just will not put up with anything except bare metal. you get away with welding over zinc rubbish with mig a little and with stick where the flux deals with the rubbish but tig nope nup nada gotta be clean metal no primer of any kind or the devil will come out of nowhere on you
  15. will work If you can't fit bigger but single 3" at that power level will be choking things somewhat. 3.5" has significantly more area you can make it fit. Or oval/rectangular is another option, you need about 50mm x 150mm to match the area of 3.5"/90mm tube
  16. with steel sch40/standard weight/medium is generally thicker than what would be needed but its generally the most common so cheap and easily available. sch10 is more common for stainless, because as stainless doesn't corrode much at all you don't need to allow for that so you get away with a thinner material when designing pressure piping. so basically for price and availability, not due to material properties or engineering reasons. @Vintage Grumble may be able to assist? or know an Auckland colleague whos hands could be shandied? otherwise yeah, steel and tube, HJ asmuss, maybe blackwoods paykels? or any general engineering supply place that supplies industrial welding stuff should either have or be able to tell you to go see xyz and tell them so and so sent you. just make sure you tell them you are using it to build a sweet turbo plymouth/valiant and they should hook you up if they are any kind of proper barry engineering supplier with girly calendars and drag racing and speedboat posters.
  17. +1 "really high fuel pressure" is not a number - what was the actual figure? the usual number is 43.5psi/ 3 Bar but some manufacturers occasionally run more or less. someone will know what a 4age is supposed to have if its different. if the fuel pressure is within a few psi of where it should be, then to run rich the ecu is telling the injectors to put in more fuel than the engine needs. not sure what the setup on your 4age is but it will be using some combination of air temperature, coolant temperature, manifold pressure, engine speed, throttle position and air flow (may use manifold pressure and speed, or a direct measurement via air flow meter). so would pay to check the wiring and the readings of those sensors where possible. if it is running overly rich everywhere, then at idle the ignition probably has enough poke to light off the mixture but not when under load so it will start running shit when you try to accelerate hard or go up a hill etc.
  18. A bit of both maybe? the front end is pretty short on these fiats but looks like the overall length is more than the sedan? could be eye tricking mind though. but yeah, these things are sweet, the world needs more small utes. don't know why no one sells can small utes in this country anymore. I guess just lack of small rwd platforms on the market.
  19. mounted up fuel pumps. enough pump for 1000hp on e85 . Current motor/turbo etc won't make that much but decided to put the extra pump in now. more of everyone's favourite CAD design program tacked on patch and sump fitted up, bracket for fuel filters welded on then ran out of argon so stopped and watched the last couple of hours of Bathurst
  20. Who knows, it might make the dB limit with the turbo and baffle type muffler? nice to know its exempt though, was not aware of that one. Had in the back of my mind I could modify the boom tube to fit some internal furniture for additional muffling if necessary.
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