CUL8R

Why not just make a gasket from thicker gasket paper, that would fix your clearance issues and not require any creative work..

Diggas Brake & Clutch I think it was did my cables yonks ago. They used to be in hornby?

If you're in a pinch on the weekend take some spanners and a tube cutter to pick a part - just go for a mix of vehicles lol

+1 please do continue, you'll fit in just fine with the errant side stories/projects within a project You're not wrong how rare the MS51's are, I presume they're even rarer here? A friend has one down here - I sent him the link

Nice work Josh, will be even more ace with the black outs, did you buy that 340 yet?! Satin Black Bonnet too or just the scoops? - Out of interest did you work out how rare that bonnet is - doesn't seem that common? These two seem more prevalent?

Nice work, pleased to see your research and hard work has paid off. Look forward to a update once you've had a chance to give it a good run in the dry and tell us what the butt dyno says lol

The shank part 16.1mm normally if that helps. Some wheels have enough room around the stud holes. Others need to be drilled out to suit

Could you just have used drop shank wheel nuts - if they fitted your wheel no need to change studs and would pick up roughly 3 turns of thread... They come in a few styles, plain hex, spline drive, open ended and closed (black or chrome too)

14x7 - JJ is just the bead type (irrelevant for pretty much everyone) ET is what you're looking for, but I suspect that would be stamped in the rim itself. Those rear tyres are old as the hills, they had discontinued those Firehawks at least 12-15 years ago.. There would be either a 3 digit number on the sidewall (pre 2000) or 4 digit number. First two digits are the month, last digit or two digits are the year. To note, the date stamp is only on one side of the sidewall. So I'd expect your fronts to be something along these lines ; 2718 (27th week of 2018) , and rears to be perhaps 498 (49th week of 1998)

Ah those are the Speedy Wheels (cragar copies) which just use tapered nuts. It'd pay to put them on a balancer and check the runout on both rim and tyre. Checked the front wheel bearings too?

TBH tyres look a bit oversized for it, Im surprised its not rubbing in the front lock to lock? We normally Recommend 215/65r15 fronts, and 235/60r15 rears (judging by your rims they're 15x8 et0 all around) . Those early Mustangs 66-69 really don't take a massive/wide wheel without issues The shaking is most likely those Cragars/Keystones with their horrible offset washers. Basically your whole wheel will be gyroing on the hub. No one makes them AFAIK but a engineer could spin you a couple of CBL rings to locate the wheel to the hub 100%, and then your offset washers will line up perfectly.

Was waiting for Simpson to suggest a Holley in that spot lol!

What motor is in it? G200z, G200W or 4xe1? Ive got a radiator and g200w from the last one I wrecked

You could make thicker body & camper mounts - that would give you increased clearances. Also taller tyres to help with ratio a little even with your diff ratio change

Haven't fixed one before, but would it be possible for the likes of a plastic bumper repair specialist/welder to do? Assuming of course they're happy to touch it?

One of the Chch guys on here has a 3.5 Rover v8 for $300 ono from memory too

For the record I think the Chevette and viva indicators are the same, I agree have to be very very careful with the springs, plungers etc as they can fly out very easily!

Why not have "holes" in the chassis rail for exhausts to go through, with suitably thick doubler plates with a return edge for strength?

https://nzsafetyblackwoods.co.nz/en/armadillo-replacement-clear-visor-each-112018?gclid=CjwKCAjwur-SBhB6EiwA5sKtjmjMbFgcTd60ibiG7krsv0Irbj-ejvK1otrySA4J1Tkh5lyk2L_9NxoCxMwQAvD_BwE This is what you need, after having to go to doctors 3-4 times with metal splinters embedded in my eye, and having them scraped out. No problems with huffying up - I also use a 3M respirator underneath as I got sick of all the grinding dust up my nose etc.. That way you can still wear your normal glasses, and protect your whole face.. (Im not blind, nor do I wear glasses lol)

When I re-registered the Gloria, I needed a signed letter from a JP with ownership documents along with vehicle vin/chassis number for proof of ownership. You can use a lawyer or go to the local police station too.. I then took that paper work with me when it went through for recompliance at Vinz/VTNZ

I too saw that on there, and with the way the MK1 Prices are thought it wasn't a bad deal - not that I wanted to buy it, but saw it, and thought surely a Rally guy will snap that up! +1 For getting a dream car, and some form of redemption back!

Well done, sounds even better with the wide belt too! Im impressed its running that smoothly straight off the bat! Have heard varying stories about how easy they are or aren't. Id say most is operator error tbh

Did you go out and collect the centre console and steering - see the limo that it came from in person? We've got 3 of them, all in various stages of rot and shoddy 80's-90's spec workmanship...

Id try getting a quote through Pack Send from Australia, they offer very competitive prices and sharp turn around I brought over a gearbox and had it here within a week

Why not just mount the Axle ontop of leaves instead of underneath? Then you can make a riser for the coupling to mount on the drawbar to get the heights right