Honda Ass Dragger

its not somthing silly like a blocked fuel filter?. I reckon this mans got it Had a similar problem with mate in CHCH a few years ago at d1, car keep cutting out would run fine for a bit but would then jsut cut out tried everything, had car on dyno, all sorts of crazy metres, tried everything then last resort the tuner was like have you checked your fuel filter opened it up cleaned it out and bang wollah problem solved

Looks good man, the skyline t3 should see you right, if your worried about it, it may pay to get it rebuilt before you start id advise getting steel wheels fitted that way you can run more boost with out having to worry about the ceramic exhuast wheel ending up jammed in your rear muffler Nice looking plenium and Manifold as well, great to see no external (I hate external's that vent to atmo also hate people who fit them jsut for the noise they make) can't wait to see how this progress's

This man speaks the truth There got to be a reason that the brown datsun that owns the ss2000 series runs a basically stock s2k motor, I belive they did put some TODA cams into the engine but couldn't get anymore form it It's always best to follow the path well trodden, look at what other have done and improve on there work Also remeber the manifacture always knows best, there will always be reason as to why a manifacture has done somthing in a particuler way Remeber they spend $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ creating new motors

Sweet man, good to hear make sure you have everything correct before beating on it Maybe an idea to see if you can get it run up on a dyno to make sure the a/f's are all good as well

damn man thats awsome how well those mounts worked Could you not jsut use a pajerio box and remove the transfer case like alot of people do with gtr gearbox's? I really like where this is heading that v6 will sound way cooler than any 4g

Intresting looks like you have a great oppourtunity to build a really crazy hybrid of a motor Should be a really cool conversion once completed Yeah turbos down by strut towers should be achiveable witha bit of work, twin td04s should work really well, I jsut keep getting bad thought thoughts as i have seen a s13 with a 300zx motor in it from a HPi magazine with front mounted twin gt28/71rs Should sound awsome completed there somthign about the noise the mitsi v6's make

Hey Man I notice that you are going to use the Mivec motor how much better flow do the MIvec heads provide, would it be enough to justify a couple of evo 3 td05s Also what the rev limt on these things compared to a 4g63?

This is looking pretty dman sweet man 1jz will be super sweet Please no external, let the JZ speak for its self, externals make the worst sound in the entire world

Thoughts Opinions, Comments ?

Why Build a Car When you can buys something someone else has already poured $$$$$$ into and you can buy it for half what they have spent on it So here is my New Toy Picked it up form Wollongong yesterday and stealth drove it back to Sydney as it has no rego at moment will sort out next pay day, Its not cheap to buy a car in Austrailia List of Costs Compulsory third party insurance = $600 Stamp Duty 3% of purchase Price Rego = $300 Anyway list of work done to car: ENGINE + DRIVETRAIN: -20 valve 4age, silvertop, quad throttle bodies. -Running of a microtec lt10s with the ignition module running 4 Bosh coil packs. -Oil cooler and oil filter relocation kit. -Surge tank with bosh lifter pump and bosh main pump -t-18 diff with 4.1 locked centre. (drum brakes) -Hyundai excel radiator (never overheats) -Exedy heavy duty clutch SUSPENSION: -Coilovers in the front. (6kg) -4kg springs in the rear with KYB shocks. -Front and rear strut braces. -Whiteline Adjustable panhard rod. -Chrysler sigma LCA's -RA40 tie rod ends, tubes. -AJPS extra steering lock spacer -power steering arms on none power steer rack (for those that dont know = massive lock) -30mm roll centre adjusters EXTERIOR: -Uras body kit, (front bar, rear and side skirts.) -TRD copy Duck tail. -Dmax +25mm copy front guards. -Sun roof. -SSR meshies 14'' by 7(front) 7.5 (rears) +14 offset, painted gloss black -uras front bar indicators -jdm headlights -painted mazda winning blue, off white painted engine bay (front gaurds, bar are painted matt black as previous owner had a slight mingle with a tree, cosmetic only, not structual, front bar and gaurds were replaced by new items) INTERIOR: -Sparco fixed back bucket seat -Water temp, oil temp and oil pressure gauges on dash. -Taco/rpm gauge mounted infront of old taco. -Drift button installed to handbrake. -JVC head unit with 4" sony explode speakers in original dash spots. -Deep dish steering wheel. Is totally engineered for all modifactions so once I get some more rego can drive on the road anytime Here are pics from the sale add, I intend to get more this weekend Future Mods: Wait to get my Tax back (Shuld be massive as I havnt been here a year yet) I will then send it to Panel Painter to get the fron end tidyed up and will get a Glass Bonnet Then hopefully can get to Oram park before it close's Also Blond girl is ex owners missus and she didn't come with the car

Good choice, Defantly go and see Brendan at A1 or Steve from Motorsport engineering then After you get this done it would be great if could advise us as to what they did and why and also let us know of any increase of performance You may also need a retune as well afterwards to ake sure the A/Fs are still all correct BTW what is you hp goal?

I don't think the flow charticeristics of this turbo will be any better than what he already has unfortinatly, plus he would also have to get a new Manifold made as it would have a t25/28 flange instead of a t3 flange High flow will be your cheapest and best option

as above. pretty sure just about all skyline turbos are bb Only R34 got BB Turbos Yes Rb25 turbos are BB All Rb25 turbos? Yes all RB25DET Turbos from Series 1 right through to the New Neo motors have BB turbos Incorrect, all of these turbos will fly apart if forced to operate out of there effecnty range, Thats why as you stated above look at a compressor map

Nothing at all it jsut that it takes some type of intellegence to set them up(some people lack this and some people are jsut lazy) A megasquirt well set up will work as well, if not better than a Link MS is only limited by the person setting it up, A link is always limited by what they sell to you As with a MS you can do what ever you want so long as you have electronic knowledge and the software knowledge

I also vote the high flowed option You need to firstly think about what your goal's are How much more power do you want to make? Where do you want to make this power? Are you happy to lose some bottom end while gaining more in top end? I don't think you can really make a decsion on you choose of turbo until you know the answers the to above questions As for brands stay away from anything Chinese Masterpower is a good option if you know what sizew turbo you require, Bazada off Toyspeed is very knowledgeable about this particular brand, maybe worth sending him a Pm or an e-mail with what your requirements are and see what he can offer you from the Master Power brand The other option as mentioned by a few people above it to talk to Brendan from A1 turbos about what options you have avible to high flow your current unit But rember jsut becasue you are putting more boost into a motor doesnt mean you are going to make more power An example of this i have is from a friend expernce of turbed sr20's He started with a non turbo s14 which he slapped a s13 t25 onto and had tuned to run 15psi with 1 extra rx7 injector, this set up made 158kw He then picked up a s15 t28, which was fitted up the car was then strapped to the dyno and made 191kw on 10psi, it needed another extra injector to be fitted up as the airflow on 12psi form the t28 was so much more than the air flow from the t25 on 15psi Best thing you can do is actually talk to someone who works with turbos, tell them what your answers to the above questions and they will come to you with the best solution Steve Murch from Motorsport engineering is also very knowlegdeable on this subject, usally contactable via the MAP ecu website R34 only R33 and R32 turbos are standy Yes Rb25 turbos are BB

Ok Hilux Diffs First of all don't buy the first one you come across, take some measurement of you exsitng diff and go shopping for one that is very close to the orginal length I found there are legre range of hilux diff, when i was hsopping for one for my 86, i managed to find one that was only 2cm wider than my standard diff, so it worked out an extra 10mil per side once it was converted to disk break rear running ae92 calipers and s13 discs Saved me the effort of getting the housing narrowd and the axels shorted which = $$$$$$ Do some measurements, then go shopping

http://www.d1nz.com/forum/viewtopic.php ... e233b0a197 Hey not sure if this will be hlepful to you, but a mate and I used this link to do this Diff in his S14 worked a treat

Starsharks FTW Widened Steels so epcially lame it not funny, like a cheap repco spinner hubcap for people who can't afford decent wide rims IMO

Been reading this thread with interest. I have noticed Zeps thread as well as a sticky at the start of the general thread, after trawling through heaps of pages I can to the conclusion that no one on this site has a firm definition of what Old School is, everyone has different opinions and views I notice that the Shuttle is not classed as old School, yet it is an 80tys vehicle, same as rr30 skylines, ex lancer, dx corollas. What makes then old school and the shuttle not old school? As stated further up the rebuild of a 01 Lotus is ok but this car is not, the Lotus is most defiantly not old school. I think before anymore cars are banned a definite set of definition of old school need to be made. This cannot be based on brands or models of cars it needs to be date defined as well and all cars below that date are counted as old school, not matter what they are. They should also be rolling so that every year it increases by one year allowing new cars to also be classified as old school. This is all stated IMO Thoughts suggestions I was thinking maybe start with a cut off of 1985, removed all vehicle form build thread that are produced after that date, then same time next year increase it to 1986. Again just a suggestion Chur Justin wtf thats so stupid. You're an idiot. deal or no deal i think shuttle is oldschool. U gun turn this into the new hoodride. or rotahavik i dont get why u needa remove shit its not like poojects is cluttered with stuff. member isa member and people are interested to see what theyre doing even if it is just a honda shuttle. better than reading about same old same old fuckn escort project. i vote gaz for primefailminister in the next election. holla u gump ass nicca edit: should note that im just trying to start a fight. i realy dont give two hoots what happens on this site it turned into a place of gay a long time ago Dude how much crack have you smoked over the course of your life time to allow you to dribble so much shit?

Axle lenghs are defantly differnt, I'm not sure by how much, but I know that if you install a LSd in a diff that was orginally NON lsd you need to the get the axels shortend by a very small amount else you end up damaging the LSD

I have jsut realised that I miss Veega coming into these threads and telling everyone that he knows everything then arguing till he's got brused typing fingers Bring back King Know it all Please

I have used a Blitz Dual level controller and a Profect B They both worked great The Blitz did struggle when boost levels got above 20psi, the profect B I have used never had any issues with boost control was great, jsut took a while to get set up and working correctly

Awsome pinto, love your workman ship In regards to the turbo another option could be a hybrd wrx td05/06 as they will use the same flange they are well know to make good power, I'd be speaking to Steve Murch at motorsport engineering Is the vf34 bigger than the vf22 for the earlier model as it might also be larger or if your really crazy an apexi rx6 might do the job, they are a really large vf turbo as apexi use ihi turbos

TD's are made by Mitsubishi Trust turbos are all made by Mitsubishi HKS are made by Garret Apexi are made by IHI Blitz are made by KKK Yeah Bang on Gaz if it wasn't a good turbo Mitshubishi wouldnt have put them on every evo until the 10

haha yeah i noticed Mean cheers for the advice Toyota Drifter, appreciated. All good turbo's are an intresting topic, the more i research them the more i find that basic good vlue rebuildable turbo's are a better option TD sereis turbo's can be rebuilt for around 400 bucks a high flowed rebuilt steve murch job is around 800 and will give you enuff flow to make 300kw Ball bearing turbo's are great but a well desgined manifold and correctly choosen turbo size can work jsut as well, except for coming on a boost a few 100 rpm later