tortron

Figuring some stuff out along the way I made a few changes to my set up Double checked my fitment against original panels Using steel plate to give sharper edge to the cup. Also fitted a small offcut of tube to punch the centre hole out. I should in the future press 2 sheets together to ensure the cups fit together nicely. I repressed the floor section with this one to make sure

confirming that the depth is correct with unstitched cab mount. Then throw a bend in it. This is the floor layer and the bend is spot welded to the inner sill. I dug out a bit of steel I made up last time (just some 4 mm flat with a circle cut in it to match the male die) using this along with the ply gives a nice sharp edge to the cup and looks like factory

I was able to confirm that the wee cup die I made was exactly the right shape and depth With new toy - 20 ton press I could make this side a bit differently and with a lot less hammering Sheet metal is pinned between two ply bucks and a little hammering to shrink the stretched metal and we are doing good

This ment I could just make a big hole for access. Which is handy as this sides mount/floor is in better condition and I can take some decent measurements

Picked some scabs on the passenger side. Didn't want to, but there was an obvious hole in the cab mount. Then I wondered about the sill, I have another so may as well check it out hole at front of sill I knew about/forgot about from when I did the firewall and inner guard repairs many Easters ago. This side has had its sill replaced too. And that means the old one is still there, it's just been half cut out, the edges hammered in, a replacement riveted on top, and then several layers of bog on, between, and under them.

Also get the green zirconia belts, they don't fly to bits as often

I have a black and decker electric finger sander This is my 2nd one as the front wheel wears out. I'd make a new one on a lathe once a year if I had one as the rest works fibe Probably get a Makita one when this one wears out

I took apart my mitsi sender and made the commodore gubbins fit it. You could do the reverse.

They don't have to work if they are covered

What did reshaping the seat involve? Just shave some off and reuse the of cover? Looks good

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/vintage-parts/accessories/listing-2595956024.htm?rsqid=e53d334fdec84c6d838f1705684580df-001 are you sure

you wont need the isolator on the head. you could fit one at the carb end. its to help with heat soak, if the carb is away from the head it wont be an issue

looks rad

CV carbs like to suck still air

also interested. or id like a sheet of at least 50mm thick, 300x300 or bigger. duro of about 60-70

does it have a big cam in it?

2k hardens by a chemical reaction It will happen faster with increased temperature. But is not required, it just speeds it up. Too cold and the solvents won't evaporate from the paint fast enough and give a poor finish Too hot and you can harden the outer layer and trap solvent inside Takes about a month for a paint job to be truly hardened

Level sender, oil heater?

yeah mine was out by about that for 20 years from when it was certed these were sold as dodge ram 50's / d50s in the states. so cheap parts off rock auto www.mightyram50.net if you haven't seen it yet

is it anodised aluminium? some oven cleaner will strip the black off

Pretty much. I put a 2nd gen LSD in mine, it's 4.22 but suits me. Starion ones fit

now im kinda disappointed you didnt go for some retro fisher and paykel service van logos haha

never had an issue with using them on a grinder. even on big long panels.

wire cup brush on a grinder would be my go to

some "pros" used to (and some still do) just spray the whole lot and sand to shape. i guess they figure its easier than hammering the few trouble spots, i.e ive mixed this paint already may as well use it/