tortron

if you have one apart, check that the piston drops correctly when the jet is removed. may be a bent needle/jet isnt centered. clean it first, old fuel turns to varnish and sticks everything together

thats a corking little art deco work area

Neato Is a maxi approx the same size as the 1800 landcrab? or the "midsized" model inbetween the 1100's Should be a luxury cruiser when done

i had a dud new U Joint go in the truck, double check? That or start thinking flywheel (should do it in neutral) or clutch/gearbox all the bolts done up in the drive train? how about the wheels, i had a hell of a vibration once, turned out the wheel nuts had backed off

i have a webber to solex/zenith adapter. dunno if thats suitable? (2 bolt style flange)

Remove engine? 4bolts then lift the back end up while you drag it out.

why no front brake?

broom man comes around erry day with a hand cart full of brooms and rooster bums

what sort of headlamps are they btw?

possibly it was these guys Leinster - Manufacturer of Fine Handcrafted Trophy Cups & Silverware 45 Parkhouse Road Sockburn Christchurch 8443 its gonna be costy erry where $100 -150ish each reflector id say

there was a place in the south island, they did my commer ones will try find the details (was an owner ago, but i know its written in the book)

depends if the seals are pood i would refill and see what happens, they are easy to disassemble tho always remember never trust a jack, axle stands are safety first better living everyone

Car seems to stop ok while driving to the end of the driveway and back gave a quick tune by ear, engine is purring and exhaust is aggressive, which just doesnt feel right coming from my little 900cc minor Went to work on the instrument panel have all the gauges mounted and working (just need some longer bolts for the water temp one, is crooked in the pic) will install a second pair of back lights at the bottom of the cluster will drill a hole for the trip meter reset thing will sand and paint the cover and reinstall chrome rings. need to adjust the clutch to my liking/get used to the light flywheel

Brakes appear to be sorted. Recap of brake work that i have done master cylinder re-sleeved in stainless and rekitted wheel cyclinders (total of 6) re-sleeved in stainless and rekitted new pedal fork and piston/rod new hardlines and fittings all round new rubber lines (3 total) new handbrake cables new shoes (match my drums perfectly, which is a nice surprise) new rubber on the pedal thought i was having issues with the rear shoes binding on the adjuster, but it looks like its just the adjusters themselves being difficult (flathead screwdriver keeps slipping out, my larger screwdrivers are too wide to fit though the hole. Eventually found one that fits but its stubby. Got it to work by taking off the wheel and using a set of locking pliers on the screwdriver for extra torque. can lock all the wheels (car on stands, assistant stepping on brake, me wrestling with each wheel) with pedal and handbrake. So im hoping after a bit of bedding in, and a final adjustment i will be done with this part of the build

bugger, i just gave 2 spare caps away to another 1300 owner missing a cap

we have similar tastes in exhaust and carb setups my vote is suck through turbo 1300 bmc

replaced the rubber lines. Pedal is rock hard now (shoes adjusted right out into drums), harder than before even. will back off the shoes and give it another test

sweet loaded up pic should just go ahead an ride around the world on it http://www.thepostman.org.uk/ TBH, this was one of the most unprepared trips i have ever read.

old speedo vs new speedo same tpm and body, so direct bolt in replacement Trip meter upgrade to luxury spec out of the same car i got my amps and water temp gauge (dont remember what it was but im thinking Riley. Had a fold down walnut tray table for the back seats, so not your standard pleb driver car)

I did not, but they are looking pretty good (as did the ones i took out) (spun the wheels and applied the brakes/adjusted the shoes right out. then checked for high/low marks) Some damp spots on the rear flexi line - which isnt in production at the moment. So i will swap out the series mm hardware for later spec so i can use a common rear hose. going to replace the fronts too, they look newer, but are probably about 20 years old. What i figure is happening is pistons move fine when i check (and have the drum off), but when all the drums are on the pressure is expanding the rubber lines

Brakes are putting the shits up me. Pedal feels great handbrake works fine all cylinders are moving nicely all shoes are adjusted correctly doesnt stop Back to the start again, shoes are all new, master and slave cylinders are all resleeved and rekitted, lines are all new (none of the rubber ones were in stock, i bet its them )

its all come about recently, when I got the car no one was producing anything

Dakar replica®/tribute stat

yea have seen all of the parts on offer im more of a do it yourself kind of guy, more period correct haha and i dont think i could bare to part with more than i would spend to buy an entire minor on a single part

old wof sheet Remedy corrosion left b pillar -was water getting behind the lead trim on the seam at the rear cab roof. Pulled it all out, ground it fresh, bogged it smooth remedy fuel leaks - fuel bowl needle was worn, replaced with new Steering box mounting bolts loose -Tighened and locktited Both driveshaft UJ's worn -Both replaced with S1 Landrover items from the UK Movement in draglink ends to comply with manufacturer specs - these are adjustable, i just repacked them with grease, seems within spec to me, will take the original 1940's workshop manual with me. Movement in front wheels to comply (kingpins) - previous owner replaced these, turns out the holes were worn out, so he used a punch to get a bit more meat. This didnt last many miles. I had them tinned up and reamed to size for a new set of kingpins - perishing in all tyres and engine/gearbox mounts meh not covered in the wof, they can wait. haha Have just finished giving the cab and tray several coats of paint will go for wof this coming weekend (last wof expired 3/2/2010, i took it in last on 21/12/11) time flys