Nominal

There is another one on 16 dec IIRC

So true.

It depends on the certifier, but I'd budget $1K for a start

I've got a cheap-ass Mitre 10 special hanging around that I don't use often (rather play with metal than wood). Does angles etc. Can drop off even.

Also, the standard BMC log twin manifold is a terrible design but can be improved with a bit of grinding. The twins look good though.

Did you swap the 12G 202 head on? I had a look in the Vizard book and the only specific comment is that a 12G 202 will give 2-3hp over the standard 850 head, given the same chamber volume (nominal 24.5cc on 850, 26.1cc on 202),so you would need to skim it to get that increase. Then he details the chamber reshaping and porting to get more improvement. It depends what you want to achieve I guess, including what CR/fuel you want to run. More compression means more power generally. The 12G 295 (cooper type) head is a lot better but harder to find a good one, and more $$$ (I bought one that turned out to be repaired in the combustion chambers so I sold it again with full disclosure) Rattle can rebuild looks good, not too sure than anyone is very fussy about the colour unless you are going for concours. You know it would be faster if the engine was red, right?

Pumpkin latte shade?

Already have night out in the coming weekend in PNorth. @666DAN Tents work too. It's a bit stony for pegs but otherwise OK.

No other campers?

Best online resource for FE / FE powered vehicles. Many of the people really know their stuff. http:\\www.fordfe.com

Yes, and where to get them.

Isn't that what angle grinders are for? WTF do you need a 37mm head for anyway?

If you can get a dolly or something behind the weld then give it a good beating along the weld line to stretch out the area that shrank.

Is it ok to replace a 8-tooth starter with a 10-tooth on a vq30de? Some googling suggests it is done this way with no problems.

Keen! I think i have a family thing on the 16th for lunch but should be OK for the night. Other weekends are possible, once I get the windows back in this GD wagon.

Pretty sure seedy al would sell his mk1 project.

I was blown away by it.

Yes, I put the big straight bolts through with some offset spacers. I put it all back together with the same bushes. If you are feeling like it you can just zap weld the pivoting parts with a MIG. Probably the WOF man wouldn't notice. The stabilizer bar locks the pivoting parts together across the car, it sits just in front of the anti-roll bar. Before I put it on it would swerve pretty badly with brake dive.

Had a look around. I have the complete front drum assemblies that I took off when converting to discs. I rebuilt these in ~2004 and took them off in 2015. Flexible hoses were new in 2004 too. I also have a Greg Donahue stabilizer bar that locks out the weird front suspension pivots. Free if you want them.

Actually I have some Mercury drum parts, should be the same?

Also.

Brave call driving without brakes!

Good choice! Hard to go too far wrong with a dry state 1964 Galaxie. They may have taken the gas tank out to drain it for shipping. Mine came in with a loose tank and only one strap remaining.

If the ignition timing is out (too retarded) then you will get overheating. Also lean mixture can be a problem. It seems you have looked at most of the usual things with the cooling system, so checking the tune would be adviseable. Do you get detonation/what's the compression? In my 186 I have to run 95 fuel and even then have the timing backed off (retarded) a bit to stop it pinging.

Has the overheating always been a problem? It seems like it might have started getting worse at some point?