fuel

Just because I'm a weirdo I spied this at Pick a Part Wellington - a NZ-new V3000 SEi with digital dash and full steering wheel pod mounted climate control. Had never seen this setup before!

so I've still been working on this POS. I have done: - fitted remote central locking and swapped out front door handles for ones without key barrels for someone to screw driver. Yes I have run power lines to the boot if I get a flat battery etc - fitted power mirrors and permanent hidden power feed to dash cam - finished fitting the maroon interior and retrimmed the roof lining as it was sagging down - swapped out shitty rear speakers for not so shitty speakers - replaced a rear brake caliper as the handbrake mechanism had seized - swapped over the best five rims I had from a set of ten - doubled up the number of horns and added a relay Future plans are EFI swap it with Magna TR/TS manifold/loom/ECU etc and maybe five speed swap if I can be bothered - I kind of like the super low gearing and the surprising smoothness of the stock auto.

if possible - fit pistons with thinner compression rings and a wider gap between the rings. The older style pistons with thick rings and a narrow ring land gap are more prone to cracking like this.

the 80s Mitsu 2.0 with carbs are just a standard carb with a solenoid triggered vacuum operated idle up

that's an Electro carb which I know nothing about sorry broseph. I know there's an L300 at a wreckers near me with one if you ever want one as a spare. As for the condenser - I'm not sure where it would go too. I would have thought being electronic ignition it wouldn't need one and can't recall seeing one on any of my carb mitsus before.

what's wrong with the engine currently? surely it could just be something like a blocked radiator, stuck thermostat or at worst a BHG? hardly necessary to replace a whole engine for that.

was going to say... rear diff mounts are always the first thing on these to go. I poozed mine up with window silicone and it did the trick fine. There are two mounts though - one which is super easy to get to from the rear of the diff, and then there's the carrier mount which requires the dropping of the subframe to remove. You should be able to grab the diff and move it around to check for play anyway - maybe even use a pry bar on the front.

I think it has cracked ring lands. Did the same to the G63B in my Galant coupe - went to a track day presumably running on all four with presumably good compression across the board, came home running on three cylinders, shooting the dip stick out, burning oil etc. I too thought it was a coozed head gasket but turned out to be cracked ring lands on two pistons. Compression figures were similar and bores looked fantastic when the head came off.

you would have had trouble finding a 7 bolt flywheel/clutch combo for it anyway. If you're going to go for a L300 van engine - go for the 4G64 2.4L 16V injected version. There is an 8V version in pre 93 vans which you could swap the 4G63 carb setup onto if you wish to remain carb.

that will be a narrow block also.

No narrow block 4x4 gearbox - they are all wide block to accept a larger flywheel/clutch combo. Best bet is to use the original block and swap all the good bits from the narrow block over to it. There is an adapter which the Starion guys use to swap VR-4 engines using the original wideblock gearbox, but they are harder and expensive to come by and is just easier to use the original wide block.

I bought cheap automotive LEDs from fleabay with free shipping - might be worth looking into?

am so glad they didn't get far, and that they got caught but something tells me they will probably just get a slap on the hand with a wet bus ticket. Maybe time to invest in an alarm+immobiliser/gps tracker?

Build Thread Is the transmission vacuum modulated or completely electronic? if the former it could be sucking ATF into the intake somewhere but I guess you would notice smoke out the exhaust if that were the case.

VR-4 head will bolt on to the block but would need a change in pistons, manifolds, front timing components (crank sprocket, balance shaft sprockets, oil pump, water pump, tensioner/idlers, covers) and even a crank shaft change as his will certainly be the earlier 'short snout' crank to suit the thin SOHC timing belt. Later SOHC engines share the same crank as the DOHC engines.

Yeah quite common for the Jet valve heads to crack, especially in between the valve seats. I'm surprised I didn't have cracking or head gasket issues with both of my engines - though I did crack some ring lands instead.

how about having an IAT sensor before the throttle and another in the plenum? I was thinking of doing dual IAT before and after intercooler on a turbo car to see the temperature difference.

and I kinda want to avoid using a factory 80s ECU because Mitsubishi EFI wiring looms don't tend to be stand alone from the rest of the car - and given the car is auto the ECU will be expecting to be connected to an EFI specific trans computer too. Unless I have a complete parts car, I will have to buy an ECU, trans computer, complete wiring loom, distributor, air flow meter amongst other things from a wreckers. I figure it would be easy to just leave the carby trans computer in place (just needs to see TPS input) and use an aftermarket computer with map sensor that can feed a tacho output to the factory digi dash.

Ned what ECU is that? what happened with your ECU project?

Where did we get to with cheap fuel injection systems? Looking to EFI convert my fagna - can grab a junk yard manifold and hall effect dizzy easy enough. Just wanting to maximise economy and power out of this bad boy. 2555cc and it puts a massive 85kW to the ground. The later factory MPI ones do 102kW and 220Nm torque so hoping to get closer to that. Fred, Ned??

Starion has two bolt knuckles.

yeah as above if the car is pre 1991/1992ish it's basically a stricter WOF inspection. just to add my experience, I picked up a '97 Legnum 25ST-R with about 120,000kms on the clock that was repossessed - it had only just been vinned when imported two years prior but that was enough time for the first buyer (who must have ticked it up) to just drive it without spending anything on it - including registration. I paid $1000 for it, but this was in 2010 when they were still worth about $5k for a tidy one. The repo agent had already put it through a re-vin and it came back with a list of failures, however he left it longer than the 28 days and therefore I had to pay for another fresh test. I took it back to the same place the repo guy had taken it to just because they were already familiar with it - though that didn't stop it coming back with a list of other faults that weren't picked up in the first inspection. The inspection was $400 and the first rego was something like $200, and I had spent maybe another $500 on it for replacement parts and tidying it up. Ended up selling for $4250 so made a cool $2000ish profit on it for a couple weeks work. In my case I feel it was worth the hassle. It would definitely be worth it for a pre 1992 vehicle.

is the rear window from the blue car not the same? or are you wanting to put the blue car back on the road?

I hit enter before finishing the post and then went back and edited it. Damn fat fingers haha.

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/51568-leedles-1980-sapporo/ Nice 'Sapporo' you have there - but it's actually a Galant-Lambda (what that /\ symbol is, it is greek for Lambda and denotes two-door coupe while Sigma E means sedan). Yours is the A163A model which means 2.0L and solid rear axle. If it were the European or New Zealand model it would be badged as a Sapporo, a Scorpion if sold in Australia or even a Dodge/Plymouth Challenger II if sold in the US. I currently have a 1980 Eterna GSR coupe (Eterna being an upper spec version of the Galant) - //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/21377-fuels-1980-mitsubishi-eterna-gsr and I used to have a 1982 Galant GT coupe which I sold a few years back - //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/26926-fuels-1982-galant-gt Both of mine were the same pre-facelift versions as yours is.