fuel

As I said before, no Evos had 450cc injectors. You bought some Galant VR-4 injectors.

Sorry to see that! I too was sad to see the sight of a busted Eager knowing that it would probably be hard to find a replacement - would look so dumb if the insurance co replaced just one tyre with a Linglong or something.

Wow. End of an era.

I spaced down the lower shock mounts from the lower suspension arms by using washers - you could probably do the same with proper spacers and longer bolts.

Evo's never had the 440cc injectors - they were either yellow top 510cc injectors on the Evo 1-4 or salmon top 560cc injectors for the Evo 5+. The non-Evolution Galant VR-4s have blue top 450cc and the Evo VR-4 uses yellow top 510cc.

Can't use GL-5 in Mitsubishi transaxles before the early 90s for the same bronze eating reasons. The RWD and later stuff is fine with GL-5 though.

I just hope that guy sees the replies in the discussion thread before creating another post in the build thread...

You did put a post up, but it was in the wrong section (the project build up forum is reserved for un-cluttered build progress, and the project discussion forum is where you discuss the project). Your post was moved to the discussion thread here -

You have to remember that the Australian Mitsubishi/Chryslers of that time are often different from the Japanese models they are derived from, as the Australian models had to rely on heavy local content - ie PBR brakes in place of Sumitomo, Borg Warner transmissions and diffs in place of Aisan/Mitsubishi derived items. His wagon will have either the G32B 1.6L or the G54B 2.6L and unlikely to have a Borg Warner transmission like the Australian assembled models. The Scorpion is known as either the Dodge Challenger II or the Plymouth Sapporo in the US and they have the same engine options as the OP's wagon. The turbo sedan wasn't available in the US - their first turbo Mitsubishi was in the form of the FWD Dodge Colt aka Mitsubishi Mirage, also sold as the RA-RE Colt in Australia just minus the turbo engine. Then they got the Starion in 1983 followed by the Cordia, Galant VR-4 etc. The Magna doesn't exist outside of Australia - the 5th generation Galant the TM-TP Magna was based on was sold in the US as a Galant Sigma but it came with either the 2.4 4G64 or the 3.0 6G72 V6. When I was living in Australia I sent a boat load of TN/TP EFI inlet manifolds over to the US for the Starion guys to convert to MPI.

Australians just looooove dash covers due to the harsh sun, however you'll probably find they are for RHD only.

What you have is a third generation Galant wagon, called the Chrysler Sigma in Australia or Mitsubishi Galant-Sigma in other parts. Mitsubishi did indeed make smaller bumpers for the European, Japanese and Asian markets.

You could always rebuild it if you're feeling game. It's also the same unit on the Starion.

Bare in mind the Japanese import RWD Sigmas were badged as Galant. My '81 coupe was a Galant GT with no power steering but if it were a Galant GSR (like Pooman's) it would have power steering like my Eterna GSR (which itself is just a tarted up Galant).

The RWD mounts will bolt up to an E33A Galant 4G63 DOHC no problems, along with the early '91 and '92 N23W RVR/N33W Chariot with the 6-bolt 4G63 DOHC. Although I am fairly certain the RWD mounts do attach to the Evo1-3 style block (along with 93+ N23W RVR), you'll run into issues with which flywheel to use with your existing gearbox. If you can find a Jap import 93+ 2L 16V L300 van you could use that flywheel, but it will be heavy and ideally needs lightening. The 4G64 L300 flywheel is too large, and the FWD flywheels don't have the spigot bearing hole and are often stepped too. As for the best early 4G63 DOHC to get, they generally come in two flavours - the 145hp big port 9.1:1 compression ratio found in most of the '87 to '92 shape Galants including the NZ-new GTi-16V or the higher compression 160hp big port 10.4:1 found in the late '90 onwards Galant VX-S and VZ-S. The 93+ 7-bolt N23W RVR Sports Gear has a 160hp small port 10.5:1 compression ratio engine which would be the best for N/A power delivery (much better torque curve than the big port engine) but again you'll have issues with the fly wheel etc. If you want to do something different, I would get a 4G64 2.4L SOHC 16V L300/L400/Triton engine, swap a Galant or RVR DOHC head on and swap in a Starion wide block gearbox with lightened flywheel and convert to hydraulic clutch pedal set up. This should give you a small bump in power to around 175-180hp but also a big increase of torque. As for the sump you may be able to get away with retaining the FWD sump, but bear in mind the FWD engine is mounted with a 15deg lean towards the front of the car and the sump is angled to suit.

It's actually the last of the first generation RVR (around '95-'97) that have the separate cam/crank trigger sensors at the front of the engine rather than a single CAS on the back of the head. The second generation RVR has the same head as an Evo4-8 with the sensors behind the cam/crank sprockets too, but that head is reverse flow and will not bolt on to the earlier block you have. 'Late model' RVR, aka the ASX has the 4B engine family so is completely different. You'll need some kind of ECU to control spark at the very least with a DOHC 4G6x head so you may as well go the whole hog and convert to EFI to make the most of the better DOHC head anyway. With the DOHC swap, you'll need the front timing components and if you are unlucky enough to have the earlier style 'short nose' crank you'll have to swap cranks to the later 'long nose' to use the DOHC crank sprocket etc. If your current 4G63 SOHC (no such thing as a 4g63B, it's either a G63B or 4G63) is narrowblock (ie just in a 2WD van/ute/Sigma and not turbo) then you're better off finding a whole E33A Galant or N23W RVR 2L DOHC and putting it in complete, swapping over the sump/oil pump pickup and engine mounts. You could also find a 4G64 SOHC 16V EFI from a 93+ L300, L400 or Triton. They are still SOHC but come with the extra torque or the larger 2.4L displacement.

Check the 2.6L Mitsubishi Magna '91-'96-ish - they have the nice injector plugs with the spring loaded clip. Definitely much better than the injector clips on the Japanese/NZ assembled Mitsubishis.

Alex - you could re-locate the air temp sensor to inside the air filter element somewhere, as this is usually where many other factory cars have their IAT sensors (ie Mitsubisi AFMs used by Mitsubishi, Mazda, Ford etc). You could run some extended wiring underneath the pipe and it should still be hidden somewhat.

Usually you keep the inner and outer CV joints in place to hold the wheel bearings together/stop the gearbox oil coming out (if running original Subaru 4WD trans) and then remove the driveshaft portion.

Your '87 intercooled should have the same inlet manifold and injection system as a later Starion, including Ed's one. I believe Ed's is NZ-new so it will be without a cat converter, O2 sensor and exhaust temp sensor and instead has a mixture adjustment trimpot mounted somewhere.

Haha so the plot thickens - I messaged him a link to this post to investigate before you told me you bought it off him, but he couldn't see the thread as he doesn't have an account. I told him the issues you are having and he said it could be the ECU and/or knock sensor and to send it to John at Get It Fixed to be repaired. The idle speed is controlled by both a servo motor and a coolant controlled wax element. I think the earlier cars like mine had further solenoid/vacuum idle control. I know I had a solenoid which triggered when the A/C was on, which had vac lines to increase idle speed.

Go see Brett at Don Campbell motors - he is an EX Lancer nut and probably has 5-10 old Mitsubishis at any given point of time.

At idle there would usually be the most vacuum an engine is subject to (other than de-acceleration). Most of the vacuum lines control things like EGR and extra idle-up when A/C is on etc. I would make sure there is vacuum source going to the distributor vac advance diaphragm and to the fuel pressure regulator. Mine was a complex mess of vac lines most of which had perished and were leaking somewhat but even then it still didn't mis-fire - I just had inconsistent idle speeds and poor fuel economy.

The O2 sensor before the cat helps the ECU know what mixture the engine is being supplied but it is a narrow band and only really helps for closed loop on-cruise running and not acceleration etc. Even if it's faulty or non-existent it doesn't really affect the running of the engine. I have run mine without an O2 sensor and it's fine. The sensor after the cat converter is just a temperature sensor, if the cat clogs up and runs hot it will trigger an overheat lamp on the dashboard. That's all it does. The sensor on the intake pipe right before the injectors is the air intake sensor - usually there is an air intake sensor built into the air flow meter but I guess on a turbocharged engine the ambient air temp is going to be different from the actual intake air temp due to the turbo heating the charged air up. I gather being an '87 it's an intercooled model? I would be looking at the ECU coolant temp sensor telling the ECU it is still cold and therefore running overly rich and mis-firing, or look at the injectors as they are known to leak, dribble or block up. Does it just mis-fire under boost/acceleration or at all times including idle? if at all times I would be checking for a vacuum leak too.

Pics?

Lols