evil_si

Yea he's a Nz company, can be ok to deal with, can also be pretty bloody arrogant, Easiest option is to do it all the online rather than actually email or deal with him

The small hose out of the power steering pump is the high pressure line, thus will go direct to the rack The others are all low pressure return or suction, they can be hose clamed i prefer to use pushlock hose on the ones i do

Had the last few gaskets ive needed water jet, Stainless ans copper turbo gaskets etc, $12 for the last turbo outlet gasket i had water jet

Yea na not so much

I just went and bought one of these, pretty sweet set,was $140 thru BNT Cheers for sharing the link ProZac

The tool shed have long nose electric die grinders on sale this month for $79, Arges 450watt 1/4 collett

My old garage slab was 200mm on the perimeter footing /where the concrete had overflowed, and only 50-60mm over the pad it self It wasn't thick enough to secure my linisher properly, and cracked around it after some decent use

Awesome topic, I use connection technologies in wellington http://www.connectors.co.nz good to deal with Dt series connectors at very reasonale prices

I use a lot of cutting disks, in particular 125x .8's and 1mm's can't beat flexovit for quality, but they are around $2.20 ea at backwoods Smith and arrow do .8's at $1ea I've used over 300 of them but they just don't last like the more expensive disks, their 1mm disks are the same price, they last quite a bit longer, but i only get 1/2 the life compared to flexovit, I've also just invested in a 9" grinder and using 1.6mm flexovit disks very impressed with the life,

I called a few hoist suppliers and asked about the slab requirements, they were all useless and just said 100mm, So I gave advanced hoist a call, told him I was building a garage and intended to fit a hoist later, and asked what would be best, his reply was most manufacturers recommend 120mm, but the NZ rule of thumb was 100, so I had a 4mx1.5 section of the floor poured at 150mm with extra reinforcing, it didn't cost any extra, I intend to grab a clear floor 2 post single phase, the cost of running 3 phase from down the street to my property is prohibitive for me, That's a great idea about the underground lights and wiring, I wish I had read this a month ago! I guess some careful cuts and some epoxy it could still be done

Awesome idea, but nearly fell over with the price I priced that up Thanks for your enquiry The price for MULTI-MAX FLEXIBLE SHAFT M6 is: $620.00+GST Delivery within 14Working days from payment date THanks Ziv Adni T.G.A International Ltd.

I bought a metabo one a few years ago, wasnt to imoressed with how bulky it was

Go see Brett hamilton, advance steel engineering, white st, rotorua Failing that go see henry at dynamic engineering on allan mills rd Both build driveshafts brett is a top guy

I drill and tap my adaptors and fit 1/8 brass fittings and run them to vacuum collector, i then block off the factory holes in the quads

I just pay some one to do it found a guy from pukekohe that travelled to pakuranga removed front and rear screens from donor and installed into car for $50

I know the loktite flange sealer, 515 doesnt work, i purchased a set of 3 piece wheels and the owner had attempted to seal using this, not good, and an absolute cunt to clean off

I used black silicone, actually volvo sealant as i had a tube left over from a job. a good bead and a ring around each bolt hole, dont smear or smooth it out with your finger, leave the bead and bolt wheel together,

My 2 cents, if possible get the flange cut as 1 piece, makes a bit harder to draw, but will make building it easier, can always cut it once its finished if you desire Some one like 'one stop cutting' may already have it on file,

Brake light powerwire shorted to chassis,

What colour white smoke? White with a blue tinge means turbo, does it smell oily White with a grey tinge is fuel, does it smell like unburnt fuel? If the fuel primer isnt getting hard it can either be a resticted or blocked suction, blocked fuel filter etc have you fueled up using containers or always from the pump? Take the fuel filter off and check for water, or sludge which indicates diesel bug Or the return check valve a the injection pump may have failed, weak spring etc Glow plugs only help with cold start,

I used some of those rubber things from bnt / autolign in an atenza, they were shit and flattened out I had some 25mm nylon machined up amd fitted between the top of spring and strut, the 25mm raised the car about 15mm

Get some Alloy acid and treat the area of cast before welding, I also grind a slight beval on the cast runners using a sanding disk or flap disk. Regulators i find the flow meter type good. Has a small plastic ball that floats at the lpm that its putting out, a lot more accurate

Have never seen them in copper, but you could always have an engineer machine some up

Tj heads in manukau use to skim all my manifolds, was generally $20-40 depending on how bad it is

I linish my tungstens to a point, they soon ball when your welding, I find Most ali is clean enough to just weld without cleaning up, scotch brite is excellent to clean alloy When you find settings that work, make a note of them, even better find someone with the same machine and pinch their settings My tig is digital, fuck knows what each setting is, i just know what numbers should be in each box