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More normal size wheels and just buy some decent tyres? Much less mucking around, unless it's for looks

Would be happy to hear your thoughts about my latest project. Looking to repower at some stage and also like to hear suggestions. Was thinking 2GR-FSE engine possibly TRD supercharged if I could find one

Not gonna lie, I adored (and regret selling) my B18CR ITR with a turbo kit on it. That thing was awesome to drive, shame I was too young to respect it and got rid of it before I died in it.

Guess not

Some 20 years ago I made a pair of these out of 22 gauge Zintex for our Sierra Cosworth race car , they made a huge difference. With floating rotors The trick is to get the air in through the back near the center.

A near stock B18CR is a beautiful thing

No one's building any flash engines for this car, it's perfect the way it is.

There is apparently rear arms that are narrower im looking to find a set as I need to do bushes anyway. Would solve that, there's a dead adventra up at end of street too which I need a diff from as they are 3.46:1. There's a dozen side projects on this thing to keep me busy. I've also found a 2500 high stall. Anyway side quests........ promise I won't ruin it. Just want some traction so I can tune it without putting it into a ditch.

They aren't as bad as it sounds there is about a 20mm lip on inside of guard which I'm going to roll in. That's only bit that rubs. If I can pull off this look I'll do it. If i can't then yup as you said move on buy some Simmons or something. don't want to do mega body work. Wheels were cheap can't lose.

Flares would definitely look nicer and less risk of irreversible damage I knew a guy who had a VN and was a dork and used a baseball bat, it ended in tears. Not the same commie but similar style rear guards.

I think the best thing with the wheels is just going to be cut your losses, sell on and buy something that better fits. It looks like it's going to be mega mexico spec which is pretty hard to rectify. Especially given the rear guard shape is formed by the bumper, rear quarter and the door. If you have to pull the guard out a significant distance you'll need to get the door and bumper sort of cooperating or it'll look like ass. Then getting all 3 elements to work together is HEAPS of work to make it look convincing. But if you could get those flares from the adventura or whatever it was called, could look good if thats a bolt on option. If you can fit 275s with a wheel that has more positive offset and fits under standard guards its going to look incredible. Sorry for haterade, I love your work but I'd hate to see a guard roll make a mess of things and not achieve what you want. It's a really hard part of the car to repair if you want to walk it back.

Some pics of 99% done engine bay looks fairly tidy I hid as many wires as I could bit of a bummer about throttle and cruise control cables having to do a big loop shortening them might be a bit of a bitch. Yes that's a coke bottle I've got a overflow half done on bench. Time to order some heat management products off aliexpress it doest actually seem too bad.

If you need small controllers, wireless bits etc, gimme a yell

I've bought a guard roller so will see if I can pump the guards out enough and fit the BMW rims I bought Think it'll need the extra grip of the 275 so I dont die.

IAC valve arrived fits perfectly but didn't fix 2000rpm idle however it does sit at 1000 in drive now which makes it fairly drivable. Going to have to investigate further could have a vacuum line on wrong port or something. The exhaust is really thumpy now as in the garage door vibrates like its in a earth quake parked 3m away. Cool I guess it's not ultra loud sounds very different to what it did. Quick drive sorted the bad exhaust rattle with an extra mount. It drives BUTTERY SMOOTH! even with the Bridgestone RE003 245s on it triggers the traction control with 1/2 throttle.

Let's get way to carried away fixing the center console lid ay? Broken, like every one ever made the top of it is broken and cracked. So I spent way, WAY to long making an aluminium plate for the top. Then recessing it into the vinyl and foam cover so it sits flat. Once that was done I cut a piece of fabric out of the spare seat, washed it then glued it up with a piece of foam. It's come together really well and I'm really happy with the result. People who actually know how to do upholstery will cringe when they see it irl but I'm stoked with it, it'll do me just fine.

Kinda close is good enough. Kids are pretty damn clever (some anyway!). Currently projects are an oblique wing RC plane, autonomous lawn mower, laminar flow water tank for testing boat hulls, someone monitoring and transmitting water temperatures at a remote river spot plus a bunch more mundane things... Our major issue is getting stakeholders that are interested. And access to the equipment needed to prototype. 18 years of me saying "when you're rich and famous, I'll still be here, come and donate us some gear!" has to start paying dividends at some point.

While the dash is out i can tidy/simplify the wiring. and blank off all the un needed holes in the firewall. Also temporary fuel pump setup. Moved from underneath to in the boot. Will need a surge tank as well.

Hmm mine is about 3m away from the compressor and about 1.8m high. It’s probably compressor working it’s arse off as i don’t get water when spraying at lower pressures.

The wagon has arrived and has been taken down to compliance. Going to be waiting for a big list of things I think but I knew that going into this project. So far I know the car needs a tune, needs some bushes replaced in the front as it was floating a bit on the road. Exhaust needs to be done properly from the headers back, a patch of rust in the rear wheel well needs sorting and the brakes need adjusting.

Depends if you want real world or kinda close. Also depends on if they can figure out good setup time allowances, tools, and the job in the machine. How many ops? allow hr per setup and hr per programme, plus materials ( allowing extra material for 1st off and getting the setup/tool heights-lengths and programme 100% correct). and then divide by total qty required. then allow $2 per minute of cut time. should get you rroooooughly close enough. whats a shop rate now? 120 /hr? depending on machine. 2 3 4 or 5 axis can double easy. But should give close enough to learn, a heavily programme and setup time cost compared to 1 or 3, 5 items cost allllllllot more than 10 20 50 off. but tool path length varies so much and either high speed machining or slower more traditional tools changes everything. soooooo its kinda not really possible unless you can specify those variables. depends on how clever an in depth you want to go with m/min, Ae/Ap etc etc how clever are ya kids?

Good idea, what would some ball park figures for setup and cut time be? Ponoko is something I used years ago but had forgotten about, thanks @h4nd

Problem most likely solved my friends. Those suggesting fuel were correct. The lift pump body wasn't tightened down properly. That and perhaps some restriction through the sediment filter was starving the engine of fuel. Noticeable power increase now, but I am still going to check valve clearances when I get a spare afternoon. Thanks all. Really appreciate the guidance. I am starting to like diesel engines. These old ones are refreshingly simple to work on once you understand them

Can you just build them a spreadsheet based on setup cost + material cost + cut distance/time? Put some good factors in there to play under promise/over deliver?

I'm looking forward to L15B becoming cheaper and more affordable - as I suspect they will become a great swap option once ecu tech catches up