shrike Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 12 minutes ago, Roman said: I guess I need to see if it actually makes any power before getting too carried away... Once you drive it the first time you can see how noticeable it is and then swap diff etc plus an opportunity for graphs 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted February 3 Author Share Posted February 3 Haha yeah, iterative improvements once the car is running, (by which I obviously mean graphs) is the fun part. Just gotta get it over that finish line first! It's getting close. In some spectacularly good news in terms of project progress, have got a signed up deal to sell my house. So hopefully come early March I can get back into things decently. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 Keen to see it hit 300kph 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted February 3 Author Share Posted February 3 Ahhh just realized another problem, if I use a crazy diff ratio then the speed of the driveshaft and bearings in the gearbox ends up going fucken crazy. I actually am super keen to participate at the land speed trials one year. I was thinking about taking the echo for lolz but that ship has sailed. EDIT: I had an ask around, and a US company makes a 5.7 ratio and it's about $600 NZD + shipping. Not bad! Good to know there's an option if needed. https://www.yukongear.com/shop/yg-t75-571 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sungai Sungai Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 I have a set of four Toyo T1R in 225/40/14 you can try if you wanna get real small with the tire diameter, another 7.6% smaller than a 195/50/15. Guess 14's wouldnt clear your brakes though? slight aside though; why do all your graphs have a "Blue Dragon Childrens Foundation" watermark? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted February 7 Author Share Posted February 7 14s will fit on the back okay, as I've had 13s on there! It's only on the front where it's real tight. But long term plan is to downsize brakes so I've got more wheel options. Cool thanks, will keep that in mind if I ever get this damn thing going haha. My graphs are a screen grab from this absolutely excellent website. https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-gear 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nd Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 And now for something completely different: 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hurmeez Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 I might be being a bit thick but I can't see any adjustment built into the throttle pulleys? How are you planning to balance the banks to each other? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted March 2 Author Share Posted March 2 I will use those little slide on linkages that came with the throttles and will weld them to back of the pulleys. Then have some ability to set the angle when tightening it. I can also shorten or lengthen the cable. As one end can be unscrewed and moved. Then if it turns out i still need more fine adjustment. I will add a small tensioner wheel to the cable part way between, that can adjust to effectively tighten the cable. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shrike Posted March 10 Share Posted March 10 @Roman 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shrike Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 @Roman any idea how much airflow you get through the space youll have? Assuming youll be sealing the radiator and running ducting/shrouds etc do you have some measurements of the holes that will let air into the radiator? If your mounting it further back is it worth running a duct from under the car as well? With Dual fans running as needed you might be ok with the space available even if hard mounted guess it will depend how much restriction there will be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted March 13 Author Share Posted March 13 I think the general idea is that the faster you are going, the less air intake area you need for your radiator size. A lot of the time attack cars have tiny little holes for the radiator. Total lower grill entry area is 77542mm2 . Equivalent area to a 315mm circle. 57081mm2 for the upper grill entry. Equivalent area to a 270mm diameter circle. The front valance sits quite high on this car, but it's really hard to add something to the front to lower it that doesnt look like absolute shit. I very much do not like this style of front on this era car: This below though can look cool though but it's hard to get it right, often looks gumby when someone fits one that isnt wide enough or the right shape for the car. May also be incompatible with my rural driveway haha. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 Do you have room to angle rad fwd (move bottom edge rear wards) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 53 minutes ago, Roman said: the faster you are going, the less air intake area you need So massive then 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted March 13 Author Share Posted March 13 Needs to be huge for a car that doesnt go! And yeah can probably tip it a bit, there's a reasonable amount of room ahead of the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 wondering if you do that then you could form up a reasonable sheetmetal cowl to direct/force air in the right spot if needed/get some air in from underneath Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARDRB Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 Crazy idea here.... Run what you have, and see what happens. Don't waste energy theorising on what might happen, and over-complicating things. This was the Echo's charm, cheap, cheerful and iterative. I also know that your name is David and you're incapable of not over-thinking the whole process 4 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 ^got a point, either rad mounted up right would certainly get it fired up and revving in garage to 10krpm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shrike Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 I suspect for your power levels you probably have enough airflow, esp when you see cars like civics with half rads running 300kw etc I agree with the above comments install it the easiest way and then mod if needed But with proper ducting I think itll be ok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted March 13 Author Share Posted March 13 52 minutes ago, GARDRB said: Crazy idea here.... Run what you have, and see what happens. Don't waste energy theorising on what might happen, and over-complicating things. This was the Echo's charm, cheap, cheerful and iterative. I also know that your name is David and you're incapable of not over-thinking the whole process Yeah I hear you, and I am focused on getting this from current its current state to a running motor/car ASAP with no fucking around on non essentials. (Can do that iteratively once it's going, like echo. thats the fun part) As I want to know how well my engine scheme is going to pan out! So the seemingly easiest way would have been to keep the Altezza radiator that I already had - but the pipe sizes are wrong, and the pipe locations dont really work either. I was hoping the Mark X setup would just tick off all of these boxes, just have to remake some top and bottom mounts. But it's actually only as thin as the Altezza radiator (16mm) and the hoses didnt really fit too well since the radiator and engine heights dont match relative positions to factory. Bottom mounts will be easy, but the top ones tricky because it's tall. But once mounted it's going to be even taller, and I suspect it will hit the bonnet. So my thinking here is actually to NOT waste my time, rather than to dilly dally with unimportant stuff. So I'm cutting my losses and ironically going to SW20 parts haha. To get the motor running I dont need an air intake at all, and I dont need any radiator ducting. So I'll bang the radiator in there, work out the mounts, work out the pipes, then fill the damn thing up. This new radiator is 40m thick core as well, so hopefully zero cooling issues if I can get some air to it. This SW20 radiator was $220 delivered so meets the cheap and cheerful criteria! 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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