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On 21/01/2023 at 11:17, Valiant said:

@mlracing.co.nz

The S600 is really cool.

What does it drive like? 

What are your plans with it?

Really looking forward to more pictures tbh.

It drives pretty well actually, clutch is still a bit weird though so master needs replacing I expect. Slave was replaced prior to my getting it as it was even weirder before. Not quite disengaging etc. I had a measure up.. I think I can fit a K20

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3 hours ago, Flash said:

Those hubcaps came up mint.

I'd be keen to hear what the detailer suggests for polishing up the chrome on your bumpers. The ones on my Thames van are in similar condition and I've yet to find a way to improve them.

Someone recommended this kit - https://www.bunnings.co.nz/josco-grinder-accessory-metal-mirror-finish-kit_p6310310

I've got the pads like that but haven't got that compound bar of soap looking stuff so maybe that's the key ingredient

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3 hours ago, mlracing.co.nz said:

Someone recommended this kit - https://www.bunnings.co.nz/josco-grinder-accessory-metal-mirror-finish-kit_p6310310

I've got the pads like that but haven't got that compound bar of soap looking stuff so maybe that's the key ingredient

Thanks for the info. I'll see if I can find it on my next visit to Bunnings.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Not sure if you're aware but many service manuals call for putting some oil or antifreeze into the strut tube with the shock insert to assist with heat transfer to the main strut body. This may be the source of the fluid, because in theory if your gland nut is tight any fluid escaping from the shaft seal would spill out over top of the strut assembly and not back inside.

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6 hours ago, fuel said:

Not sure if you're aware but many service manuals call for putting some oil or antifreeze into the strut tube with the shock insert to assist with heat transfer to the main strut body. This may be the source of the fluid, because in theory if your gland nut is tight any fluid escaping from the shaft seal would spill out over top of the strut assembly and not back inside.

Hmm I did read something about the antifreeze thing the other night but wasn't really sure what it meant. Is it necessary to do it again when they are replaced?

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I mean I guess if it's going to sit in a garage most of the time instead of being bashed on a touge daily it probably wont be an issue. I put the new inserts into my RX7 before realising this too, but I will eventually get around to pulling them out again and putting some 10W30 in there. 

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My guess was they just didn't bother cleaning out the original oil when swapping shocks. I never knew about adding fluid in there for cooling though! Learn something every day.
I'm sure it will handle a lot nicer when new shocks go in either way.

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2 hours ago, Bluebird_U said:

Given the amount power at the rear wheels you might be able to save some weight by dropping down to a R160 and shafts, even better of you can find a CLSD from a Leone etc.

For the S600? I imagine trying to find an LSD, or even a diff from a Leone might be tricky but definitely something to keep in mind. That said.. it might need the larger diff for future plans. 

 

8 hours ago, fuel said:

I mean I guess if it's going to sit in a garage most of the time instead of being bashed on a touge daily it probably wont be an issue. I put the new inserts into my RX7 before realising this too, but I will eventually get around to pulling them out again and putting some 10W30 in there. 

lol yeah it's life is destined for retirement/occasional outings. It seems like it was more of an old boy thing to do but I presume shock technology has improved a little bit to make it not necessary. Most people don't seem to do it from what I've read when replacing the shocks so I don't think I will and just see how it goes. 

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If you want to handle more HP then you could stay with the R180 but look for a WRX STI diff and stub axles adapters. The usual problems when looking for the R160/ R180/ R200 diffs (CLSD/ VLSD) are the spline count (25/ 27) between nissan or subaru, if circlips are needed/ how they bolt together, and if you want to go CV or not. 

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  • 11 months later...

20240126_132738small.jpg.fe9806736c4d668a2ed2635c7236aa79.jpg.30dca07cc36c4bdee4f1abf72ce27687.jpg

DECODING :shaking2:

Frame number should be stamped on the opposite side of the firewall to this tag to confirm the number matches this tag.

MODEL - TA22 model - R (right hand drive) - M (5 speed) - MM (LT trim/exterior)

2T - single carb 1600cc

218165 built November 1974

Colour 337 = orangey-brown - TRIM - ZD22 Vinyl/PVC all in black

image.png.1e3052dc4bb35dc4794e58740532e934.png

Trans - 5F1 - T50 Gearbox, Axle T292 - T-series 6.7" crown wheel with 4.100 ratio open diff.

Plant - A41 - Tsutsumi Plant TMC

Produktion.jpg.59724f29d7a29de63bec01a92e38cda3.jpg

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1 hour ago, sleeektoy said:

20240126_132738small.jpg.fe9806736c4d668a2ed2635c7236aa79.jpg.30dca07cc36c4bdee4f1abf72ce27687.jpg

DECODING :shaking2:

Frame number should be stamped on the opposite side of the firewall to this tag to confirm the number matches this tag.

MODEL - TA22 model - R (right hand drive) - M (5 speed) - MM (LT trim/exterior)

2T - single carb 1600cc

218165 built November 1974

Colour 337 = orangey-brown - TRIM - ZD22 Vinyl/PVC all in black

image.png.1e3052dc4bb35dc4794e58740532e934.png

Trans - 5F1 - T50 Gearbox, Axle T292 - T-series 6.7" crown wheel with 4.100 ratio open diff.

Plant - A41 - Tsutsumi Plant TMC

Produktion.jpg.59724f29d7a29de63bec01a92e38cda3.jpg

Awesome so the trim might be OEM, that's cool. I wonder if that plant offers a tour.. thanks for that, most appreciated! Good info about the tag number, I'll have to check it next weekend. According to Vicroads that frame number is in their records so presume it's the same.

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