Bluebird_U

Ive got a F120A-II F11 sitting round doing nothing - it can go to a good cause as I could use the space, and it would be a good home for an A12 if it loses its.

Went down on the weekend but someone had already been at it and had broken the front one in half when removing the window glass. The rear one is still intact (in the boot now). Once the plastic rivets were popped all that was needed was to cut the double sided tape. With the windows up I dont think theres any way to get at the window seals and see how the metal tabs are attached.

Whats the procedure needed to remove them? Might be going past at some point this weekend.

If you want to handle more HP then you could stay with the R180 but look for a WRX STI diff and stub axles adapters. The usual problems when looking for the R160/ R180/ R200 diffs (CLSD/ VLSD) are the spline count (25/ 27) between nissan or subaru, if circlips are needed/ how they bolt together, and if you want to go CV or not.

Given the amount power at the rear wheels you might be able to save some weight by dropping down to a R160 and shafts, even better of you can find a CLSD from a Leone etc.

Did you have any luck with this? Wont be around till next weekend if you still need it.

What about some half height EV14 injectors https://www.efihardware.com/products/3035/injector-66-lb-hr-731cc-3.0-bar-gm-bosch ? A lot shorter so much look a bit better.

Got an alignment done last week (toe and camber with before/ after printout) for $90, that was after replacing tie rod ends. Find their chain and yank it a bit.

Ended up with a new battery as the old one was not the best and car is running again. Will also keep an eye on it to make sure it charging/ working right, and also check the alternator etc because Im sure theres other gremlins hiding in the electrical system and might be hidden by the new battery. Thanks for all your replies and I'll owe all beer or similar for the help.

Looks like you guys are right. Hooked up the old ride and jumped it straight away and went for about a 10km blast to get a bit of charge into the battery. Got home and parked up off the road and went to start again - dead (or at least not enough juice to turn it over) so it looks like I'll get out tomorrow night and get it running to test then whip the battery out. When it was running the lights would dim/ flicker when braking so hope its not the alternator as well - will check the earths/ belts. Cheers

Thanks for the replies. Spent a bit of time with it tonight and noted a few other things with the electrics that might point to the issue. Now there are no lights on the dash, radio doesnt work, no indicators or lights, Central locking not working, but can hear the motor? trying hard to make a noise, Interior light does work but is flickering, Hazard lights dont work but still makes a sound, Cant turn engine over. Now for the positive... yeah there is some... got the multi meter out to test the voltage in the engine bay, From the battery to the cable into the engine fuse box, the fuses, and out there is power Starter motor cables are tight Annnd thats about it at the moment. Will track down a charger to make sure the battery has got as much juice as it can handle and sand all the terminals/ clamps to see if theres a difference, other than that I'll start pulling interior fuses to check condition. Could there be an issue with the ignition?

Hi, I've currently got a pov-spec 1993 Honda Civic (D15b manual, non vtec, non computer) for DD duties. The issue is that after two days on non use on the weekend i went to start and there was only a click and no cranking. Bit of back history - about 6 months ago it had a similar problem where it wouldn't start by key and I had to park on hills so that it could be rolled/ clutch dumped and eventually got round to hitting the starter and it seemed to fix the issue. Last week after a day sitting out in the rain it would crank, crank, crank but would not fire (this may be a separate issue). Eventually got a tow and after a while it fired and seemed to be running fine. On Monday went to start it: Lights on the dash, Turn the key and the lights went out Car stayed in the same place and no cranking So have had another look again tonight and tested the electrics starter with a hammer and noted that there was an occasional click (but no cranking). The dash lights were bright until turning the key and then were very dim (it was dark). Tested the voltage of the battery and it was about 12.8v. When its light I will check the cables just to make sure theres not a bolt loose. Does anyone out there with a honda out there come across this type of problem, or are there any common failures that would lead to this? Or are the starters the same (or each one model specific)? Thanks

What happens if you swap No4 lead to one of the other cylinder, just to see if the miss follows it? Might save having to replace a few things.

The next couple of years should be a bit bigger - just with the extra time off (Friday/ Monday) giving a good long weekend. Always seems to be fine and this year they moved the food around a bit to make it easier to get to - although more icecream stalls needed. Think his times were 67.23, 71. 00, 78.91, 80.35 (1972 Datsun 1600). Nice photos.

Didn't know at the time, but had a good talk and mechanical discussions about the car and the other projects/ parts with him.