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Rust Repair tips n tricks


Metalhead96

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Will try this week.

In the meantime, get a few bits of scrap panel and just try welding tacks on them. Literally just try weld in the middle of a bit of scrap. Then turn it over and see how obvious the weld is. Too cold and the surface will look like normal. Penetration which you want, will start to form a molten pool on the underside. The idea behind having a few bits of scrap is so you don't build up the heat too much, which will throw the results out. Maybe post up the settings you are using too.

I always do a test weld before working on the actual job too. That photo I posted earlier I had some sheet, same sheet, on the bench and did some test tacks to make sure the settings were ok. Biggest hurdle with your patches were the gaps IMO. They are weldable, but only with practice as they are a bit harder to do. Easier to weld when the panels are butted together. With gaps, you have to get creative. Once you have one tack that bridges the gap, I tend to weld to the tacks which will then melt both panels together at the edges. Trying to weld into the gap by starting on one panel or the other will be blow through city.

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11 hours ago, Jusepy82 said:

Sorry , I have a cigweld weldskill 185 and I'm using co2 gas. I'm welding panel steel.

Pure CO2 won't be helping. I use Argoshield Light which is only 5% CO2 specifically to suit thinner material, compared to the 12% CO2 in the regular argon mix.

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Yeah mix will be nicer to use, but honestly i've not been limited by pure CO2. You adapt to each gas. I've measured 0.5mm sheet and tack welded that with pure CO2, it had no use, I just wanted to see if it was possible. Old escort panel should be a breeze with it, with practice. I certainly wouldn't change gas and expect it to solve the problem here. Not that there is a problem as such, just need more practice and to know what to look for. 

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The shielding gas means nothing 

 

It's just an excuse for something to blame shitty welds on 

We run argosheild at work and I run co2 at home cos its cheaper. No different. 

Bling is on the money. Practice and play with the settings till you find what works. And when you find settings that work write them down with what sort of weld you did for future reference

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6 minutes ago, kws said:

Ditto, except with a label maker. 

I still haven't quite worked out how to make a weld "hotter",if it's speed or voltage. 

Voltage, or whatever is on the power knob...(mine is just 1 to 6) then adjust the wire speed to keep up with the voltage.

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Wirespeed also affects amperage I think. So it's a fine tune between turning that up and having the voltage about right to match it. I used to have settings written on my workbench. Then I sold it... I just wing it now, most of my knobs are middle of the road and I often use torch distance to work to fine tune things as I go.

I feel like low settings on a welder would only be useful if trying to weld a whole length on a join. Which you can't really do on car panels. So higher settings work better for "spot welds". I've never really used the bottom half of the range on my machine much for that reason.

Welder is currently setup:

Voltage: 22ish

Current: 110a

Inductance: 5, which is middle on mine.

Wirespeed: high

That plug welded my ~1mm panel. I was using the torch to hold the panel in place, so distance to work piece was like 2-3mm.

Each welder seems to have different knobs and whistles which probably all do the same thing.

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22 minutes ago, Bling said:

Post up your planned knob settings, could be some pointers there before you start.

That welder makes mine look like a dinosaur lol.

 

Yeah but small difference ...

Your welds look mint !

Will post up settings when I do it.

Thanks 

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I'd say middle of road for my welds, plenty of people on here could put them to shame haha. I did take my time with those since they were inspected though. But that all comes down to practice. I've been using my machine for years, haven't done a huge amount of welding compared to some. But I always practice, practice, practice things, before trying it on the real job. So I spent a bit of time with scraps like you have cut, and just played with settings till I could reproduce welds with the right penetration. Plenty of youtube videos showing what to look for. The person recommended above would be worth looking into and taking in all the information.

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Right lads, got the welder out and cracked out this practice welds using the recommended settings.

Actually pretty happy with them for a practice weld. Problem is though , if I use this setting on the escort itself I I blow holes. Hopefully that is rectified by practice though . 

Cheers, opinions and criticism welcome !

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