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Posted
On 24/01/2024 at 18:28, mjrstar said:

Yeah Dave Thomsen. He's a gc and still into his motorsport.

Funny, I can see their workshop from my desk now after moving work buildings.

 

Thinking about this car recently, with moving buildings I can't always get a secure car park anymore so would have to park in the wild. Which sucks, because I've been driving stuff that gets stolen a lot.

So my thoughts are, either buy a boring Leaf for the commute and not care about parking, probably still drive something interesting once a week. Or building this lancer up into a sleeper type thing.

Still 5x114.3 but maybe base the brakes on fitting within 15", or possibly 16" with hubcaps to hide the 5 stud?

Black intercooler.

I'd prefer to fit some better seats, but could put supercheap auto seat covers over them.

There is also the problem of life being so damn expensive these days. Car projects are a very low priority unfortunately. Except the ones I plan to sell.

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Posted

Yeah Dave still races the Lancer and various other mitsi turbo concoctions regularly at Manfield. I think still fwd turbo even. 

 

@SLIDEWAYZ sounds like you are at the time in the middle of your life when you need to buy a Lexus daily driver :grin:

Posted
On 27/08/2024 at 15:32, Rhyscar said:

Yeah Dave still races the Lancer and various other mitsi turbo concoctions regularly at Manfield. I think still fwd turbo even. 

 

@SLIDEWAYZ sounds like you are at the time in the middle of your life when you need to buy a Lexus daily driver :grin:

Didn't know there was another similar name haha, not me anyway. But yep, smack bang in the middle now. Wife, 2 kids, a dog and a mortgage. And yet I'm still driving the same 80's and 90's stuff haha.

EDIT: It been suggested I talk to one of the Thomsens about Mivec turbo stuff. I haven't yet because I don't want to waste their time with a project that isn't on the top of the list.

 

I've had a GS350 for 10 years now! I barely drive it though, it's for the wife and kids. Good car, getting a bit war torn now though, it's a 2008 so getting a bit old I guess but it's stupid reliable.

I actually bid on a Leaf a few days ago, only planning to get it if really cheap but it went higher than I wanted. Just want to try out an EV really. Amazing you can pick one up for $3500 now, just the bad battery cooling (lack of) that wrecks them.

 

Hmmm my wife suggested I get one of those cheap leaves so I don't have to worry about parking, but.....how far would $3500 get me with a turbo mivec awd sleeper...  

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Posted

If you're going to get a cheap leaf, get one with the black interior (not tan) as its the newer AZE0 and the batteries are less likely to be completely shite. Can recommend as a cheap daily though, goes hard.

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  • 4 months later...
Posted

This thing!

Found a 5 stud FTO at pick a part, read on an old forum that they are a direct bolt on.

Went to go get them and found the wheels still on the car with lock nuts. Annoying, tried getting them off but ended up get a set of these lock nut removal sockets that you hammer on.

Went back a few weeks later and got them off.

 

20241201_150035.thumb.jpg.38fcf39d7ea91926837633581eb98d32.jpg

 

All bolts on and correct width to mount to the struts, low ball joint is correct etc.

20250120_170319.jpg.5115b4eb47157b20432f390ff7c1b6cc.jpg

Interestingly the backing plate has 4wd stamped in it, even though it's a fwd FTO.

20250120_170323.jpg.bfb91e7b726b29e8ca00397195e89ef7.jpg

Out of interest I tried fitting some s14 280mm rotors and they almost fit. Centre bore is right but touches the back plate a bit. Easy fix but will most likely use mitsi rotors.

20250120_170354.jpg.cedc2015496052b287ac9189e5cacdab.jpg20250120_170351.jpg.a6227439472634f6a353a5d16e787a2d.jpg

20250120_170948.thumb.jpg.f49f04e43c837d3bb72025887eef12af.jpg

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Posted

Test fit of some 17x9.5 -20 wheels that are for my 200sx.

Obviously a bit silly:

20250120_170723.thumb.jpg.d491325272833755d9fbe20dafc367ce.jpg20250120_170745.jpg.cabff4e0e60a13131fe65006328ae2f5.jpg

Then a factory jzx100 16inch wheel, centre bore is too small but gives an idea. Also terrible offset.

20250120_171810.jpg.c1e744c0575063e790e0c1e44bad8b09.jpg20250120_171819.thumb.jpg.0a0a4e356b8d1f52a9fb8d9f5c677ccc.jpg

 

Plenty of space with these 280mm rotors within 16's.

20250120_171118.thumb.jpg.ca5346b768076130687cd28661dfdd62.jpg

 

Also found a replacement monsoon shield.

20250120_172029.thumb.jpg.d6c66e1b93f5a62c2a83e888269db772.jpg

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Posted
6 minutes ago, bigfoot said:

I have a set of evo 4 front discs and callipers sitting in my hoard

Thanks, they'd be the 276mm ish ones and non brembos? My plan is to use some GTO sumitomo 4 pots and figure out the best rotor to try keep it a sleeper type thing. 

Posted

Gto 4 pots are ultra hungry for spoke clearance, this was my plan A for mx5, I ended up with MA70 Toyota sliding calipers.

A good sliding 2 pot and correct pad selection can do a very good job on a car that's not super heavy. They just don't look as cool.

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Posted
4 minutes ago, mjrstar said:

@bigfoot same caliper between airtrek and evo 4, just a different bracket to go from 272 to 294. A swap I have completed on my turbo airtrek.

I did that swap on my airtrek, evo calliper bracket didn't fit hub but the legnum ones I had in stock worked

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Posted

those GTO sumitomo's wont bolt up to that knuckle, you'll need an adapter bracket. the 'small' GTO brakes are 295x30mm while the 'large' GTO brakes are 315x30mm. You could use the prefacelift 96-97 8G Galant/Legnum VR-4 calipers with 294x26mm Grandis/Outlander rotors and that will be bolt on. The 380 uses 294x28mm rotors and chunkier calipers but they wont bolt to your knuckle assembly either. 

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Posted
17 hours ago, mjrstar said:

Gto 4 pots are ultra hungry for spoke clearance, this was my plan A for mx5, I ended up with MA70 Toyota sliding calipers.

A good sliding 2 pot and correct pad selection can do a very good job on a car that's not super heavy. They just don't look as cool.

I actually assumed they were the same Sumitomo 4 pot design that Nissan and others used but after an image search, they look quite different. I have them on my 200sx and had to shave the Nissan lettering to fit those black wheels above, they fit fine with RPF1 17x9.5 +18 though. I was vaguely thinking of sharing the RPF1's but since then I've been leaning towards making this Lancer a sleeper without cutting the guards, so it's actually appealing to maybe use the 2 pot slide calipers.

I assume 294mm rotors need 16's, but I could still make it look sleeper/normal. Not sure 276mm would be enough, but that might fit under 15's.

The GTO sumitomo's would be coming from a work mate, rebuilt etc which is why I was considering it. He upgraded to the later GTO brakes from memory.

Are there good pads available for those 2 pots?

 

Posted
15 hours ago, fuel said:

those GTO sumitomo's wont bolt up to that knuckle, you'll need an adapter bracket. the 'small' GTO brakes are 295x30mm while the 'large' GTO brakes are 315x30mm. You could use the prefacelift 96-97 8G Galant/Legnum VR-4 calipers with 294x26mm Grandis/Outlander rotors and that will be bolt on. The 380 uses 294x28mm rotors and chunkier calipers but they wont bolt to your knuckle assembly either. 

Yep re GTO calipers fitting, I was considering this:

https://freakyparts.co.uk/products/gto-caliper-upgrade-for-fto

But maybe I should keep an eye out for a Legnum VR4 at Pick a Part, there was one there a while ago but it's gone now.  

You Mitsi guys have all the good info :)

Posted
42 minutes ago, ~Slideways~ said:

 

Are there good pads available for those 2 pots?

 

Yeah, I'd use carbotech for a race pad and probably ebc for a fast Street pad, depending on what you plan on doing.Both of which will cost a few bucks but perform well. / cheaper than fixing a crash damaged car.

Posted
2 minutes ago, mjrstar said:

Yeah, I'd use carbotech for a race pad and probably ebc for a fast Street pad, depending on what you plan on doing.Both of which will cost a few bucks but perform well. / cheaper than fixing a crash damaged car.

Just a fun street car really, I built the 200sx as a semi track car so don't need another. One day I'll get to actually use it haha

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Posted
6 hours ago, ~Slideways~ said:

I actually assumed they were the same Sumitomo 4 pot design that Nissan and others used but after an image search, they look quite different. I have them on my 200sx and had to shave the Nissan lettering to fit those black wheels above, they fit fine with RPF1 17x9.5 +18 though. I was vaguely thinking of sharing the RPF1's but since then I've been leaning towards making this Lancer a sleeper without cutting the guards, so it's actually appealing to maybe use the 2 pot slide calipers.

I assume 294mm rotors need 16's, but I could still make it look sleeper/normal. Not sure 276mm would be enough, but that might fit under 15's.

The GTO sumitomo's would be coming from a work mate, rebuilt etc which is why I was considering it. He upgraded to the later GTO brakes from memory.

Are there good pads available for those 2 pots?

 

276mm with 2 pot clears 15s(almost 14s) on my 79 lancer and pulls it up fine.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Realised a small snag with the idea of using the 4g93 T pistons with forged rods (maxpee'ing / spool type thing $700ish), the problem is that the factory wrist pins are press fit and all aftermarket rods are designed for floating. So the gsr pistons don't have c-clips to hold the pins in.

I want this project to be a parts bin low budget type thing and fix the main issue of rod strength. The idea is far more interesting than just throwing money at it, else it would make more sense to just start with an Evo.

Plus I really want to see what a Mivec head can do with some forced induction. Which means I need to use the 4g93 1.8 block and matching gearbox.

So I have some options:

1. Use stock rods and pistons and keep the boost low to 10psi. Cheap, but risky and not really taking advantage of the Mivec head.

2. Forged rods (4g93 has 19mm wrist pin) and machine c-clip grooves into the gsr pistons. Probably not worth the hassle and cost.

3. Ca18det factory rods (20mm pin), these apparently fit with some machining (think its thickness of big end) then use 4agze 8.9:1 pistons (20mm pin and known strength for about $100 per piston). These need a small amount taken out of the skirt to clear the crank.

4. Forged ca18 rods for the 20mm pin as above, still need machining.

5. Forged rods and forged pistons. Easiest and strongest. But about $2k pistons and $700 rods.

 

Right now, I like the idea of ca18det rods and 4agze pistons. Fits with the parts bin idea and cheaper.

 

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