Flash's 66 mustang

[tortron]

If its rippled to shit from previous hammering I have had excellent results from a shrinking disk too. 

 

I had to reprofile the bend body line in my doors and it friggan sucked tho as lower half where all the layers are close together

[Flash]

Yep, the ripples are a real bugger. Just below the inner skin too so I can't even get in from behind to knock them. I'm cursing my decision to pull all the bog out, but I wanted to make sure there was no more rust lurking under there and also the bottom panel definitely had that bloated look that you get when too much bog has been applied. Was also sitting way proud of the same lower panel on the front fender and back quarter panel with all that mud. So having said all of that I'm glad I removed it. It's just dealing with the aftermath now.

I reckon the cross hatch sanding pattern that the video shows is going to be the silver bullet. Never even crossed my mind to try that, so I'm really grateful to you for the suggestion.

Can't wait to give it another go.

[tortron]

Can always add more bog knowing that the substrate is rust free

 

Itl be our secret

[rusty360]

Yep differnatly sand on a angle, works a treat to remove the highs and lows.

[Flash]

Gave the angle sanding a go today using a shorter block and its looking much better. Thanks again for the advice.

[63Ragtop]

I would suggest something like this for the rear cover.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/electronics-photography/ipod-mp3-accessories/speakers/listing/3589883227

Won't muffle the sound and isn't to expensive.

[Flash]

12 minutes ago, 63Ragtop said:

I would suggest something like this for the rear cover.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/electronics-photography/ipod-mp3-accessories/speakers/listing/3589883227

Won't muffle the sound and isn't to expensive.

Thanks heaps for the suggestion. Chur.

[igor]

Looking good. I think the hotwires suit it.

[Flash]

Thanks for the feedback on the wheels @igor. They are way better than the blings it's currently got on it. What's with Ozzies and their big bloody wheels ?

[cletus]

Looking good! Nice work. 

 

+1 for smaller wheels. 

[Flash]

20 hours ago, cletus said:

Looking good! Nice work. 

 

+1 for smaller wheels. 

Thanks for the feedback Clint. I really appreciate it.

[bryck]

Before and after shot is awesome, new wheels are a massive improvement

[Flash]

2 hours ago, bryck said:

Before and after shot is awesome, new wheels are a massive improvement

Thanks for that mate. I really appreciate the feedback.

[dabuzz]

Waaaay better in the wheels department - cant stand those American racing style wheels - literally 90% of mustangs either have those or Cragars, very little imagination in that scene 

 

[Flash]

1 hour ago, dabuzz said:

Waaaay better in the wheels department - cant stand those American racing style wheels - literally 90% of mustangs either have those or Cragars, very little imagination in that scene 

 

Thanks heaps for the feedback. I must admit that I agonised over the wheel decision for quite a while. I definitely wanted to go back to something close to the original diameter, but like you say I didn't want to end up with something common.  One of my favorite cars is an AC Cobra in that dark metallic blue colour with the original Halibrand knock off wheels and I figured the new wheels with the classic unfinished looking centre and a polished lip would hark back to that era. I've got a set of polished aluminium knock off caps on order and can't wait for them to arrive. In my opinion they should complete the look that I am aiming for.

[cletus]

Looks real good at that height, much better! 

 

One thing to look out for on mustangs/falcons with that type of front suspension,  aftermarket upper ball joints often dont have as much travel as the original ones and the ball joint pin fouls the body of the ball joint at full/near full compression. In extreme cases this can snap the pin off 

This is from a 68 I looked at a while back, you can see the dent where the pin has been hitting the body and made a dent 

 

[Flash]

Thanks for the heads up Clint. I'll need to watch out for this issue.

I'd be interested to know if that 68 Mustang that you are referring to had been modified with what they call the Shelby drop (also called Arning drop). It's a modification that relocates the upper arm and is supposed to improve handling, but at the expense of causing ball joint lock ups. The cure is to fit a ball joint wedge to prevent the issue. Looks to me like that might have been the cause for that damage. Did you notice whether the upper arms had been relocated ?

Here is a picture of a car that has had the modification done. The tell tale sign is a double row of locating holes for the upper arms.

Would be hard to see unless you were specifically looking for them, I guess.

 

[cletus]

No, it didn't have the Shelby drop done.

 

all the cars I've checked for bump steer with the Shelby drop done, have had worse toe change than factory

Plus the ball joint bind issue being made even worse.

usual fix is to go back to stock  

[Flash]

I can believe that. Yep, I agree no Shelby drop for me.

It looks like an absolute hack.

[cletus]

I'm not a mustang expert, so don't know if it's what your car would have had,  but it was reasonably common amongst American manufacturers of that era, ( when there was still boosted/non boosted/disc/drum options ) to have the same pedal ratio , but have a offset crank cantilever to correct the ratio for the booster   

 

There are many aftermarket manufacturers that make similar things now