Flash's 66 mustang

[kws]

25 minutes ago, dmulally said:

Wouldn't it be the same as starting the car and immediately driving down the freeway with the airflow? The thermostat should block it from flowing until up to temp anyway. 

I have my thermo fan on a switch for my chev but unless on a winter morning and I remember I leave it on. I'm not sure banana benders get winters however. Putting on the shroud I found made the biggest difference for my overheating dramas and in the end was the engine itself. 

I don't quite follow what you're saying, but I believe the theory behind the fan restricting airflow at speed is something to do with the powered fan causing a difference in air pressure and the ram air effect of driving at speed can't overcome it to flow smoothly through the radiator. The air stalls and doesn't pull away the heat. 

In contrast if the fan isn't powered it'll just freewheel or remain stationary at speed and the ram air will flow through the fan unimpeded. 

I'm not a scientist though, I just remember being told it a few times in my travels. Might be an old Barrie's tale. 

[dmulally]

Ahhh I see what you're saying. I thought you were talking about overcooling. My bad!

What you're saying makes sense. 

[Flash]

Thanks for the additional comments fellas. First thing this morning I re-wired the thermo fan back to the temp switch. I'm not able to hear the fan come on over the rumble of the V8 so I'm thinking that I might just temporarily fit a little indicator light inside the cabin so that I can monitor exactly when the thermo fan cycles in and out.

I'll keep the a/c condenser out of the car for now until I upgrade the radiator. Spoke to a local a/c parts supplier who supplies kits to many of the muscle car and hot rod boys this morning as I wanted to find out if there is such a thing as an a/c condenser that is less restrictive on airflow. Turns out that although you can get high performance condensers that will improve a/c efficiency they pretty much all have the same airflow properties. When I described my overheating symptoms, he straight away said that I should be looking at upgrading the radiator.

[dmulally]

I'm sure you have looked at this option but with some ducting perhaps the below would be an option. 

https://www.southernrods.com/a-c-and-heat-components/remote-condenser-fan-combo.html

I'd possibly put horizontal under the radiator mounted with a small scoop. Or perhaps off to a side. 

 

[Flash]

4 hours ago, dmulally said:

I'm sure you have looked at this option but with some ducting perhaps the below would be an option. 

https://www.southernrods.com/a-c-and-heat-components/remote-condenser-fan-combo.html

I'd possibly put horizontal under the radiator mounted with a small scoop. Or perhaps off to a side. 

 

Thanks for this. Yep, I have been investigating a similar option for my Thames van, so it did cross my mind on whether that might be an option for the Mustang. Biggest issue is finding the real estate underneath to mount this. I've dropped it so low to the ground and on top of this it's pretty busy under the old Mustang what with the dual exhaust, big auto tranny and the fuel tank that runs across almost the full width behind the rear axle. I thought about trying to tuck it up inside one of the front fenders with a small duct, but sadly just not enough clearance. 

[dmulally]

Ahh I see what you mean. That is a pain. 

Perhaps near the diff?

My trick for lowered cars is to set the front number plate at the same height as the sump or whatever. Then if you hear that scratch find another supermarket with less annoying speed bumps!

[cletus]

Are there any engineering/rego rules in Australia with modified fuel systems?

Only reason I ask is in nz, you aren't allowed to fit a fuel tank forward of the front axle centerline, which has caught a couple of people out with those Fitech things 

[Flash]

57 minutes ago, cletus said:

Are there any engineering/rego rules in Australia with modified fuel systems?

Only reason I ask is in nz, you aren't allowed to fit a fuel tank forward of the front axle centerline, which has caught a couple of people out with those Fitech things 

That's a bloody good question Clint. Thanks for raising it. I'll look into the local rules.

[Flash]

1 hour ago, cletus said:

Are there any engineering/rego rules in Australia with modified fuel systems?

Only reason I ask is in nz, you aren't allowed to fit a fuel tank forward of the front axle centerline, which has caught a couple of people out with those Fitech things 

@cletusThanks again for raising this point. I've just taken a look at LM10 which is the Queensland regs covering fuel system modifications and it states: "Any fuel tank or fuel system component must be at least 100mm inboard of the permanent body line". I guess the million-dollar question is whether they include the grill, front bumper and valance as part of the "permanent body line"

I'd be keen to hear your thoughts on this.

[Gee]

Hi Flash,

I had a FiTech fuel commander and the only place it would fit is in front of the shock tower. The only issue I had was a leak from the -ve terminal due to poor quality of the unit. FiTech don't make mine now and I sold it as I'm going to use an in tank pump. the WOF guys didn't care where it was fitted.

I'm a bit slow to the exhaust party but did you sort it? When I fitted pacemakers to my Cleveland they had heaps of leaks and only cleared up with gasket sealant, new gaskets didn't help. I could even hear them when the bonnet was up. Have you tried high temp gasket goo?

[Flash]

Thanks for checking in @Gee I've been keeping an eye on your Mustang updates. I was sorry to see your recent mishap with your work bench. I guess it's a good excuse to get some paintwork touched up.

Yep, I've heard a few reports about some of the Fitech kit not being the best quality. It's still early days for me, but so far so good. Touch wood.

I'm still struggling with fumes, but it's really weird. Only seems to happen when I stop at an intersection or drop down to a slow crawl and is most prevalent when the engine temp is up. It's almost like a wave of fumes that enters through the open windows. I can't feel any leaks around the engine since I fitted the new manifold gaskets, but as you know there isn't much space around the headers to get your hands real close so there may still be some slight leaks. Thanks for the tip on the high temp gasket goo. Yep, my current headers look to be real poor quality, so that could well be a contributing factor.

I'm about to borrow my mate's compression tester as I'm wondering if the rings might be a bit tired and maybe the PCV valve isn't able to cope. Talking about the PCV valve it is one of those chrome ones that are usually fitted to the aftermarket rocker covers. Anyway, the other day I pulled the little one-way thingy out of the PCV valve and have just temporarily fitted the elbow on its own. It seems to have improved things quite a bit. My lumpy cam only pulls about -7 vac at idle, so that may be another contributing factor.

I checked the spark plugs out last weekend just to see how the engine is burning and the plugs look really good, a light brown colour so my fuelling looks to be spot on, but I did notice that they are a hotter plug (NGK AP5FS) so I'm wondering if I should try a set of colder plugs just to see if that makes a difference. Am thinking about going to the AP6FS.

The fumes are a real pity as apart from that I'm really enjoying the car.

[Gee]

I kept the FiTech throttle body and will still use it, I found it was a massive improvement on the carb and cheap and easy to use. The new fuel sump looks much better so I doubt you will have the same issues. 

My Fairmont originally only had standard breathers and when I stopped I'd see fumes but once running a PCV that seemed to stop. The Mustang has a PCV as well and has no issues with exhaust but did get fuel fumes with a full tank. I think the cap was not sealing but I think I fixed that. Did you notice a change in the exhaust fumes with the FITech? My Fairmont was cleaner afterward due to better AFR but that is just tailpipe not under bonnet. I could actually see the gassing on the old Cleveland till I ran the PCV. Since I owned the Fairmont for 20 years I was used to a bit of fuminess compared to my daily drivers.

[Flash]

No difference to the fumes between the carby and the Fitech which is a bugger as I thought that might solve the issue.

Sounds like you won with the PCV install. I'm guessing you had the PCV on one bank only with a breather cap on the other bank ?

[Gee]

Yep, just one. It seemed to clean it up. Running direct with no PCV valve should clean it up and prove the system but could cause it to lean out at revs. If it did clean it up maybe the PCV is gunked up?

I fitted the FiTech as the Fairmont was a prick to start if left sitting and backfired a few times which blew out the power valve causing massive over fueling. With the FiTech and the supporting mods it started first time every time and ran mint. The carb would bog as I was dumb and fitted big valves in 2v heads with a only slightly warm cam. The EFI cleaned this mostly up. I could now floor it and it would just go. It even gained 10kw when mashed on the dyno compared to 18 months of driving. While it is cheap and other systems are better the FiTech still works like it is supposed to. the only issue I had was the alternator (120amp bosch) which would now not come online from startup unless I blipped it. WOF guys flattened the battery every time by not doing this.

[Flash]

Yep, plan is to replace the PCV which could well be gunked up. Interesting to hear about your Bosch alternator. I fitted a 140 amp unit marketed by Aeroflow which starts charging straight from idle according to my Fitech hand held. Was your Bosch a single wire jobbie ?

[Gee]

The power steering looks familiar. My lines looked older than yours but were in really good condition apart from being burnt on the header. My new lines look exactly the same as yours, standard aftermarket I guess. I am still a bit paranoid about burning and melting the lines so I added fire sleeve. Clearance for the lines is a prick. I also had to replace my power valve and ram as both were stuffed.

I never did answer your question about the alternator. I think it was a single wire technically as the extra wires were for the electric choke not excitation or regulation. I have heard since that single wire alternators sometimes don't come online without a few revs. My current setup gives me the 'belts' light until blipped a few times.

[Flash]

5 hours ago, Gee said:

The power steering looks familiar. My lines looked older than yours but were in really good condition apart from being burnt on the header. My new lines look exactly the same as yours, standard aftermarket I guess. I am still a bit paranoid about burning and melting the lines so I added fire sleeve. Clearance for the lines is a prick. I also had to replace my power valve and ram as both were stuffed.

I never did answer your question about the alternator. I think it was a single wire technically as the extra wires were for the electric choke not excitation or regulation. I have heard since that single wire alternators sometimes don't come online without a few revs. My current setup gives me the 'belts' light until blipped a few times.

Thanks for the info on your alternator.

I've just finished rebuilding the power valve with the kit that arrived yesterday. Not too bad a job once I'd watched the CJ Pony Parts "how to" Youtube clip a good few times.

Just measured and I've got 40mm clearance between my header and the power steering pipes which sounds okay. Things can be a bit hit or miss with the aftermarket headers. My RHS one is an absolute shocker in terms of clearance. For added protection I might just wrap that LHS header so it matches the RHS one and it will also give the power steer hoses a bit of heat relief too. 

 

[Gee]

have you tried going lock to lock? As the power valve moves the lines move as well. No different from you original setup but I hit the chassis rail on one side and the header on the other.

[Flash]

2 hours ago, Gee said:

have you tried going lock to lock? As the power valve moves the lines move as well. No different from you original setup but I hit the chassis rail on one side and the header on the other.

Yep, lock to lock and the closest I get to the header is 40mm. Guess I just got lucky.

[Gee]

Hi Flash,

did you fix your steering clunk? I have basically done the same fix on my steering as the hydraulic stuff was all shagged. There is no play in mine at low speed and smooth lock to lock but at 60mph on the motorway it clunks back and forth in the centre. It will do this in high speed corners too which is slightly unnerving but as the power valve has to move 5mm before the hydraulics assist I'm not sure if this is normal. I don't have another one to compare.

I have the opposite issue to you with fumes. Stopped at idle it is pretty good, just normal carby stuff. At high speed with the main windows cracked it get a bit fumey but just using the front quarter windows it is ok. I think for mine I just need to check the tune to clean up the tailpipe.