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98cc's Cyclecar Build


98cc
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  • 1 month later...

I think the Hemmings heads and barrels were an update for SV engines, the original Hemmings barrels on this engine had been bored too much and the front one blew off just above the flange and did a bit of damage to the frame.

The guy with the KTOR motor has just had a frame made for it, Steve Raffels on the north shore made the frame, that guy who use to own Henderson hire built Morgans and aJAP engine from scratch, I gess you know him?

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21 hours ago, flyingbrick said:

Awesome!

Since you have a CNC there you could totally put an o-ring groove on one of those mating faces and use rubber cord rather than a regular gasket.. Would be hardly noticeable once assembled and would be an easy foolproof way of ensuring no leaks :-D and easy assembly/disassembly. 

There must be a reason no motorcycle maker dose that

 

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  • 11 months later...
  • 1 month later...
On 20/04/2020 at 00:04, rot808 said:

This all looks like so much fun, you will find it hard to return I bet, did you have any cars going into the Monaco pre war class?

Yep I imagine this will be the case. We did, 3 GP Bugatti’s and was going to do the Mille Miglia the weekend before. Was pretty guttered when that was all cancelled. 

On 20/04/2020 at 05:29, BlownCorona said:

that chain driven blower is so sick. 

 

i can hear it from here. 

You just about could of. Chain driven blower might have to be in this cars future. 

Cyl time.

The crowd I got the crankcases of had just done a run of cylinders and heads so I managed to get a set. It was far easier getting them sent a couple of hours down the road instead of to New Zealand that’s for sure. 

 

62F82155-076C-4428-9ECD-07DDDC6E22E0.thumb.jpeg.3d167a901853499e22ff1e0222ae7816.jpeg

First issue to sort, the only boring bar big enough was a bit large for the toolpost. 

C2628A6B-1A03-48E0-B567-99876DBE790E.thumb.jpeg.cea71ab631578498a487a2f390857b78.jpeg

Couple bits machined up and welded together 

D35C331F-FD85-45BD-95B2-3E21ABEA6566.thumb.jpeg.d4831f064d9ca783b7b80475bca959f6.jpeg

Should do the trick

1CBC774A-6C30-459A-BE05-F38484905FAB.thumb.jpeg.ceca3164cc2ae5beb24baa94b13f3f36.jpeg

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First cuts on the casting. This was a serious brown undie moment  holding the rough casting on some very narrow jaws boring out a rough casting at the other end.

 

36920A25-A7D2-4544-B6B6-FE1662515582.thumb.jpeg.fed88c47453ee82087bfd233ac30da16.jpeg

 

Bored out and head spigot machined. 3.5 inch bore

C745F169-BB4D-4711-9025-1284DFD6250A.thumb.jpeg.48d454dbb72dd99b204004c4322f1bb7.jpeg

Flipped over and cyl base machined 

92A813F2-1C49-4E21-80B1-9A7F374247A6.thumb.jpeg.cdd85fc54029aa98476e65163b51cb43.jpeg

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  • 1 year later...

Hi 98, great work, can I ask if you are using bushes or bearings to support the cams in the crankcase wall?   I believe the earlier motors had bushes, and later ones bearings, not sure when they changed. Also be very interested to know the dimensions of the main bearing you are using in the timing side, I was wondering about a Harley sportster needle roller bearing, as they are fairly compact and take a one inch mainshaft.  Also, do you have a source for the cams themselves, or are you going to make them?  I’m in Wellington and have some crankcase castings like yours.

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