azzurro Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 shot myself in the foot a bit by letting everyone know, but geddoudovit ya mongrels! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 Lol just get a wideband, so much easier than peering down a tiwncam valley at a sparkplug (which you can't check while driving). They are around $200 and probably the best investment you will ever make if you want to make a old carby car run good. With a step-drill and a mig you can install it 30min on any car, or exhaust shop will do it cheap. If you don't have a mig there is even shitty clamp on bungs. Ive had one constantly on my Buick for 5 years and its invaluable as your tune changes with the seasons and as conditions change, I got caught out the other day when I loaded it up my tune was too lean for the big load, easy to check and fix on the fly. No magic spark plug gives you this kind of accurate feedback. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 1 hour ago, Spencer said: which you can't check while driving whaddaryah, a bloody sook? https://www.carsguide.com.au/car-news/co-driver-sits-on-engine-to-finish-race-video-22641 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minister88 Posted June 8, 2017 Author Share Posted June 8, 2017 4 hours ago, Abarth said: In addition to everything mentioned above. Make sure the carbs are in balance with each other, both at idle and WOT. They will pop and cracked if ones trailing the other. Best to get a carb balancing tool, however a rough way to balance them is use some hose pipe and listen to the pitch of each throttle when its running. Another rough way is to pull the lead off one cylinder while running and if the motor doesn't stumble that much it means that cylinder isn't doing much work, i.e. give that carb more throttle in the idle speed adjustment. But yeah best to get the basic tools like a carb balancer and a glass spark plug. Both these tools are awesome for on going tuning after its been setup right by someone like Weber Specialties. Edit: if the fuel pressure was to high it would be leaving massive puddles of petrol on the floor from fuel pouring out the front of the carbs. I've made that mistake before lol. Thanks Abarth, do you know of any NZ suppliers selling Uni-Syn or a carb balancing tool? Looks like ebay sells a lot of them but non available in NZ..I have called the likes of Repco/SCA/Partmaster BNT etc, no-one supplies any Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minister88 Posted June 8, 2017 Author Share Posted June 8, 2017 3 hours ago, Spencer said: Lol just get a wideband, so much easier than peering down a tiwncam valley at a sparkplug (which you can't check while driving). They are around $200 and probably the best investment you will ever make if you want to make a old carby car run good. With a step-drill and a mig you can install it 30min on any car, or exhaust shop will do it cheap. If you don't have a mig there is even shitty clamp on bungs. Ive had one constantly on my Buick for 5 years and its invaluable as your tune changes with the seasons and as conditions change, I got caught out the other day when I loaded it up my tune was too lean for the big load, easy to check and fix on the fly. No magic spark plug gives you this kind of accurate feedback. Thanks Spencer, I think I recall seeing one of these below the exhaust manifold on my celica. Might take a pic when I get home Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minister88 Posted June 8, 2017 Author Share Posted June 8, 2017 I'll try get the following done this weekend - the normal maintenance and eliminate the possible serviceable item issues. - Check cam timing - sort out a carburetor balancing tool - link up wideband (if its the one on the manifold) - and new spark plugs for the 3rd time this week! Hopefully with the above done, I can drive it to a proper carby tuner who can sprinkle their magic to make it drive properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abarth Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 Weber Specialties should sell a carb balancer. Gunson make a cheap one, I have his one and tbh it's a bit flakey but works. Wideband certainly has its merits as Spencer noted. Especially under load. However the old side drafts have individual settings for idle mixture on each throttle which adjust themselves. My Abarth actually has the bungs on each extractor for tuning with a wideband or EGT. But yeah for a basic mixture balance the old glass plug works fine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minister88 Posted June 8, 2017 Author Share Posted June 8, 2017 ignoring the previous owners effort to make the oem manifold look like a proper header, does that look like a narrowband? @Abarthis this the one u have? https://www.thetoyshop.co.nz/the-tool-co-product/gunson-range/carbalancer?i=2882&c=438 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin'joe Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 both have been chopped, but i am sure one can be used with appropriate sensor. my DHLA's are tuned oldschool styles, but i should get clever and get wideband for brutal honesty. if you stuck,and no-one has one to lend, i do have a syncrometer if you need it to borrow. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minister88 Posted June 8, 2017 Author Share Posted June 8, 2017 42 minutes ago, smokin'joe said: both have been chopped, but i am sure one can be used with appropriate sensor. my DHLA's are tuned oldschool styles, but i should get clever and get wideband for brutal honesty. if you stuck,and no-one has one to lend, i do have a syncrometer if you need it to borrow. Thanks Smokin Joe but I better get one for myself since i'll be needing one long term. I hope the day will come when I can tune my carbies with only a rubber pipe and ear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abarth Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 Yeah that's the balancer I have. $80 seems steep though. They are £20 in the U.K.. Probably cheaper to buy one from the UK and ship it home with NZPosts YouShop if you wanted it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin'joe Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 27 minutes ago, Minister88 said: I hope the day will come when I can tune my carbies with only a rubber pipe and ear. i reckon there'd be fuck all people that can tune by ear, better than tuning by tools, hence the reason even a queer old cunt like me needs to get with the times and get a wideband !! the guys that do the final tune on the Levin are probably tone deaf (like me) and maybe only improve 5-10% on my base tune. proper measuring tools (synrcometer and wideband) would possibly be the same increase again. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 17 hours ago, Spencer said: Lol just get a wideband, so much easier than peering down a tiwncam valley at a sparkplug (which you can't check while driving). They are around $200 and probably the best investment you will ever make if you want to make a old carby car run good. With a step-drill and a mig you can install it 30min on any car, or exhaust shop will do it cheap. If you don't have a mig there is even shitty clamp on bungs. Ive had one constantly on my Buick for 5 years and its invaluable as your tune changes with the seasons and as conditions change, I got caught out the other day when I loaded it up my tune was too lean for the big load, easy to check and fix on the fly. No magic spark plug gives you this kind of accurate feedback. This , tuning in the garage only gives you a start tune , being able to read that shit out on the road under road conditions is invaluable , long gone are the days of bazza ted tuning his 202 by putting his cup of coffee on the rocker cover. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minister88 Posted June 12, 2017 Author Share Posted June 12, 2017 On 6/8/2017 at 09:11, Seedy Al said: I like adding stuff to stuff were the 40 mikunis the original ones that came on this engine? I know you have stated it was a 18rgeu But what i mean is are they after market, or the ones that were the factory option carb version for these? I only ask, as I had a 18rg powered van with the factory twin side drafts, it would constantly foul plugs, pop and fart, and throw flames out the exhaust on down shift. i read somewhere about those carbs, and that the main jets like to unscrew them selves, causing epic over fueling. i pulled mine part and found exactly this. depends on the carbs, this could be the cause of your issue. Hi Seedy Al, The ones on the car is an oem Mikuni 40ph Type S5 off an 18RG. I will open up the jet cover today and double check. When this did occur, did all 4 cylinders ran rich or was it just one cylinder? Thanks Min Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 Was more like one cylinder. But I had found that all 4 were lose. Just that one was worse than the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minister88 Posted June 13, 2017 Author Share Posted June 13, 2017 22 hours ago, Seedy Al said: Was more like one cylinder. But I had found that all 4 were lose. Just that one was worse than the other. thanks Al Just tighten them both but doesnt feel like they were loose in the first place. looks like i have to keep digging! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin'joe Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 On 13/06/2017 at 11:50, Minister88 said: Hi Seedy Al, The ones on the car is an oem Mikuni 40ph Type S5 off an 18RG. I will open up the jet cover today and double check. When this did occur, did all 4 cylinders ran rich or was it just one cylinder? Thanks Min just a thought, if my depleted memory serves me less alzheimer than normal........... didn't the 18rg come out with 44pph mikuni/solex carbs, and the 2tg got the 40pph ?? some slippery skippy mite have fleeced the good working 44's and swapped for manky worn 40's ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 From the info we have and the pic of the exhaust with what looks like a narrow-band O2 sensor its a ex-injected 18R with carbs chucked on? Its a recipe for disaster when cunts have bunged things together and not engineered the solution properly, takes ages to dial in some foreign old carbs which no cunt ever actually does. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minister88 Posted June 14, 2017 Author Share Posted June 14, 2017 55 minutes ago, smokin'joe said: just a thought, if my depleted memory serves me less alzheimer than normal........... didn't the 18rg come out with 44pph mikuni/solex carbs, and the 2tg got the 40pph ?? some slippery skippy mite have fleeced the good working 44's and swapped for manky worn 40's ? As far as googling goes, both 18rg and 2tg came with 40phh. 18rg had the 40ph type S5 and 2tg had the S4. 44phh were only used on the 151e and 152e engines. (But I could be wrong) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minister88 Posted June 14, 2017 Author Share Posted June 14, 2017 47 minutes ago, Spencer said: From the info we have and the pic of the exhaust with what looks like a narrow-band O2 sensor its a ex-injected 18R with carbs chucked on? Its a recipe for disaster when cunts have bunged things together and not engineered the solution properly, takes ages to dial in some foreign old carbs which no cunt ever actually does. Can't agree with you more. already gone through 2 weekends trying to troubleshoot the issues... This car original had an 18rg with these carbs in perth until 3 days before getting into a container, the valves cracked and go stuck. Hence we sourced and slapped on an 18rgeu with the same carb configuration from the original 18rg. I assume the manifold is for the 18rgeu configuration with efi hence the narrowband. Just tried compression testing the cylinders but realized theres a vacuum leak on my tester.. constantly smacking my fukn head on the wall;;; Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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