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Posted

Good to know about the pump, was just looking at VW and BMW ones, would still prefer the stock setup if poss.
The parts catalog carb specs match what I've got (i.e. 102 mj and 35 pj) but the manual, which is in Japanese has 95 for the mj (difference in petrol?)

 

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Posted
10 hours ago, Raizer said:

@Vintage Grumble are you able to do small belts?

 

You likely know, but that looks to be a Toyota Prius water pump, probably the best thing to come from a Prius lol

Got carb specs in your book there?

I'll have a geeze when I get to work, I think they're an M or Z section or summin.

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Posted

another local belt option be John Brooks on railway ave.

bizarre leanness is bizarre, raizer if crank seals are poked would the big dogg jet be enough to allow it to start? just curious.

Posted

One would expect if crank seals were that poked, to get it that lean, then it wouldnt push enough into the cylinder to run. And you'd be able to hear it leaking!

 

Is it actually getting enough fuel Kicker? wasn't your fuel tap a bit ham?
Float height?
Intake Gaskets?

Are these reed or piston port?

Posted
1 hour ago, Goat said:

One would expect if crank seals were that poked, to get it that lean, then it wouldnt push enough into the cylinder to run. And you'd be able to hear it leaking!

 

Is it actually getting enough fuel Kicker? wasn't your fuel tap a bit ham?
Float height?
Intake Gaskets?

Are these reed or piston port?

+1 on fuel tap/pump - my FR had fueling issues for ages and i ended up selling it. guy who bought it direct plumbed from the tank past the small diaphragm pump/tap and problem solved.

Posted
6 hours ago, Vintage Grumble said:

@kickerIts a timing belt (thought it was a v-belt/couldn't see on my phone) 375-5M, and I happen to stock it, so can cut it at 6mm wide for you. They would be $4.70ea + freight down to ya'll.

Cheers dude, will pm you

Posted

I'm gonna go through it all bit by bit and check everything again, will give me a chance to clean up a few parts too.

Have enjoyed riding this thing the few times I've been out, it rips along when it's on pipe

  • Like 3
Posted

Okie doke, bit by bit the checking starts. Just checked the fuel flow through the tap. The black line on the measuring cup is 50ml which it takes about 10 seconds to reach. Not sure on actual flow rate required but at 300ml per minute it'll empty the tank in about 17.

Once my new plug cap turns up the next will be to test it with the engine running to see if it is the same. In the mean time I'll dig out my stash of sweet yellow Tygon fuel hose and shiny new clamps and replace both vacuum and supply hoses.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I have been a bit slack lately but have been attempting to vacuum test the crankcase and intake.
After trying a few different methods it still won't hold a vacuum so next step is to blow some air in and see if I can see where it's coming out.

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Posted

Not that ive ever heard of or seen it done, but if you put a couple of dry ice pellets in the intake then tested it would they leak visible gas out any holes/leaks?

or soapy water test on outside. But youd be more scientitian with dry ice

Posted

It could give you a good excuse to split the case and reseal it with some fresh case sealant and new gaskets?

While your in there it wouldn't hurt to throw in a couple new crank bearings, maybe port out the intake channels in the case and polish everything in there while it's apart...

Posted

Gave it a blow today, could very clearly hear air escaping from the left hand side of the engine behind the starter gear. Once I make a little puller to get the gear off I'll be able to see whats up with the seal, must be proper fucked though as I can blow a lot of air through it.

Stay tuned, or not

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