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Kicker's Honda Beat FC50


kicker

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Bog = lean normally, normally with a moooaww noise if really lean like if you tried running with no air filter.

11g is 4t territory for rollers imo, my Gyro came with a couple NOS sets of Honda rollers one set is 8g and the part number cross references with 2t Gyro and some Dio models etc and the other set are 11g and match up to 4t.

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yeah lean. if not way lean. needs to be chocolate brown. id even check if its pumping oil

Was that a full WOT plug chop? id be a bit worried to WOT on that colour though.

What air filter / air box are you using?

drop the needle clip a notch at a time see if it browns up - otherwise bigger main jet. mixture screw and pilot dont usually come into effect anywhere past 1/2 to 3/4 throttle anyway

but im sure there'll be debate

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Oil pump is working and set to specs as per Honda workshop manual. Stock airbox, replacement filter, manifold/carb gasket and o-ring are good.
I don't get it, looks too lean to me too but everything is stock. Hopefully the crank seals are still ok, I have some bits to test if the crankcase can hold pressure so might give that a jam.
Also have some jets on the way, once they arrive I might just fit my new pipe and tune with my wideband and see how it goes. 

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crankcase air leak, or any air leaks really (unless its huge) shouldnt make that much difference.

Needle should help anyway - i'm guessing you've still got two notches to drop?

is the replacement filter paper or foam? / have you oiled the foam?

ive seen carb airleaks around the top where the slide removes from if that gasket goes too.

if it runs well at that setting have you tried upping the oilpump setting to compensate?

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Replacement filter is oiled foam as was original, carb top gasket seems good i.e. rubber is intact and not hard.
I was under the impression that adding more oil creates a lean situation (if the jetting remains the same) as it displaces gas in the combustion mixture.
 

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the oil pump tweak was more thinking out loud, thinking more oil would reduce the chance of it seizing at WOT. your gas reasoning sounds more sciencey, so go with that.

but definitely start with the needle i think, depending on its taper it could make a decent difference with just what adjustment you have available in the notches

what are the running symptoms like as it is?

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Seriously a 102mj??

I would have thought stock would have been in the 65-75 range.

 

Either way that does look lean for sure.

How old is the plug?  And is there any brown on the smoke ring?

 

This is from my Suzuki after a 1.5k WOT run, new plug, straght to WOT and no mid throttle.

5rEt5Nb.jpg

Borderline lean looking, but I'm happy with the CHT.

 

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Don't get me wrong I'm no expert on 2 stroke tuning, it was just one thing I picked up talking to a couple experienced guys about RD350/400 stuff :)
The main symptom is when idling after coming to a stop the revs eventually drop and it takes a little bit for it to wake up again, after a couple revs it seems happy and will take off quickly and rev right out (on the stock cdi).
Plug is new but was not brand new, wasn't a proper plug chop either as it was just a blat around the neighbourhood. I haven't been able to ride again since then (plus I should stick an old plate on it or something :)  ). I'll try and get out over the weekend and have a play, maybe some WOT runs past @Steelies place.

Yeah I was surprised at 102 for the main, I suspected it was gonna be more than normal due to the VTACS/pipe combo but I was thinking 90 at the most, gotta feed those 7 and a bit ponies I guess.

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2 hours ago, kicker said:

The main symptom is when idling after coming to a stop the revs eventually drop and it takes a little bit for it to wake up again, after a couple revs it seems happy and will take off quickly and rev right out (on the stock cdi)@Steelies

 

Yeah that sounds like lean hang too, have you tried adjusting the low speed/idle mix screw?         

You no doubt already know the drill but set it to a fairly low idle, wind in the mix screw until it starts wanting to cut out, then wind it back out until you find the point where it idles highest, then fine tune in tiny increments to get the best throttle response.

 

I'm still WTF'ing at the 102mj, I'm at something like 107 with a pipe on a ported 70cc and open filter!

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Did some testing today, I found that a street near my place works for wide open runs, one corner requires some bravery if there are cars parked on the side of the road.
Got a good 1.2k's of WOT on a spankers new plug and.....

Shit's whiter than out of sync clapping along to music
gbOm1iU.jpg

qbffSPZ.jpg

Also, just to keep me on my toes, the plug cap snapped in half when I pulled it off. At least it was mostly downhill back to my place.
So now I'm waiting for my jets and a new plug boot to turn up before I do anymore.

Actually I should probably fix the slow leak in the rear tyre, then clean up the rim, then clean up the front rim, then clean up the front forks cos they'll look shit otherwise.

 

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I decided to order some crank seals so I can rule them out, after consulting the parts catalog which conveniently had the seal sizes I need, a couple Dio seals will be the go, part numbers 91202-GAH-721 and 91201-GK8-003

icPuxBF.jpg

While removing stuff in preparation for replacing the seals I found this

2UsFD0p.jpg

Womp wah, it's the tiny water pump belt. If anyone knows where to find a 375mm long, 6mm wide, 5mm pitch (75 tooth) belt, let me know.
Backup plan if I can't find a belt is going to an electric pump, similar to below

qm3n1xnv.sgp.jpg

 

 



 

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