Jump to content

Daves new school holden shambles


Muncie

Recommended Posts

Long time between posts.... so just bought someone else turbo ecotec project eg all the bits to get the turbo on, plus another turbo which will be up for grabs I'll be running mine rather than this thing.

Surprisingly expensive build im 10x the cost of the car and counting now to be fair car was cheap as fuck originally. 

Will maybe be at dragday as a spectator this year. But lookout this summer!

Going to have to do something about the paint too poor things not so great got hit by a garden shed in a storm a wee while back.

Screenshot_20230730_191211.jpg

 

Screenshot_20230730_191251.jpg

  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 337
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

In my experience Innovate stuff works well although I have heard a fair few complaints about them too.  I bought a stand alone Innovate LM-1 setup 15-20 years ago and it only started playing up a couple of years ago after a hard life being fitted to dozens and dozens of cars. I replaced it with a stand alone LM2 which has worked perfectly ever since.  I have also fitted a fair few MTXL's into customers cars back when it was my day job.  Key thing is following the instructions on how to warm them up vs engine start and I think @Roman has mentioned it a fair few times about delaying the sensor heating until after the engine has started so any moisture is blown out of the sensor.  I haven't had any experience with Innovates boost control and prefer to control that via the ecu ie Link, but I haven't played with many GM ecu's so not sure if that's possible?

Another option worth looking at are the Spartan units - again Roman has used one of these and I have a Spartan3 running an ADV sensor via CAN in my 86.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah I had no end of issues with 4.2 or 4.9 bosch sensors blowing up. 
The quickest I had one shit itself was about 2 days. Some lasted a week or 2. was heart (and wallet) breaking. 
As Stu says, most of the fault was having the sensor blazing hot (like, you have turned the ignition key on, so the wideband heats up) while the motor is dead cold.
I think where I lived at the time (Titirangi) was very cold and very humid, so lots of condensation in the exhaust. 
However, once I put a delayed start on it. Life was good. But sensors would still eventually crap themselves. 
Have since gone to the Spartan 3 and using the LSU-ADV sensor. Not only is it crazy fast to respond, but they're comparatively invincible sensors. As they were designed from the start to be cold start compatible for OEM use. 

I heard a good idea, which is to have a relay that runs from your oil pressure light. So the sensor only starts heating up once the oil light goes out. 
That way you're not consuming an output of your ECU and you dont need to worry about manual switching or whatever. 



 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Roman said:

Yeah I had no end of issues with 4.2 or 4.9 bosch sensors blowing up. 
The quickest I had one shit itself was about 2 days. Some lasted a week or 2. was heart (and wallet) breaking. 
As Stu says, most of the fault was having the sensor blazing hot (like, you have turned the ignition key on, so the wideband heats up) while the motor is dead cold.
I think where I lived at the time (Titirangi) was very cold and very humid, so lots of condensation in the exhaust. 
However, once I put a delayed start on it. Life was good. But sensors would still eventually crap themselves. 
Have since gone to the Spartan 3 and using the LSU-ADV sensor. Not only is it crazy fast to respond, but they're comparatively invincible sensors. As they were designed from the start to be cold start compatible for OEM use. 

I heard a good idea, which is to have a relay that runs from your oil pressure light. So the sensor only starts heating up once the oil light goes out. 
That way you're not consuming an output of your ECU and you dont need to worry about manual switching or whatever. 



 

@Stu I'm kind of reluctant to to fit something with a big ghastly led gauge that lights up the cabin. I liked the innovate SCG-1 because it's the an oled screen and does quite a lot for a single extra device in the cabin. I'd probably fit in glovebox anyway. I would use a wideband controller and laptop but for trouble shooting it might be nice to still have a screen giving me data independent of the ecu.

Breaking new ground for myself going oem ecu. There is a calibration you can upload to scale the wideband so data logging can be read with rest if information. I'm using Tunerpro to edit calibration files etc which I think I have about 60% got my head around have gone for a very well documented setup. 

I've tried not to use garbage for this build there's really good stuff but some proven cheaper products too. Hopefully that all works out for me. Guys in ozzy are getting solid results where the ecotec plus turbo thing has been around a while and surviving.

In short novice! Will probably set fire to my laptop at the track with a few clicks and send rods into sump.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah I wouldn't bother with a full stand alone setup, was just using it as an example that the Innovate stuff is pretty good in my experience.

With everything you will always hear stories to the contrary and often those stories are spoken louder than the guys who have good results.

Ive also used LC1's and 2's which have no screen and feed direct to an ecu, but it is nice to be able to visually check every now and then when you are full send.

Have been following your build for a while and definitely keen to see some smokey 11's at the drags one day - keep up the good work.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking in to the innovate stuff realised its american $ most likely so the setup i was looking at was getting to be around NZD$650 then shipping.

The spartan 3 can that do 0-5v output? i see it does CAN i'm not quite there with my skill set trying to integrate into the stock network i'd likely fuck that up or spend an inordinate amount of time and money learning how.  

sound reasonably priced. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did a roadie to Taupo to collect this gear off a young fella who's mum and dad talked him into buying a turbo falcon instead of turboing his commodore..... holy shit some gear here!

Big ass new intercooler, stainless steam pipe manifold with a hefty T3/T4 turbo on it wastegate and all the 3" intercooler plumbing.

A modified sump as well all in all really happy should speed things along project wise. Now to get the car a wof before i start fitting stuff so I can spend year getting it ready for a cert.

IMG_20230805_203428_(1080_x_1080_pixel).jpg

IMG_20230805_203436_(1080_x_1080_pixel).jpg

IMG_20230805_203443_(1080_x_1080_pixel).jpg

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Evidence of someone with penis fingers having owned this setup everything is nice up until merge for the crossover pipe someone has cut it off with a grinder crooked as!

No big deal as I want my crossover pipe looping front of engine rather than under to make wastegate plumbing and ground clearance better.

Check this shit out :thumbleft:

IMG_20230806_120513_(1080_x_1080_pixel).jpg

IMG_20230806_120528_(1080_x_1080_pixel).jpg

  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Remembered I have an old engine laying around. 

Dummy up time for motivation! Turbo may get flipped over to drop it depending on bonnet clearance higher keeps heat away from ac system so we'll see once I take some engine bay measurements what I can get away with. Will jam wastegate somewhere very close to turbo.

Opposite side manifold is a stock cast unit off Passengers side so it faces forward and under power steering pump. I've cut all the egr shit off so it's nice and simple will weld on some steam pipe bends as needed to clear everything.

IMG_20230806_160437_(1080_x_1080_pixel).jpg

IMG_20230806_160451_(1080_x_1080_pixel).jpg

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

So this L67 im using as a dummy block has some scored bores an cracked heads the actual bottom end is in really good order. Think for proof of concept I'll pull pistons hone bores slap it back together with fresh rings ecotec heads and send it.

I'm over how long it's taking, final parts count I need exhaust tubing but mufflers are here and a blow off valve thats it! That'll get it up and running.

Lots of fab work to be done but im looking forward to that.

Christmas holidays should get stuff happening.

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

More sick days, and some motivation time to see where all this turbo stuff will sit in car.

Step one remove anything that wants to be in the same place, place turbo in hole break out ruler and take some measurements off dummy engine with manifold.

IMG_20230824_142226_(1080_x_1080_pixel).jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Step two see where the wastegate can live for the sake of servicing fuck it can just live right there! Both turbo and wastegate are 63mm so a blended tee got used the bend heads to the turbo gate off ass end of the bend.

Sits in a good spot plumbing back to downpipe will be very easy or straight out bonnet....

IMG_20230824_142245_(1080_x_1080_pixel).jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pull it off weld it together remembered I haven't done much tig in years! Realise I'm also actually sick and that's why I'm shaking like fuck.

Happy with todays progress. Till the mrs comes out and goes oh is the new engine in didn't take long......

IMG_20230824_142253_(1080_x_1080_pixel).jpg

IMG_20230824_142310_(1080_x_1080_pixel).jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Things to do next.  Actually fit both manifolds in car finalise placement and start building the crossover pipe around front of engine.

The dump pipes going to need to snake around air conditioning which is doable and AC plumbing has about 50mm of flex towards strut with little force needed to shift it (eg push with one finger) so will make a bracket to hold it there.

The crossover has to duck under the manifold and fit through a 100mm gap that has Air-conditioning radiator hoses and engine loom all around it. However it's like it was meant to be there.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...