Adoom Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 Build Thread: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/51322-adooms-1982-kp60-starvia/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 Really enjoyed reading about this thing. Nice fab work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 Shut yeah! Sohc CA turbs! Yea I would try spin the Cas by hand or with a drill without cranking to see what signals your getting. Done it before trying to sort a rfb Cas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dell'orto Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 Go the STARVIA! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 I touched this car once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 I'm sure your tie down to key via spanner idea worked great but what I would do it connect a wire to the starter solenoid and touch the other end to battery positive to crank to engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted January 21, 2016 Author Share Posted January 21, 2016 I'm sure your tie down to key via spanner idea worked great but what I would do it connect a wire to the starter solenoid and touch the other end to battery positive to crank to engine. The Link has an input from the ignition "start" position that needs to be live before it will do its thing, like make the sparkle plugs sparkle. Your idea would probably work on something with carbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 Well that's fancy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted January 21, 2016 Author Share Posted January 21, 2016 Well that's fancy. ALL THE FANCE!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 Must have broken them when undoing. They aren't down a deep hole on those heads. Easy to cock the socket over on the piss if you aren't watching. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 Yea, my bet is you broke them, I have done it before, maybe the rubber bit in your socket has come out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 How hot did you get it? All that grease and shit probably tightened up all the gaps in the bearings. Bit of heat should sort it out. Also. I have an rfb skyline that was freshly rebuilt. Was making 100psi cold idle and 60 hot idle. So don't worry about it. Maybe check the oil is pissing out of the cam bearings at idle to reassure yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted January 24, 2016 Author Share Posted January 24, 2016 How hot did you get it? All that grease and shit probably tightened up all the gaps in the bearings. Bit of heat should sort it out. Also. I have an rfb skyline that was freshly rebuilt. Was making 100psi cold idle and 60 hot idle. So don't worry about it. Maybe check the oil is pissing out of the cam bearings at idle to reassure yourself. I got it warm enough for the thermostat to open, maybe 3 or 4 times, then only running for a few minutes checking for leaks. How would I check the cam bearings are "pissing oil at idle"... All I can see through the filler hole is one lobe. I imagine running the engine with a cam cover off would make a bit of a mess? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1Gesus Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 Maybe confirm that your gauge is telling the truth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 Yeah good point. Check it with another gauge. Just put 1 bolt in a rocker cover and start it. Then undo it and lift off quickly to check. It's only a light flick of oil. The oil should be not so much 'pissing out' but lightly running out of each one. The oil feeds the head on the inlet cam side. So if you check the exhaust side you will know all the can journals are getting fed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 Actually 60psi at idle is sweet. That's 4 bar. I would be stoked with that. Might have been less when you first started it due to oil gallery's and filter full of air etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted January 24, 2016 Author Share Posted January 24, 2016 Actually 60psi at idle is sweet. That's 4 bar. I would be stoked with that. Might have been less when you first started it due to oil gallery's and filter full of air etc. The workshop manual says pressure at idle should be more like 20psi. And 50-60psi at 3000rpm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 How thick is your running in oil? Can have a big effect on pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 I'd be pretty happy if a car I was going to rape had 60 psi at idle. So like the tight clearances and run in oil might be to blame, but never forget about a faulty gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted January 26, 2016 Author Share Posted January 26, 2016 So I started it when I got home. I can actually see one of the exhaust cam bearings/caps through the filler hole and I can see oil coming out around the......journal? And there is plenty splashing around. So oil must be getting through the whole system. So I ran it till it was good and proper warm/hot. The oil pressures are now down to where the manual says they should be. I visited STM on my lunch break and booked it in on the 9th, I wanted to do the week before, because I am on leave, but they were full up. But I can drop it off the friday I am on leave. They will run the engine in on the dyno $$$ then do the dyno tune $$$$, then because it is not road legal and they cannot do the road tune part of the tune, they "pull it back" so it's "safe" and I can go sort out my cert, wof and rego. Then I bring it back so they can finish the road tune which is included in the dyno tune cost. I've yet to figure out how I will pick it up since I am at work. The trailer I had thought of borrowing is out of action because of brake problems. I guess I won't get away with just driving it home, it looks conspicuous with its multicoloured panels and rego sticker that says 2014. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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