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Nissan TD27 and QD32 Diesel Tech


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Looking at swapping out a TD27 turbo engine for a QD32 turbo. My understanding is all the QD32 turbos are known as a QD32ETi with an electronically controlled or partially controlled Diesel pump.

 

Hoping someone has performed this conversion or knows a little more than myself about it.

 

Can i swap the standard non electronically controlled pump off my TD27 turbo onto the QD32 turbo ?

Is it easier to use the QD32 pump wiring etc and leave it electronically controlled ?

Will i loose power from going with a TD27 standard pump ?

What is actually electronically controlled and/or how does the ETi part work ?

 

 

Cheers

 

 

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi

 

Yes, you can swap the QD32 Eti pump out with the manual TD27t pump. I have done two and they work well. You should not get a drop in power if you adjust the pump for increased fuel supply.

 

If you are adventurous you might consider replacing some of the TD27t IP components with the appropriate ones out of the Eti pump to achieve a more efficient mechanical pump. This I have done and the results were very good. This is DIY stuff, but you need some courage. :-)

 

The electronic part of the Eti IP performs the function of the control lever and advance. When it works properly it is a very efficient pump imho, but not streaks ahead of a fully mechanical pump.

 

Ciao 

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Since my first post I have purchased a non ETi QD32 from a 1999 Nissan Atlas.

It a non turbo version but I plan to turbo it as I have a couple of blown QD32ETi engines I can take the turbo manifolds off.

Still work in progress at this stage.

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Hi Guys,

I have four old 109 Landies and have Nissan QD32's in all of them.

I have just built another out of scrap and have a QD32 Turbo in it. 

A mate told me it was too sluggish because it only had a N/A injector pump in it.

Do I need a turbo pump?

Any ideas?

 

Cheers

Mike

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Turbo pumps will have an aneroid boost modulator which will increase the fuel volume as the boost pressure rises.

Without it you are just increasing the wind without an appropriate fuel adjustment.

You could get by without a boost compensator by cranking in a fuckload of fuel in to start with but then it will be super rich off boost and chooch heaps of black smoke.

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If you dont want to get the right pump then you can go the rough and ready mode.

Wind the full load adjustment screw in 1 full turn and go for a low speed, high load test to see if it improves things, then wind in another turn and test then another turn and test etc... until it starts chooching too much black smoke and then wind it back a turn.
 
2e83acfd-4602-4a4b-ae27-b08f7c234011_zps

 

 

If you are concerned at all about this method of adjustment being a bit too rough as guts for your needs then get an EGT gauge and use that to monitor your engine for excessive exhaust temp which will be a sure sign of killing the engine.

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Hi Guys,

I have four old 109 Landies and have Nissan QD32's in all of them.

I have just built another out of scrap and have a QD32 Turbo in it. 

A mate told me it was too sluggish because it only had a N/A injector pump in it.

Do I need a turbo pump?

Any ideas?

 

Cheers

Mike

Hi Mike

 

Know a chap in Kenya that also has the QD32 in his Series Landies....says he has clutch problems as the QDs eat the clutches. Do you have similar problems? Both my QD32Ti motors run auto boxes, one in a 110 Defender and the other in a P38 RR. I think QD32 is one of the best diesels from its era.....much better than Land Rover's 300Tdi IMHO. 

 

As k-trips says about the correct pump for a turbo, but...me thinks high EGT kills the turbo...not the engine, pse explain.

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but...me thinks high EGT kills the turbo...not the engine, pse explain.

It depends on if your high EGTs are the result of internal or external combustion.

High internal EGTs are a result of heaps of power being made but the engine is loaded up so is too slow to turn that energy into force and cannot be utilised so instead it is turned into heat.

High external EGTs are a result of diesel fuel still burning as it exits the motor because diesel is a notoriously slow burning fuel or sometimes it is unburnt diesel being ignited by a hot spot in the exhaust.

Internal is hard on engine components like pistons, blocks and heads and can be quickly catastrophic.

External is hard on exhaust valves and turbos, generally it fucks things a little slower but you can still junk them in a long slog up a big hill.

Neither type is all that good and it is hard to determine from just a gauge whether a high EGT is the result of an internal or external process but safe to say that it is a sure sign of bad shit happening.

My call is get an EGT gauge and keep it below 1200, preferably below 900.

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It depends on if your high EGTs are the result of internal or external combustion.

High internal EGTs are a result of heaps of power being made but the engine is loaded up so is too slow to turn that energy into force and cannot be utilised so instead it is turned into heat.

High external EGTs are a result of diesel fuel still burning as it exits the motor because diesel is a notoriously slow burning fuel or sometimes it is unburnt diesel being ignited by a hot spot in the exhaust.

Internal is hard on engine components like pistons, blocks and heads and can be quickly catastrophic.

External is hard on exhaust valves and turbos, generally it fucks things a little slower but you can still junk them in a long slog up a big hill.

Neither type is all that good and it is hard to determine from just a gauge whether a high EGT is the result of an internal or external process but safe to say that it is a sure sign of bad shit happening.

My call is get an EGT gauge and keep it below 1200, preferably below 900.

 

BS baffles brains....and my brain is starting to baffle  :shock: . I have never heard of internal and external EGTs, and neither of ISIS/IS until recently. Did you make this up? Please explain.

 

www.savvyanalysis.com/articles/understanding-cht-and-egt

 

My egt alarm is set at 720C, that is when I ease off the accelerator. Is your 1200 measured in Kelvin?

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EGT's are EGT's - the difference is where the source of the heat is. Maybe my terminology is less than perfect.

By internal I meant the source of the heat is created inside the combustion chamber and external meant the source of the heat is created outside the combustion chamber (namely - inside the exhaust port and downpipe) I think I adequately explained HOW those high EGT's are created in my post.

 

To me 720 is a fairly average EGT - if you want to make power then the by product is high EGT so I'm not afraid of them as long as my motor doesn't constantly sit in the high end of the spectrum..

 

900 would be my safe (soft) limit and 1200 is my absolute limit that I would rarely want to encounter and even then only for brief encounters. Much like I hate seeing the needle touch the red on my water temp gauge but it happens occasionally. 900c EGT is the equivalent of just above half way on the cooling temp gauge and I have no issues veering into that zone every now and then if I'm giving it a hard time.

 

However I have junked at least one diesel motor by running excessive boost and fuel so maybe I push the limit a bit hard. But by fuck it was a fun and fast car.

 

If you think I am talking bullshit then you don't have to listen to what I have to say nor do anything of what I say - you have a choice. 

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  • 6 years later...

Great information guys. I have a question what PSI is safe on a factory QD32T? 

I'm trying to get a bit more power and torque out of this QD32T I have it in a Nissan Patrol Y61. 

Cheers from Colombia South America 

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  • 10 months later...

High egt results from excessive air in the stoichiometry. Hot flame is oxidizing and burns the pistins OR the piston ring lands off of the pistins. They're made of aluminium alloy and have a low melting point. A 1200°c flame will destroy a piston in seconds. 700°C is fine since there is a degree of cooling occurring. Watching the flame or egt (same bloody thing) means you are seeing the affect of how much fuel is in the air your turbo is pumping in there. High temp tells you some bad stuff is happening you get off the throttle ,turbo spools down and temps drop cause there is Less air in the ratio between the fuel that pump is delivering to the injectors. Temps drop you nurse it home. Back to the tuner to get more fuel tapped in.

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Random comment on that... Had someone telling me my R2 mazda diesel with turbo added was overheating due to running too lean..... 

High EGT results from excessive fuel? I mean talking Diesel, not spark ign here....

I try keep the poor little 2.2 non crossflow under 550deg pre turbo most of the time, 550 to 600 for short time, and nothing over 630deg.  Has a solenoid that opens over 630 and bleeds off boost reference to the diaphram on the pump and causes fuel delivery to drop, and therefore EGT to drop.  

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  • 9 months later...
  • 6 months later...

Hey guys I'm currently doing a engine swap. My vehicle is a 1994 nissan datsun with a TD27Tmotor that's seized, the new motor is a QD32T, my issue is the old 27 motor had an older model alternator, which had a banjo bolt and a vacume line to the brake booster, the QD32 doesn't have anything for me to plug in the vacume line to give the brake booster pressure, I've been told the 32 has a vacume compressure I would plus it into to fix this issue. Where would that be? I've been told it's just below the 32's diesel pump, I had a look and when I unplugged that line. A small amount of black oil was in there, only a few drops nothing major. Would that be where I'll extend the vacume line to?

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Vacuum pump is under the injection pump by the looks of it, the pen is pointing at it

 

The vacuum pump looks similar to the one on the back of the alternator, it will have a fitting to attach your vacuum hose to

17270642781183684801832852664127.jpg

17270643510409101634966166316689.jpg

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