BlownCorona Posted November 2, 2015 Author Share Posted November 2, 2015 well you may have seen in my build thread that everything was going well with getting the trigger wheel/hall sensor made up and wasted spark setup installed. its all done now and as usual ive gone and quite sufficently confused myself with the settings required to read the trigger wheel at the right speed (cam speed) and output to the subaru coils (pretty sure i actually have this right thought) ive turned it over and it splutters and acts like poor timing, it hasnt been set yet so thats to be expected. but also the coil doesn't fire anywhere near as fast as id expect a wasted spark coil to fire so im pretty sure ive not got that setting right, any kick in the right directing would be awesome, im not turning up any solid advice on the internet but i think its got something to do with the '2nd trigger' box in igniton options / wheel decoder tab? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 Post up screen shots of your settings or email me your .msq cole_customs@vodafone.co.nz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 May have to zip it some emails dont like random files Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 2, 2015 Author Share Posted November 2, 2015 Will do now, hold up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 2, 2015 Author Share Posted November 2, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 Have you put a timing light on it while cranking to check trigger offset? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 2, 2015 Author Share Posted November 2, 2015 i have only had a short amount of time, bloody hard with only one person! but that is what i intend on doing the next time i get to the garage. however with the timing light is how i know/think its sparking too slowly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 OK you will need to set dual dizzy to yes as the ms1 assumes that your wheel is on the crank (so it thinks the motor is going half as fast as it actually is). Thats what I was saying about having a 24 tooth wheel with 2 mssing teeth 180 deg apart. You can set your trigger returns to 0's and use time based crank timing. Unless your absolutely sure of the wheel decoder settings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 And set wheel decoder routine to 024 style (works better with teeth count under 20 or something like that) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 2, 2015 Author Share Posted November 2, 2015 Sweet man will give all of the above a go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 6, 2015 Author Share Posted November 6, 2015 pretty sure i cooked my igniter since now i dont have spark what so ever. i noticed the igniter getting really hot, i fiddled with the dwell settings but never got it to stop doing that, tried to kill power before it got too hot, it was still doing that today even though no spark. had a look online and changed the 'spark inverted' to 'no' since i believe my coil fires when the signal goes to earth. igniter doesnt get hot anymore but still no spark. will go to pick a part after lunch and grab another igniter. does this sound like im on the right track? on a related note. earlier this week i did the settings changes you suggested downtrail, and i was getting alot more spark events more in keeping with a wasted spark setup. so im hoping it was just the igniter setting causing mental timing and heat issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 Im not sure about your ignitor but if its getting hot then itll probably fire The other way have a google about it. Your coils would be getting rather hot too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 7, 2015 Author Share Posted November 7, 2015 Coils stayed cold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 7, 2015 Author Share Posted November 7, 2015 new igniter. have spark again. though i also found out my timing light has stopped working (wont work on the daily) so unsure if the igniter was at fault. igniter still gets pretty warm, just takes alot longer with spark output non inverted. i dont know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 7, 2015 Author Share Posted November 7, 2015 have given up for the day. cant get anything other than a chuff or a huge backfire. got dads timing light, works on the daily, wont work on the corona, spark plug on earth terminal provides what looks like a healthy spark. igniter still gets warm. am unsure what the tooth logger is supposed to show but it seems kinda messy im at quite a loss as to what im meant to do from here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim13 Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 hi mate couple of ideas ; is your sensor too close or too far away giving it a confused reading ? have you timed the motor so tdc lines gap (in rotor) and sensor ? sounds like a base timing issue , and just to prove I am not always helpful , points & condensor issues seem easyer to fix ! cheers Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 7, 2015 Author Share Posted November 7, 2015 I had not thought about it being too close, didn't even know that could be an issue. I've had the engine cranking while slowly rotating the dizzy (sensor is mounted in thus moving the sensor In relation to rotor) with not much joy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim13 Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 too close can mean it reads the troughs as well as the peaks on the trigger wheel (can be an issue with abs) twisting while cranking is good if it is close , but it is worth finding tdc and lining up the trigger wheel gap and sensor , also just a thought as you are using distributor for sender you need to fire 4 times each rotation so wasted spark would be either zero and 180 (2 cyl at a time) or zero , 90 , 180 and 270 (4 at a time) is that all set in your base tune ? when you used points as a trigger that was 4 signals per disy rotation , earlier someone sugested doubling your input but depending on coils maybe quadrupling ? I could be overthinking this , computer based tuning is not somthing I have had much to do with . good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 7, 2015 Author Share Posted November 7, 2015 I have attempted static timing a few times and will continue to do so. I believe I have the spark settings right but that's only going off looking at the spark and listening to engine and it seems about the right amount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 Log looks normal whilst cranking theres a few extra random missing teeth recorded so gap may be too large should be 1.5 to 2mm max set motor to tdc and check where missing tooth is to calculate your offset and wheel decoder values. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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