d.p.n.s Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 morning all im wanting to update the rear end on a mk2 Cortina Im building i am also wanting to keep the rear seat and not cut up the shell. I was thinking of a set up like this. I was thinking of taking the lower arms to the leaf spring mounts and the upper arms from the diff head out to the inside of the chassis rails. and also make a whatts link and run coilover shocks. all input is welcome cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nd Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Looks good to me. Carry on! (Disclaimer, I only join metal with 60/40 solder) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anglia4 Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Thats a similar arrangement to a fox body mustang. It works, but its not ideal. Also I would be reluctant to do it with all rose joints, I think the upper arms need to have a bit of compliance to function well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Check with cert guy. I don't think they like you running arms off leaf spring mounts (Incorrect angle and such) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 I'm in the process of building such a system to bag my Mercury - triangulated 4-link. You don't need a watts link (it would possibly be a bad idea to add one) as the angled links handle the side-to-side location. I have used the front leaf spring mounts, so the lower arms are about 620mm center to center which should be long enough. This is a big car though, with long springs. They are set up to be about level at the expected ride height. Upper links are angled down at the front at ride height for packaging reasons (clearing the stock shock mounts) but I think this will be OK. There are rules in the HCTM about link sizing and so forth. I have used rubber bushes from the Mount Shop, just picked out something that I hoped will work. I have made my own adjustable ends using some all-thread (1" though) because the link size is big for a heavy car. You will probably be able to use something off-the-shelf for a Cortina. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 keep the top links parallel if you are going to run a watts or panhard. best only do a triangulated setup for packaging, ie cant fit a panhard or watts link. also be careful with the angles of the arms. they don't need to be out much to effect handling or straight line grip. having a range of holes at one end or the other for some adjustment, is a good idea. there was some decent info online about angles etc last time i looked 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted January 28, 2015 Author Share Posted January 28, 2015 I was going to mount the diff and leaf springs back in the original position and do the 2 top arms first and the do the 2 lower arms last..also was going to use rubber rod ends so there is some flex and adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 thoughts on bringing the top arms through the floor under the rear seat? as with nominal's merc, with good slam and upper arms running to the frame rails you could end up with links that are wack angled or too short. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 all input is welcomeI'll use that as permission to ask why you want to go to so much effort for only a mild advantage (if any at all), assuming it's a road car. The Hotchkiss rear end on those things is pretty good if your bushes are OK, and given that the car is so light (~900kgs), and that the chances of making everything worse with a home built four link is so high, I'd be inclined to freshen up the bushes with decent rubber ones, fit some good shocks, lower it to your preferred look, and then spend the $1k and two months you saved on drinking beer in the shade. /I know nothing about your car. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted January 28, 2015 Author Share Posted January 28, 2015 I'll use that as permission to ask why you want to go to so much effort for only a mild advantage (if any at all), assuming it's a road car.The Hotchkiss rear end on those things is pretty good if your bushes are OK, and given that the car is so light (~900kgs), and that the chances of making everything worse with a home built four link is so high, I'd be inclined to freshen up the bushes with decent rubber ones, fit some good shocks, lower it to your preferred look, and then spend the $1k and two months you saved on drinking beer in the shade./I know nothing about your car. ^ this is all true and what I like to call option B... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMAB Posted August 12, 2023 Share Posted August 12, 2023 On 27/01/2015 at 09:01, d.p.n.s said: morning all im wanting to update the rear end on a mk2 Cortina Im building i am also wanting to keep the rear seat and not cut up the shell. I was thinking of a set up like this. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/pq0IyL.jpg I was thinking of taking the lower arms to the leaf spring mounts and the upper arms from the diff head out to the inside of the chassis rails. and also make a whatts link and run coilover shocks. all input is welcome cheers Hi, I see this was 8 years ago. Did you go through with this conversion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted August 24, 2023 Author Share Posted August 24, 2023 On 12/08/2023 at 14:15, PMAB said: Hi, I see this was 8 years ago. Did you go through with this conversion? Sold the car about 3 years ago. Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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